(This is my first post in these parts and I'm not quite sure which forum this should go in, so please bear with me!)
I last started putting a model together some 25 years ago. I recall really enjoying the model construction, even if I never got a finished model I actually liked the look of. Following on from those gluey fingers, smudged inch-think paint jobs and ripped decals, for 5 years or so I collected and painted fantasy role playing 25mm figures, once again enjoying the process but this time with far better results. I also dabbled a bit in dioramas, but only on the small scale.
Since those distant days my artistic tendencies have been somewhat on the back burner. I have been toying with the idea of picking up on modelling again for a couple of years, but only really started looking into it more seriously over the past couple of weeks. I'm planning on focusing on armour and troops, hopefully creating so dioramas to showcase the models. To kick-start myself into actually doing something about this, I've picked up a small kit (the Tamiya Willys Jeep model) and a bunch of paints and other supplies. Rather than just jump in with the kit, I'd like to take my time and try and properly prepare. I know my first couple of models won't be the best ever, but I think that if I take my time and try and anticipate any issues ahead of each step, the results won't be too shabby.
What I've been looking for is a 'Noobie model makers 101' tutorial. I haven't found that exactly, though I have found a wealth of information on these forum pages. I have a bunch of really basic questions I'm hoping someone can answer for me and help set me off in the right direction. Anyway, enough of the preamble! Here are my questions...
1) What is the best way to prepare the model before construction. I recall reading somewhere that I should wash the parts in soapy water with a soft brush and then rinse well. This is done to clear off excess chemicals from the moulding process. Is this correct, or is there more (or less!) that needs doing?
2) Following on from the clean, I think I need to check the model and remove any burr and file / sand off the seams. Is there anything else I should check at this point?
3) How much of the model should I leave on the sprues prior to construction? In my distant childhood I always remember twisting off all the parts with grubby impatient fingers before starting the model, but I now appreciate that it is best to leave many parts on attached so a) you don't lose or damage them and b) they become easier to paint. However, is there are hard and fast rule about when to (carefully) remove parts, or does every model and modeller have a different requirement?
4) Now that the kit is clean and ready, my understanding is that the kit parts should be primed to allow better paint adherence and finish. I don't have an airbrush, so what is the best colour and technique for priming, based on the fact I'll be predominately using Tamiya acrylics? I was thinking of brushing a thinned medium grey over all parts, but that is just a guess rather than a decision based on any experience. Should I chose a lighter colour (i.e. matt white) or is neutral grey OK? Is an aerosol spay can OK, or will it cover too thickly?
5) OK, I'm cleaned, primed and ready to go! 'All' I need to do now is stick the kit parts together... I have some new Humbrol liquid poly. I'm pretty sure that this should be fine for pure plastic kits, but are there other alternatives?
5) So in my haste, I've managed to bugger something up on the construction and I'm left with a gab that needs filling. I've used Milliput before, but that was some 20-odd years ago. Is there a preferred filler material these days that is a little easier going than the 2-part epoxy putty, or is Milliput still a standard material?
6) Right! the model has been built and you can hardly see the joins. There are still some parts on the sprues that need painting and attaching, but the model superstructure is there. So, painting... I have a bunch of new Tamiya acrylics I'm planning on using, but I keep thinking I should be using enamel paints. I have used both types in my old fantasy figure painting days, and ended up mostly on acrylic but using enamels for metal. Is it a matter of personal preference, or does one type give better results? I'm aware that acrylic can be easier to clean and dilute, but it feels like enamels should be harder wearing. Also is it possible to 'mix and match' acrylic and enamel layers?
7) After many hours of toil the model is finished, but I want to varnish it to protect it as best as possible from the attentions of a curious wife and two inquisitive kids. What recommendations do you have for a final coat to seal the model and paintwork?
I know that is a bit of a wall of text, so thanks for your patience if you have read this far!
