I have the beast on my shelf, finally. I know there are a bunch of AM stuff available but I'd like to ask those who have experience with this kit: what's worth getting? I'm on a budget, and also I don't want to spend weeks with PE... but I know some parts do need some improvement.
So what is essential to get? The tracks seem OK, but some PE might be essential, and metal barrels, perhaps? What should I pay attention to at construction?
Your insight is much appreciated.
EDIT: Hey, that's my 1000th post! Should I be proud or ashamed?
Hosted by Jacques Duquette
Some advice with the T-35 please
spongya
Associate Editor
Budapest, Hungary
Joined: February 01, 2005
KitMaker: 2,365 posts
Armorama: 1,709 posts
Joined: February 01, 2005
KitMaker: 2,365 posts
Armorama: 1,709 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 05:03 AM UTC
Slug
Alberta, Canada
Joined: September 02, 2004
KitMaker: 705 posts
Armorama: 505 posts
Joined: September 02, 2004
KitMaker: 705 posts
Armorama: 505 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 08:20 AM UTC
I know for sure you will want new 7.62 mm MGs, the kit one are pretty weak.
-Bruce
-Bruce
TacFireGuru
Colorado, United States
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 09:55 AM UTC
Get at least the PE set for it....You'll really want that.
Also, get ahold of CyberWombat......he's done a hell of a build (don't think he's quite done(?)).....he'll be able to give a lot of good info about the kit.
Mike
Also, get ahold of CyberWombat......he's done a hell of a build (don't think he's quite done(?)).....he'll be able to give a lot of good info about the kit.
Mike
VolkerS
Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
Joined: June 18, 2007
KitMaker: 120 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Joined: June 18, 2007
KitMaker: 120 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 07, 2008 - 11:48 AM UTC
Hi Andras,
I finished mine about a year ago. I added Jordi barrels and friul tracks as AM-stuff.
First off all give it a bath in warm water with dishwashing detergent to remove the sticky molding agent!
Pay attention to align the hull parts (no tub!), as warping can cause a lot of trouble with that huge battleship.
Dry fit the turrets, as their mounting is very tight! Some sanding was needed on mine.
Don't fit the mg's early in the process, as they are VERY fragile (but not that bad!). They will break easily.
The kit provided tracks aren't bad, but friuls are much better! I would go for them again.
I replaced the louvres above the engine vents with evergreen, looks much better than the kits item.
I didn't use PE for that monster and indeed I wouldn't if doing it again. Some smaller attachments etc. could be done from scratch.
So, if on budget I would add the tracks, but not neccessarily PE and/or barrels.
Be asured, this huge land-battleship will look good once build with care! (I added mine to members gallery, have a look!)
Greetings
Volker
I finished mine about a year ago. I added Jordi barrels and friul tracks as AM-stuff.
First off all give it a bath in warm water with dishwashing detergent to remove the sticky molding agent!
Pay attention to align the hull parts (no tub!), as warping can cause a lot of trouble with that huge battleship.
Dry fit the turrets, as their mounting is very tight! Some sanding was needed on mine.
Don't fit the mg's early in the process, as they are VERY fragile (but not that bad!). They will break easily.
The kit provided tracks aren't bad, but friuls are much better! I would go for them again.
I replaced the louvres above the engine vents with evergreen, looks much better than the kits item.
I didn't use PE for that monster and indeed I wouldn't if doing it again. Some smaller attachments etc. could be done from scratch.
So, if on budget I would add the tracks, but not neccessarily PE and/or barrels.
Be asured, this huge land-battleship will look good once build with care! (I added mine to members gallery, have a look!)
Greetings
Volker
spongya
Associate Editor
Budapest, Hungary
Joined: February 01, 2005
KitMaker: 2,365 posts
Armorama: 1,709 posts
Joined: February 01, 2005
KitMaker: 2,365 posts
Armorama: 1,709 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 16, 2008 - 10:48 PM UTC
Thanks for the answers I'll think about it; I guess PE and MG are must.
Posted: Sunday, February 17, 2008 - 07:24 AM UTC
I finished one a few months ago. I did use the PE stuff but only becuase I was doing the tank as left by it crew and picked over. NO internal detial on hatches so this is a must if you are going to leave the hatches open. Metal tracks are also a must. Barrels could go either way depending on your budget. I would skip the PE stuff as the only thing that really needs replaces are engine louves, intake screens, track pully wheel all which can done with platic stock or mesh. I recommed this site for photos. and the landship book if you can find it. Also remeber you have to remove the rear turret MG and the kit is missine the spare track hold down.
http://grayknight.narod.ru/T-35/T-35.htm
Here are some pics of mine. Rust is not as heavy in person, not sure way it shows up so bright.
http://grayknight.narod.ru/T-35/T-35.htm
Here are some pics of mine. Rust is not as heavy in person, not sure way it shows up so bright.
GeraldOwens
Florida, United States
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 17, 2008 - 09:01 AM UTC
The Barbarossa book on the T-35 is a superb reference, if you can spare the money. Also, the ICM/Alanger kit uses the stock T-28 main turret, which should not have the "tail gunner" machine gun on the back. It wasn't needed, since the T-35 had a dedicated MG turret defending the rear (there was one exception--a late T-35 with the sloping turrets had the tail gun--it was seen in one of the Moscow parades, but it may have been the only one).
russian
Antwerpen, Belgium
Joined: July 25, 2006
KitMaker: 16 posts
Armorama: 5 posts
Joined: July 25, 2006
KitMaker: 16 posts
Armorama: 5 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 17, 2008 - 11:57 PM UTC
Your swastika is rong??!!
GeraldOwens
Florida, United States
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Posted: Monday, February 18, 2008 - 09:38 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Your swastika is rong??!!
No, Nazi flags had the image printed right through, so the swastika was clockwise when viewed from one side and counterclockwise when viewed from the other. This particular flag is upside down, that's all.