I would do a feature, but model still isn't perfect or even close to being so. There are some flaws I dont fix because they would drive me nuts and add another few months to the building process. Making asymmetrical wheel spacing and track alignment would be an example. I did spaced out torsion bars, but tracks still look as they are in the same plane. Also, as previously stated, I had some tremendous troubles painting it; base cammo alone was repainted 3 times! Shortly after that when I was going to spray gloss coat for oil was good old paasche died (Iwata gear is on its way). From then on, I was applying protective coats by...brush and over pigments; that's why there are some small streaks here and there.
Now let's review all the sets needed to put together a decent T-80UD
:
-Skif kit (all you really need from that kit is dimensionally correct lower hull)
-One of the SP Designs' sets depending on what version of the tank you wish to build (Don't let pictures all other members fool you, these sets are very accurate shape and detail-wise, surface imperfections are mostly due to tearing stress of mould rubber and are common to all resin set manufacturers)
-Eduard PE set (this set will allow you to quickly add up some delicate detail like GPS cover and engine nets, locks hinges, etc)
-New set of main wheels and sprockets from SP Designs (I used older set for my build, but it's advisable to get upgraded set because of all the detail and accurate rim)
-Gun barrel, unless you want to carve original log from the Skif kit
-Track set (there is simply no way to improve upon kit ones, even covering them in mud won't help)
-Antenna and its mount (see if you can find modelpoint set)
-heavy machine gun (I'm still waiting for my copy by Blast Models. It would be great if SP designs would release spare NSVT and KORD HMGs)
Apart from that, there was fair amount of scratch building involved.