I look forward to your feedback,
Cheers,
I.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Hello... And a whole bunch of questions
Outerarm
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2007
KitMaker: 240 posts
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Joined: September 20, 2007
KitMaker: 240 posts
Armorama: 233 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 23, 2007 - 11:52 AM UTC
ericadeane
Michigan, United States
Joined: October 28, 2002
KitMaker: 4,021 posts
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Joined: October 28, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, September 23, 2007 - 01:44 PM UTC
May I suggest you obtain the Kalmbach Publishing book "How to build Realistic Tanks and Artillery".
It is a great beginner's advice book with clear text and photos. It explains tools and techniques. Best of luck to you
It is a great beginner's advice book with clear text and photos. It explains tools and techniques. Best of luck to you
GeraldOwens
Florida, United States
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 23, 2007 - 01:59 PM UTC
Wash first? If the model actually feels greasy, you should use some detergent (mainly a problem with eastern European kits). Enamels generally adhere without any special preparation to most mass market kits. Acrylics can be fussier, so a clean surface is more important. A greasy surface will repel a water-based paint.
Prime? If you want to. I never bother. Again, probably more important if you're trying to get acrylics to adhere to multimedia models with some metal parts.
Filler? Milliputt is okay if you want a nonshrinking filler that can be smoothed with a damp finger or rag, obviating the need for sanding. Lacquer based putties like Squadron Green or White or Tamiya Putty, have a solvent that will bite into the plastic's surface, offering good adhesion. You have to use a little too much though, to allow for shrinkage, and then sand it out. Gap filling superglue can be an amazing instant filler. First paint the area with superglue accelerator, then apply a drop of the glue, and it hardens instantly. However, you must sand it out immediately, as the glue becomes harder than the surrounding plastic after an hour or so.
Prime? If you want to. I never bother. Again, probably more important if you're trying to get acrylics to adhere to multimedia models with some metal parts.
Filler? Milliputt is okay if you want a nonshrinking filler that can be smoothed with a damp finger or rag, obviating the need for sanding. Lacquer based putties like Squadron Green or White or Tamiya Putty, have a solvent that will bite into the plastic's surface, offering good adhesion. You have to use a little too much though, to allow for shrinkage, and then sand it out. Gap filling superglue can be an amazing instant filler. First paint the area with superglue accelerator, then apply a drop of the glue, and it hardens instantly. However, you must sand it out immediately, as the glue becomes harder than the surrounding plastic after an hour or so.
Posted: Sunday, September 23, 2007 - 04:21 PM UTC
Hi Ian,
Welcome to the site and back to the hobby. You'r outline is fine. Only suggestion I would make it to build and paint your kits as sub assemblies, especially as you painting by hand.
Remember that if you paint everything first you won't get such a strong bond and glue and paint don't mix well together. If you've over painted a part you want to glue just gentle scrape and expose the surface again.
Some things are better painted first like small footery items that you won't be able to get to properly when they are attatched others best built and then painted.
Taking the time to clean up the parts before you build is a must. Cut them off cleanly and remove any seems.
Re primer. If you've washed the kit then it's optional. a lot of people use grey car primer or the like. I tend to prime areas of the kit rather than the whole thing. Primer is ueful if you're doing paint chips.
You've chose a pretty good kit to get started again.
I prefer Tamiya water based paint over enamels but again that just my preference, I'll use enamels if they have the colour I want.
Milliput is useful for filling any gaps and worked wet doesn't need much of a clean up other than to wipe off the exccess.
Patience is the secret, I still have to stop myself rushing to build everythiing at once. Give you paints time to dry and don't be afraid to experiment if you're not happy with the result. Also plan ahead when you can and do a little research into the vehicle your building, not only should it make the build more enjoyable but it gives you time t think about how you want it to look. Ask questions if your not sure, there is a hugh amount of experience here on site and someone usually comes to you aid.
Above all have fun
Hope that helps.
Al
Welcome to the site and back to the hobby. You'r outline is fine. Only suggestion I would make it to build and paint your kits as sub assemblies, especially as you painting by hand.
