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Pz.Kpfw.IV Ausf H

Introduction

I know most people like to start their articles with a bit of history about the subject. I took up armor less than a year ago so all of you probably know more about the subject than I do. I am learning but please bear with me if I get the name of a part or two wrong. I always try to push myself with each build to try something new whether it’s a new technique or even just something more complex. Maybe that’s why I am so taken with armor lately, everything I do is new. I have used lots of PE detail sets for both aircraft and armor but the PE shurtzen & detail set used here was a real test of my patience. The only other AM upgrade is Cavalier set CV109 made for the Tamiya kit of the Pz.Kpfw.IV Ausf H

The Build

Construction of the kit was straight forward with no real fit issues. There were large openings under the fenders on either side of the hull that needed to be blanked off. Some ejector pin marks needed attention at the same time. I did have an issue with the Cavalier zimmerit. The cast replacement parts, which are kits parts with zim added and re-cast in resin, were drop in replacements with perfect fit. One of the idler axle molds did not fill completely but it was an easy task to cut off the plastic axle to glue in its place.

The problem I had with the sheet of zim panels was having used this product several times the panels have been perfect fits every time. When I cut out the panel for the front upper deck the piece was too big in both dimensions. It was not possible to trim and of the hatches out to use since nothing lined up. I ended using a sheet of their generic zim and cut the pieces to fit. A few of the other panels were a tad wide or long but they were able to be trimmed and used. I contacted Darren Montgomery from Cavalier and he said the sometimes if the sheet is removed from the mold too soon it might stretch. Ha ran some tests molds and he said they all fit and that maybe mine was a one off. If you have that set compare the panels before you cut them out.

The PE shurtzen was, as I mentioned earlier, a real test of my patience. The bends for all the brackets etc were not that complicated but once glued on they are extremely delicate and I lost count of how many times I had to re-glue all of them. I also figured it is time to learn how to solder this stuff since I want it to be as strong as possible. That had a learning curve all its own. Four hands would have made lining up the turret skirts a lot easier too.

While glue and paint dried I busied myself with the fiddly bits that are all over armor. Not being happy with the way the tools looked after removing the molded on clasps I ended scratch building some of them. The tow cable n the kit is string that glues into slots on the cable ends. I cut off the cable part and attached that to a short piece of aluminum tubing that was chucked in a Dremel and tapered at the end. The photo shows some AM cable but it was too stiff to get around the pins on the rear so I used Bill Plunk’s idea of embroidery robe that I stiffened with paint.

I had an extra set of DML Magic Tracks (MT) that I planned to use since I had never used rubber band tracks before and had it in my head they wouldn’t look good. I noted the kit racks had solid guide horns and the MT are open. I decided to use the rubber band tracks. Since the extra track would be right up front the solid horns were cut off the kits extra track and glued to the MT because they looked better with the oval part at the sides being molded open instead of solid. Turns out I was wrong about rubber band tracks. I found the tracks very easy to use. They glued up fine, took all the same finishing I do for weathering. I darkened some thin brass rod with Blacken-It then glued them into holes I drilled into the hull for the sag between the return rollers. Even without the shurtzen, you can’t see the pins. I was very pleased with the way they turned out.