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Panzerhaubitze 2000 build

Rear Hull

This area of the model takes three stages to complete, and other than a difference of opinion between me and Meng as to the sequence of events, this is a fairly basic area with regards to modelling skills. This does of course depend on any improvements you may decide to make.

Step 6 covers assembly of the rear hull. This moulding is not up to the standard I have come to expect of Meng; I should make clear that the portion of the component that will be visible is fine, but the other side is very untidy with large moulding plugs that have not been cleanly removed. As I said, no issues as regards the finished model, but it does concern me when a company lets their high standards slip. The instructions direct you to assemble the whole of the rear hull before adding it to the model, but unless you have dainty fingers I would ignore this advice and attach it to the model after adding part D41 and D8. These two, specifically D41, must be added prior to attachment in order that the rear hull plate is in the correct position. The bars on the rear hull are used, it would seem from reference pictures, for holding a tarpaulin or similar, and the kit parts are fair but would look better if replaced with shaped wire. This option was made easy for me as one of the frames broke as I removed it from the sprue, so I replaced it with 0.5mm wire, which while smaller than the kit frame, I feel is a more realistic diameter than can be achieved in plastic. I am disappointed to see the handle moulded in place, it would have looked better as a separate part. There is a light cluster to be added here, and so you will need to decide how to approach this.

It is step 7 where the instructions tell you to add the rear hull to the main hull. You can do that at this stage if preferred, but there is the risk of easily breaking or knocking some details off, hence my recommendation to do it in the previous stage, prior to the addition of the delicate parts. You also add a brace to the hull and a support for the upper hull; make sure you this part is located fully home before adhesive is used. The small parts attached at this stage can be glued from the inside, making a clean attachment easy.

Step 8 finishes this area off with the addition of the rear steps, tow hitches and door mechanism. The tow hitches locate very well and no issues were encountered. I did take a few attempts to get the steps to sit correctly, but it was more an issue with not having the daintiest of fingers rather than a weakness of the model. The door mechanisms, which I believe are for securing the doors in an open position, were a tricky fit: the locators are well placed but the fit is tight.

Upper Hull

This area of the model is tackled between stages 9 to 13 for the most part. One thing I do not like about this part is that you are instructed to assemble the entire upper hull but not to install it until stage 15; I feel that this put the finer parts that you add at risk of damage or even loss unless extreme care is taken.

Step 9 covers the addition of the on board tools. The tools have moulded on clamps for the most part, but these are reasonably good and once attached painting can be done by sliding a piece of paper under them as a mask. It is at this step that you add the engine grilles; I have to say that they are a very good fit and so are easy to place, and some thin CA glue added with a syringe needle will cleanly and firmly secure them. There are two very small photo etched parts to be attached to the left of the turret opening, and which have the potential to test not only your patience but also your eyesight. These two are dependent on which version of the Panzerhaubitze 2000 you decide to build.

Step 10 will also test your eyesight and how steady your hands are when it comes to the photo etched retaining straps for the track ice cleats. The attachment of these parts is not too difficult to actually apply, but the bending will be a pain, due to the very small area being bent. The rest of the parts added here, and even the rest of the photo etched parts, is straightforward and starts to give an impression of what your finished model will look like detail wise.