Remember that if you paint everything first you won't get such a strong bond and glue and paint don't mix well together. If you've over painted a part you want to glue just gentle scrape and expose the surface again.
Some things are better painted first like small footery items that you won't be able to get to properly when they are attatched others best built and then painted.
Taking the time to clean up the parts before you build is a must. Cut them off cleanly and remove any seems.
Re primer. If you've washed the kit then it's optional. a lot of people use grey car primer or the like. I tend to prime areas of the kit rather than the whole thing. Primer is ueful if you're doing paint chips.
You've chose a pretty good kit to get started again.
I prefer Tamiya water based paint over enamels but again that just my preference, I'll use enamels if they have the colour I want.
Milliput is useful for filling any gaps and worked wet doesn't need much of a clean up other than to wipe off the exccess.
Patience is the secret, I still have to stop myself rushing to build everythiing at once. Give you paints time to dry and don't be afraid to experiment if you're not happy with the result. Also plan ahead when you can and do a little research into the vehicle your building, not only should it make the build more enjoyable but it gives you time t think about how you want it to look. Ask questions if your not sure, there is a hugh amount of experience here on site and someone usually comes to you aid.
Above all have fun
Hope that helps.
Al
f1matt
Manitoba, Canada
Joined: August 13, 2006
KitMaker: 1,021 posts
Armorama: 805 posts
Joined: August 13, 2006
KitMaker: 1,021 posts
Armorama: 805 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 23, 2007 - 04:32 PM UTC
A handy tool to have is a sprue cutter. Makes it a lot easier to remove delicate parts from the sprue. I have Tamiya's and I use it almost everyday.
exer
Dublin, Ireland
Joined: November 27, 2004
KitMaker: 6,048 posts
Armorama: 4,619 posts
Joined: November 27, 2004
KitMaker: 6,048 posts
Armorama: 4,619 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 23, 2007 - 07:14 PM UTC
Quoted Text
How much of the model should I leave on the sprues prior to construction?
Only cut parts off as you need them and then clean them up remove seams etc before gluing. that way you won't lose parts.
I wouldn't bother washing prior to construction. When the assembly is finished then wash it to remove the oils from your fingers.
Quoted Text
but I want to varnish it to protect it as best as possible from the attentions of a curious wife and two inquisitive kids.
Of course you can varnish it but the best way to protect your models from the wife and kids is if they touch the first kit then rant and roar and stamp and shout, threaten divorce, say you're going to leave them in the woods with the wolves and the bears and tI bet hey'll leave your models alone in future.
Outerarm
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2007
KitMaker: 240 posts
Armorama: 233 posts
Joined: September 20, 2007
KitMaker: 240 posts
Armorama: 233 posts
Posted: Monday, September 24, 2007 - 03:29 AM UTC
Thanks for the feedback -- some interesting things to think about there. I have to admit I'd surprised that you think priming is not necessary. I'll have a think about how I want to paint the base colours for the model and then decide what I'll do.
As this will be my first build, I think I'll blog it to get some input as I progress. Which of the forum areas would be best, or do people tend to use other sites?
Cheers,
Ian
As this will be my first build, I think I'll blog it to get some input as I progress. Which of the forum areas would be best, or do people tend to use other sites?
Cheers,
Ian
exer
Dublin, Ireland
Joined: November 27, 2004
KitMaker: 6,048 posts
Armorama: 4,619 posts
Joined: November 27, 2004
KitMaker: 6,048 posts
Armorama: 4,619 posts
Posted: Monday, September 24, 2007 - 04:15 AM UTC
Quoted Text
As this will be my first build, I think I'll blog it to get some input as I progress. Which of the forum areas would be best, or do people tend to use other sites?
Use this forum Armor/AFV (you can narrow it down to Softskins or Allied WW2 if you want) and just click on the blog button in your first post of the thread. I look forward to seeing your progress.