Here is the Sherman that I've been working on. I intend to whitewash it and set it in a Battle of the Bulge dio. I didn't go nuts on the weathering because I figured I t would be mostly obscured by the whitewash. This is the second tank I have ever done! All comments are welcome!







Happy modeling!

Hi Samuel;
I'm no expert on Shermans but I think it looks great. Can't wait to see the finished tank withj the whitewash.



Bob

Looking good so far.

Just one (and a bit) nit-pick(s):

The tool just inboard of the long crowbar is the helve for the pick-mattock and it's wood, not metal.

And i can't tell if you've painted the spare track blocks at the rear.

Keep us posted

David

Looks very nice. That's a good Tamiya kit, too.

Three things to point out beyond DMaynard's suggestions: 1) you might want to install the MG's ammo box and 2) it looks as if you've drybrushed silver/metallic colors onto the treads? This model is sporting T-48 rubber chevron tracks. They wouldn't show any metallic sheen on the rubber portions. 3) the cupola hatch interior would have been painted OD and not the white/grey color you seem to have. HTH

Good luck with your Sherman 105!

Thanks for the comments, guys. Keep 'em coming!

I did not paint the spare track blocks because the few books I have seem to indicate that they were frequently painted over with the OD. BTW I had forgotten to put the MG ammo box on before I took the pics.

As for the metallic color on the tracks: I drybrushed them with Earth Brown after painting them with glossy black. I started to run out of clear flat before I was quite finished, but I will give them another coat as I have not glued the ends of them together yet.

Thanks for the tips on the proper colors for the copula hatch and pick-mattock. I will change that.

And again, all comments are welcome!

Samuel

A very nice Sherman The inside of the commander's hatch would be OD like the outside

On the metal part of the tools You may wish to dull them down They look to shiny I use Humbrol gun metal paint for the metal parts of the tools

Hi Samuel,

Nice job so far.

On the tracks you want the rubber to look more greyish than black unless your showing the tank as brand new. Look at any car tyre they are not really black once they have been on a few days. Mix a little matt black into matt grey until you get the colour you want and wash it in. Alternatively, dust the wit hMIG light dust which will help tone them down although if you have paintend them gloss back best start again. The end connectors would have a metalic look to them and some exposed steel.

Nice looking kit.

Cheers

Al

Well done, good work for only your second tank.. If you take on board what the others have said she should come up a treat under the whitewash.

Depending on how heavy you want to apply the whitewash here is an excellent method used by Phil Stutcinskas on his Pzr IV

https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/1143

Hair Lacquer technique

"The first step was the application of coat of hair lacquer over the now fully dried gloss coat. I applied a couple of thin coats of the hair lacquer drying each one off with a hairdryer. Next came the application of the white. I used Tamiya White XF-2 sprayed with an airbrush and allowed to dry for a few minutes. The white was then very simply removed with the use os a brush and some warm water. I dipped the brush in to water before removing most of the excess water with a cloth, so I was left with a moistened brush.
The brush was then gently rubbed onto the surface of the model. The white will start to lift as the water dissolves the underlying hair lacquer. (...) once I was happy with the amount of white removed the whole tank received another coat of gloss."


Excepts from the article on the Panzer IV build by Phil Stutciskas published in MMI of Feb of 2007. This text is for discussion purpose only.

Thanks again for the help.

I intend to use this article for the whitewash:
https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/904

In the article I posted above the author says that when applying the whitewash to the vertical surfaces you should always brush downward so as to make it look streaked. He says nothing about the flat areas such as the top of the turret, the engine deck, etc. What would I do there? Brush any direction?

Think about how the painter would approach the job in real life and where he would stand while he was doing it and work it that way.

David

i can't wait to see it finished Samuel ..... their is just something about armour finished in a winter whitewash .... i think the model stands out more

I think so too. Personally, my favorite models are those in winter dios with a whitewash.

BTW there is a campaign that was approved recently called White-Washed. It starts in October. If you think you're interested, then sign up. Only seven have so far.

here's a sample of what he means; the tool next to the turret on the side of the tank should be painted wood like seen on this model


other than that this looks very very good.

I painted the pick-mattock today. I'll try to get a picture up.

Thanks for the comments.

For your second tank it is a fantastic job. Frankly it's fantastic for any build! Enjoy the creative criticism's they help sharpen skills as well as help preserve history. Great job!
Happy modeling. Byrdman

Looking pretty good. Be sure to post photos of the whitewashed tank!

Keep up the good work, lok forward to the update.

Al

Well, I finally got around to adding the whitewash. It was a mix of artist's crayons and water that I smeared on with a cheap brush, then removed some of it with dampened cotton balls. My only complaint with this method was that the cotton balls tended to shred, leaving little filaments that had to be picked of with tweezers. Next is the mud and some light weathering.







All comments are welcome!

Maybe wear off more of the whitewash where the crew would have contacted the tank (hatch areas, hatch edges, corners of hull & turret, etc.) It's not consistent to have a spotty guntube whitewash while the edges of the hatches are solid white. HTH

Your whitewash looks great,it's always scary to apply that whitewash to a perfectly fine model,maybe make-up sponges will help you instead of using cotton balls.Just one question,would they have whitewashed their tools ?I don't speak from experience,just asking.

That's exactly what I thought. When I was weathering it I almost decided against a whitewash for that same reason.




I don't know for sure, but I would guess so. I don't think that they really cared where they applied it, in some cases they literally poured it over the tank.

Thanks for the comments.

I wore down the areas around the hatches, etc. Anything else I should do with the whitewash itself before I seal it to apply mud, rust, etc?

Thanks for the encouragement!

Hey guys,

Recently I applied the clear coat to my Sherman and followed it up with some weathering. The clear coat darkened the whitewash, exactly what I wanted!











I used Tamiya's weathering powders for the rust and dried mud. I still have to apply the accumulated mud on the undercarriage, though.

Any comments are welcome!

Well, I finally got around to adding the mud. I used real mud mixed with a little white glue.



Feel free to tell me what you think?