I like PE upgrades, but the CA glue I use is hard to place in small spaces. The result is the thin glue spreads out over the surface of the metal and leaves glue marks I have to sand or scrape away. Is there a thicker, more viscous CA glue that can go along a seam and not spread out like a liquid?

CA comes in three viscosities. It's obvious that you are using the "super-thin" which is watery -- setting in 3-4 seconds. The next up is "Medium" viscosity. I use this almost exclusively. It has the consistency of thick cream -- and sets in about 8-9 seconds. I squirt a little on a slip of aluminum foil or wax paper. Then I transfer the CA with a needle, bit of wire or old stretched sprue or an old #11 blade.

Lastly is the gel stuff or "Thick" viscosity. I think its working time is 12-15 seconds. I've never found a use for it honestly.

HTH

Suggestions for manufacturers? My runny stuff is Zap-A-Gap CA+.

hey,
I use a thick gel like super glue for almost all of my CA needs,takes just the smallest amount,and it my squish out abit around the edges of the brass ,and theirs plenty of time to wipe off the excess.
I get my CA glue from Ace Hardware,their name "Ace hardware-Gel" is on the small white tube

Joe

I use Zap-A-Gap in the green bottle. I had to buy some of the thin stuff (blue botte?) due to a damaged kit at a show and hated the stuff.

I'll throw my 2 cents worth in:

I like to use the foam compatible CA by Eflite. The medium viscosity works great for me and when it's in place, spray the activator and it's set!

Either that, or 5 minute epoxy. Take your pick. It really depends on how you apply it too.

I use the medium viscosity "Insta-Cure+" by Bob Smith Industries. It's available at any good hobby shop. It's the purple top bottle, the shops put thier own name on the front.
More importantly, I think, is HOW I apply CA to PE. I hold the PE part with tweezers and touch the part to a drop of CA, then place it on the model. This puts a minimal amount of CA on only the mating surface, usually avoiding any cleanup at all no matter where it goes on the model.

hello bill
i dont know if anyone has tried this but on some smaller PE i have used humbrol gloss coat varnish. all i did was paint a small amount where the PE is mean't to go then laid the PE on to the gloss coat manouverd the part into position, let it dry for a little time and then over painted with the gloss varnish. when the parts had dried there is no residue left over and the part(s) were stuck firmly to my m1 aim abrams.then after a coat of primer then the sand coloured paint the PE looked great.
give it a go bill it truely did work for me.
all the best
neil

Thanks everyone for the suggestion. I purchased a thicker version of Zap-A-Gap today, and I'll try that (though it still looks watery to me!).

Some guys were singing the praises of Gator Glue in another thread - I haven't tried it, but it sounds like good stuff!

Zap-a-Gap is the medium viscosity version. Plain 'Zap' is the thinnest - then Zap-a-Gap, and Zap Gel the thickest. More info here
I like using Loctite's Control liquid super glue, available at Rona here in Canada. They make a Gel too, but I find the Gels' shelf life isn't too long once you open it.
For an applicator, grind a small bit off the eye end of a needle (wear safety glasses!), so you have a small 'Y' shape, but still with a bit of curve in it (it will hold the glue from surface tension). Depending on the size of the needle, very small amounts of the glue can be precisely applied. (put a small drop first on some foil, glass or use the lids from frozen OJ cans, then dip the needle/eye tool in the drop) The needle can be stuck in the eraser end of a pencil for better control. The thin viscosity of Zap has it's uses, as capillary action can make it flow between the parts once they're tacked on.
edit: Oh, yeah, when it starts to build up on the needle, just keep a lighter handy to burn it off, a quick rub with a scotchbrite pad will polish it up again-after it's cooled of course!

Jim

Great advice about the needle Jim. I will try this soon. I use the loctite stuff with the brush. It is quite watery but doesn't really go very far when I apply it so I'm happy and plus I can "dip" the parts in the stuff on the brush for more precise application.