Hi again,
This is the latest build that I've started this week, Hobbybosses Stridsvagn 122. Saw it in my LHS and knew I had to have it. It's a very good kit for the money and comes complete with etch. There are a few fit issues but nothing that can't be sorted though reference material is a little lacking. Some of the parts on the pics are dry fitted if they look a little"off".
Anyway here's the first few pics of the build so far, hope you like it. Just a quick question to anyone who know's, I'm going to use Tamiya XF4, XF26 and XF69 to paint it as per Echelon decal plans, however the XF4 seems very bright, though on looking on some reference pics the paint does seem very bright. Plus with a wash on it, it might tone down a little. if anyone knows the correct paint please let me know.

Looks like anice, clean build. It will be nice to see it with some paint.

Erik

Woow. Nice build man
Crisp and clean, just the way i like it.
One of my cusines was a driver of a Stridsvagn 122 during his conscription in the northern part of Sweden ( above the arctic circle i might add) I bet he has some pics on his tank, Oden, lying around somewhere.

Propper armour = Swedish armour
/

Christian

Thanks for the replies guys, Christian if you could get me some pics I'd be very grateful. Best ones so far I've found are on Prime Portal but there's only a few. Any offers on the paint question...anyone...Bueller!!

Max

Hi Max

I'm making the very same kit.

There is a problem we have both fallen for! That rear right hand side raised sponson box (an APU) is right for the 2A5DK but wrong for the Strv 122 AAArgh! Hobby Boss led us up the garden path!

It should have the normal flush rear on the right. Look at the PlasticWarfare website of Swedish modellers

Andrew

Holy Cow!!
Yup you're right, but I think all is not lost. I reckon I can sand the raised portion down till its flush with the rest of the engine decks then peice it in with plastic card. Will be a careful job with an enormous scope for making a complete cows backside out of it but I reckon it can be done. Better that than try and pry the raised portion back off. Will post some pics when it's done!
Until then a few more pics. Tidied up the turret bin area and put the spare links on correctly and also cut a slot in the rear mudguards for when they're pinned up.

Since you have already made one mistake I'll try to save you from doing another one.
The instructions tells you to put identical covers to the rear of both the loaders and the TC hatch.
That cover should only be behind the loaders hatch.
The cover for the TC hatch is attached in front of the hatch and are rolled up in the kit.

If you need images I have some on my site.

/Thord
www.the-swede.com

I´ll give him a ring. Although he´s got no pics of the inside compartments due to regulations.

/
Christian

There's no regulations against taking photos inside the strv 122, even thou some young 2 Lt:s at P4 regiment seems to think so.
I have over 1000 images of the strv 122 on my hard drive, most of them my own. Including a number of internal shots.

/Thord

Ive built this kit it wasn't very good sprue connections where massive.
Plenty of flash to spare.
parts molded poorly.
fit was average.
tracks need replacing.
And the turret sat on an angle making it touch the grills on the back of the tank.
(looks like you have that problem two.

But i must say that with a little care the kit can turn out all right.

Edit: And the instructions where missing details here and there.

Thanks for the replies guys. To tell you the truth I've not had any problems with flash on any of the parts though as Tank Trap says there are a few fit issues and the instructions aren't the best. I don't class myself as a rivet counter and so I tend to just enjoy the build and try to get around any problems because you get problems with any kit irrespective of the manufacturer. So long as I'm happy with the end result thats good enough for me.
I did notice the difference in the hatch covers and will be replacing the loaders cover with lead foil though I think I'll leave the comanders as is, depends how I feel! Thanks for the link to your site Swede, there's a few good shots of the tools on the rear right of the engine deck. These were something I was having problems with and now I can scratch them now I know what is carried and where. By the way I served 3 tours in Bosnia ('93/94 '96 and '98/99) and worked with the Swedish and Danes in Doboj.
Anyway here's the modified rear deck with a hatch scribed onto it.

Looks good even without the often recommended Tamiya hull.

Isn't there a rectangular piece missing that sits over the triangle that is part of the engine deck lifting mechanism?

