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M16 Multiple Gun Motor Carriage Part One

Chassis, Drivetrain, Wheels, and Tracks
Dragon Models, whose kits I have so far built several of, is a powerhouse of modeling technology and clean molding in polystyrene. This kit was no exception. With very minimal work (a little mold seam smoothing) all parts come clean and are ready to glue together.

The chassis and engine in this build are not going to be seen much at all, so I’m not putting a huge amount of detailing into them. The vehicle I am going to represent will be in a diorama depicting an M16 engaging ground pillboxes in Europe circa 1944, and as such a good bit of dirt, mud and grunge will be all up in the works underneath; not much point in seeing accurate brake lines or cables under those circumstances. The engine compartment is closed, so no detailing of the engine will be bothered with. Building of the basic chassis and engine, adding the transmission, park brake, radiator, drive shaft, rear drive axle assembly, front leaf springs and front axle: all of these components cut off cleanly, mold seams smoothed easily, and fitted in place with a bit of Testors trusty orange tube plastic model cement, which I use religiously for all the large plastic parts due to its formula, which fuses the plastic together for a high strength bond.

I tend to paint as I go along, and then blend overall with my airbrush after the assembly is together. This way I’m sure I get into places which would be difficult after assembly. Since the standard overall US Army color for all vehicles is Army Olive Drab, everything gets this, everywhere. After drying, I come back with the brush and get details like rubber boots, springs, and some things I feel need detail. I find Testors Model Master paints to be a great choice and use them almost exclusively. The chassis is getting Olive Drab overall, with details in Flat Black, Rust, and even a bit of Steel. The radiator got some drybrushing with Copper to highlight the fins of the core, which would be a bit visible through open radiator armor louvers.

A bit about the front tires. Some level of controversy has spun around the Dragon decision to sculpt a flat spot and slight bulge where the tires meet the road or ground. Some say this is completely wrong. Well, I own a US Army truck, an M35A2 2-1/2 ton cargo truck. My official military manual tells me to DEFLATE my tires for soft ground, mud, and snow operations, down as low as 3 to 5 psi. My truck weighs 10,000 lbs empty, and it bulges the front tires a bit at those pressures. The armored M16 is a good deal heavier and would certainly bulge its tires if deflated for soft ground operations. I feel Dragon made a good decision in adding this detail, it adds life and realism to the model and works just fine.

It was common to see tire chains installed on US halftracks’ front tires, and this model will also represent this common option, but I must advise caution. There are some resin front wheels from Tank Workshop, sold as US halftrack wheels with tire chains, said to be for the Dragon kits. I have included a picture of these. Well, no, they’re not the correct size. They are the correct size for the MRC/Tamiya halftracks, but they are too small for the Dragon kit.

So my halftrack will need to have tire chain sets made especially for it, by hand, using the closest chain I can find to the correct scale size. That’s another episode…

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About the Author

About Gary Roberts (WARCLOUD)
FROM: JIHOCESKY KRAJ, CZECH REPUBLIC

I am one of the fortunate ones who has been gifted all my life with the Charm of Making..I am professionally an Artist / Illustrator at this stage of my life, and am or have been a Musician, Commercial Artist, Movie Effects Tech, Set builder, Mechanic, Machinist, Motorcycle Racer and Builder, and ev...


Comments

Very nicely done! I like it! I do think it's a bit comical for there to be a controversy on the bulge issue for the front tires. Ask anyone who has been in the tire or automotive industry and they will agree that there will be a sidewall budge present ... especially if those pressures have been dropped. The vehicle weight alone will cause this too. So, the call shouldn't be made by a group of modelers, just ask your local repair shop for the answer. I have spent over 20 years in that field and know the answer as well. ~ Jeff
APR 14, 2012 - 12:44 AM
I thoroughly enjoyed reading through this one Gary, can't wait to see what's in store next
APR 14, 2012 - 01:39 PM
Hi Gary, really interesting subject, and very detailed infos, I will wait for the next parts. Rgeading your issue with the "overweathered" vehicles, I think it is just the question of approach. From the 100% replication of a vehicle, where every bolt is in position, to the artistic fantasies of Jean Bernard Andre, I think everything is acceptable, as far it is tell something about you and not just a repeat of a lesson. Those "madmaxed" Stug III-s and Tigers imho tell about the hopeless and sadness of war (yes you are right, in a bit surreal way), while the accurate reproduction tells about the desire of perfection, which is also an appreciated feature of a man. Cheers, Istvan
APR 17, 2012 - 08:46 PM
Thanks to everyone on your positive feedback on this project. Thanks to James Bella for giving me the opportunity to display my madness in public among my fellow madmen..as for "overweathering"..the idea of scale modelling as Artistic Expressionism...this is a concept indeed. I had not remotely considered this. I have seen some models which are so overdone, so chipped, so rusted, so worn, that they really do fit my description of 100 years sitting in acid rain. But do you think this was done in some sense of artistic expression of the bleak nature of war? Hmm...I have a philosophical concept to ponder now. I just assumed these guys were simply incurable show-offs with their advanced finishing techniques. It's way hard to do that realistic chipped paint rust and extreme wear and filth on the level these guys achieve, it's a high art. Expressionistic? I'll think on this. Thank you for that new perspective.
APR 20, 2012 - 05:01 AM
Thanks for sharing the build. I'll be following it thru. I'm going to be building this Dragon kit very soon myself to provide air cover for my Bailey Bridge
MAY 06, 2012 - 10:06 PM
HEY!! I didn't die! My move to Europe got WAY more intense than I ever expected..the same old story..material, logistics, weather! No, I haven't abandoned this feature, I just got taken away by the huge operation Called Move To Czech Republic! Now that I'm HERE, and we have bought our cottage and have it set up to live in, I am hoping to unpack all of the modelling materials and kits (yes...I brought it ALL) and continue! Stay Tuned!!
JAN 14, 2013 - 09:38 PM
I'll be following this one with great interest! As for front tire sag on the M16, you bet they do. I've got four AA halftracks (real ones, an M15A1, two M16s and an M16A2) in the museum collection, one of which we operate on a regular basis. The front wheels always bulge. Warcloud, let me know if you need detail shots of anything in particular. Jon
JAN 24, 2013 - 01:25 AM
Sorry I didn't find this post sooner..there's no notification feature here I can find.. M16 halftrack issues right now on the scale model... The "tombstone" drum mags do not fit in the rear compartment corners. The 1/35 model magazines do seem to scale up correct size for the real 21" high mags, which means the rear armor body itself is likely...WRONG. What I need are the exact measurements in the 'track itself..floor to top edge of armor wall, with flap up and flap down..and an exact H-W-D on the tombstone mags. This is a huge issue, so data on this is GREATLY appreciated!
APR 30, 2013 - 10:24 PM
Yes, as I said, I am also a WW2 weapon collector and am among several vehicle collectors as friends..15,000lb. + vehicles will put a bulge in their tires, especially if one follows the TM on off road/mud-rain-snow operation.
APR 30, 2013 - 10:26 PM