Kind of a newbie question.
So why would you choose a dry transfer over wet? I have only ever used wet transfers.

thanks,
GG

Dry transfers are nice because they give a "painted on" look with minimal effort. They tend to very thin and don't require gloss coating the model. Well done decals will give the same effect when applied over a gloss coat and snugged down with Solvaset, Microset, etc.

They can be tricky to apply, however. You've basically got one shot to get it located and applied properly.

- Frank

Another reason is that Archer has so many armor related offerings. Another plus about their thinness is that they are easier to weather over without worrying about the "lip" of the wet decal.

Have you ever looked at Archer's stuff? http://archertransfers.com/

I just got an order in yesterday and I'm pumped!

Actually Archer is the reason I am asking, because I am very interested in their 3rd armored division transfers. Since I have never used the dry transfers I was a little concerned about how I would use them. Mainly because it appears that you have to 'rub" the transfer on, and I wonder how easy or hard it will be to position it properly on a 1/35 scale infantry figure arm.

I guess it just comes to what i am familair with.

In your experience, when putting infantry patches on would you prefer wet or dry transfers?

Thanks for the help!
GG

With Archer's stuff, you have the option of rubbing the dry transfer onto clear decal paper and then using it like the normal waterslide decals. Try the dry rub on directly first. If it gets too frustrating, break out some decals with excess film.

Either way, you won't lose because the detail on the transfers is great.

I used one on a tanker fig. I used a 3rd Armored Div triangle patch. I think it took two tries. I also added sergeant's stripes on the figure.

Granting all of the above about how nice they look and their thinness, I have never had good luck with them. Frankly, I refuse to use them directly on a model. I find it a complete mystery how to apply these things and get them to a) line up, b) lay down on an irregular surface without cracking or blistering, or c) adhere to the surface completely in one application. My only luck has been to apply the admittely goreous decals to blank Microscale (superscale) clear film, trim close to the decal and then apply "normally". Not once, ever, have I been able to get the bloody things to work, be they the ancient Lettraset marking (back when they were new and fresh, no less), to Woody's fine efforts, to the various incarnations in between. Never. I've given up and now only apply them on nice flat surfaces to decal film and am then very happy with the results.

Ya gotta pick your hill to die on, and this ain't it for me. :-)

Paul

Dang, Paul. Rough day at the office? We need another brew in Ohio (or Indiana next year).

I use them all the time. They are my preferred way of marking things.

I cut them out with a bit of extra around, then position with an 11 Exacto blade point. Once in position, I use a wooden toothpick (with the end slightly rounded with sandpaper) to burnish. For numbers, it helps to put them on a piece of Scotch tape to line them up and space them correctly, then apply the whole thing at once and be careful when burnishing not to knock things out of alignment. It takes a bit of planning.

The great thing about dry transfers is that you can put them on over flat paint. No gloss coat, no setting solutions, and flat coat is optional (sometimes).

Archer Fine Transfers are top quality items. I highly recommend getting any of thier products. However, like all dry transfers, the flatter the surface, the easier it is to burnish down the transfer. For division patches on the folds of a uniform it's easier to apply the transfer to clear decal film and use the wet method with Micro-Sol.