Paul

Yes, there should be a small rectangular box mounted on that triangle.

Looking good Max! I was the same as you-saw it and had to have it, at £15.00 its pretty cheap to for a big model. Its not 100% accurate but is fun to paint. Heres a few pics of mine that may help with the painting, I just built it OOTB as I was only interested in trying out the camo scheme.

There is indeed restrictions on taking pictures of military objects.

According to the The Swedish Law ( 1990:217) and Förordning (1990:1334), on access to and/or taking pictures on any "protected obejcts" , important compounds or "object important to the society" (skydd för samhällsviktiga anläggningar / objekt- hänv.t länsstyrelsen enl. skyddslagen resp. skyddsförordningen).

http://www.riksdagen.se/webbnav/index.aspx?nid=3322&rm=1996/97&bet=F%C3%B6U2

Military vehicles, along whit, power plants, purification plants, inside radio towers, bunkers, millitary installations and areas etc. is actually in the category of "protected object" and " object important to society". ( For obvious reasons) My dad who was an officer in the Costal Artillery in Gothenburg was denied to take any photos what so ever.
Even on " military day" ( Försvarets dag) and "regemental day" ( regementets dag) where vehicles are on display to the pubilc, the hatches are still closed so no one can get a look inside the 122.
But no one is going arrest you Thord! ..........................at least i hope so


Looking good there Max...keep it up


Rob...that´s the best Strv 122 camo i´ve seen so far. Brillitant!

No, you are wrong.
Last year and the year before that I visited the open day in Skövde and there was no closed vehicles.
People was allowed to climb up on, and into the vehicles and also allowed to take pictures at will.
Both of vehicles outside and inside the mechanichs school where you could see vehicles with their turrets removed etc.

As for the coastal defence fortifications your father was denied to take pictures of it's another thing.
A stationary fortification is something different than a vehicle.

/Thord
*Former officer Swedish defence forces.*

Well these are the last couple of pics before I start painting. Have added the tools on the rear right of the decks and put on the hinges for the bins on the vehicle side. Made the tow ropes and tried them, all that I think needs doing now is to put on the tow rope brackets and then the primer.

Max

About time I posted an update so here it is. Been busy with work lately so not had the chance to do much, anyway here is the 122 after being primed and painted. I've used Tamiya XF69, XF26 and XF 4 darkened with a little olive drab. I've not touched it up yet where there has been overspray but I'm happy with how it's come out. Although it looks pretty garishly coloured now it should darken down after washes, filters and waethering. Any tips or criticisms please fire away.

Max

Good job on the paint. It's a heck of a masking chore.

The modified XF-4 is a closer match than the recommended Humbrol 120 that I used on the HCKW conversion.

The Echelon decals will look nice on it.

Paul

Looks good.
Actually there's overspray on the real vehicles so don't tidy up too much.

/Thord

That is one handsome tank. The splinter camo turned out to be real eye popper. I can't wait to build the Canadian version. With slat armor of course.

Just a small update because as usual work has been hectic and not much free time. Anyway, most of the detail painting has been done only a few small things to do now and then the weathering. Have done the front and rear lights and tools on the decks. Replaced the loaders hatch cover with lead foil as the kit part looked too "straight" if thats the right term. Lots of little items done as well.
Just have a small question, what would be the best way to apply a filter. It's too bright at the moment and so I want to tone the colours down and tie it all together. Would an all over single colour filter work or use multi oil colours to adjust the tone a bit. First time trying it so I need the help. I then plan to do a pin wash to bring out the details more.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Max

Great job on that camo, I see you had picked the colours and contours of the paint quite well.

Looking forward to get the Leo 2A4, really seems that Hobby Boss kits are good value for money.

Cheers

Nice build there tyhat camo is stunning.

You could do a filter of yellow ocher, white and burnt sienna or a dark brown colour.
And brush it all downward.

The Hobbyboss kits are excellent value, it was only £16 for it and thats a lot of kit for that money.
TankTrap I take it you mean small blobs of the individual oil colours or an overall wash with the dark brown?

max