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Building the DML M2A1 Halftrack

the chassis

This stage deals with the assembly of the chassis, and it’s here that clean-up really pays dividends. It’s also here that you’ll have to make the decision of which version you’re going to want to build, the M2 or the M2A1, since there is a small part to be removed from the transmission cover where the power take-off for the winch goes in. One of the most onerous tasks I’ve always found in modelling is cleaning up leaf springs. However, the ones in my kit required no more than a wipe with the scalpel blade, each half of the mould being lined up perfectly!

Stage five shows the installation of all the sub assemblies so far being fitted to the chassis. It’s also the start of where the instructions begin to get a little complicated. Part C13 is the poser take-off for the afore-mentioned winch, so if you’ve decided to make the basic M2, then don’t fit this. There is an two-part insert, which clearly shows the front bracket assembly for both of the two versions, so it’s difficult to get mixed up, as Dragon have tried there best to clearly show us the way! The small nearly-triangular bolted strengthening plates at either end of the front bracket is supplied as photo etch, and there is no styrene alternative supplied so be careful with these! It will also pay you, should you be building the M2, to assemble parts C1 & C2 earlier and have them prepared, because there’ll be a central seam to remove which is unavoidable.

In stage 6 we get to fit those lovely tracks! Each track is split longitudinally, and is moulded on one of the sprues. It sounds odd to manufacture the sprues this way, but all I can say is that it really works! Remember, these tracks on the real vehicle weren’t metal. They were rubber with an internal strengthening structure of wire, and they were ‘live’ in that they were tensioned and not subject to track ‘sag’, so there’s no real reason to have them made from individual links or vinyl. The only problem I can see from this approach is that some people will obviously need to animate the track to show the vehicle going over an obstacle in a diorama, but I’m sure this is already in hand from the aftermarket sector, and it shouldn’t be too long before we see a replacement set of tracks on the market.

Once you have each track assembled, you’ll need to manipulate it over the road wheels, and the easiest way to do this is to have the drive sprocket and idlers inserted into the tracks, and then the whole assembly can be inserted into place. If you’re going to spray-paint the vehicle, then this step can be completed now, however, if you use a brush for painting, it’s probably best to leave the whole running gear assembly separate for easier painting.