Just received a dragon M-51 in 1/35 but hadn't expected the model to only come with plastic individual linked tracks. This is still very new to me, and I have never done it before. Should I build it in sections and paint it, then assemble it, and then assemble it to the model? And any tips on how to form it before the glue sets? Also, anybody know if the Academy M-51 comes with rubber tracks? And if there were any kits (cheap, preferably) that I could hijack rubber tracks from? Thanks in advance.
Regards,
-Marc
Hosted by Darren Baker
M-51 Plastic Track (Looking for tips?)
Shift911
Joined: December 17, 2007
KitMaker: 192 posts
Armorama: 185 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 11:20 AM UTC
SSGToms
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 01:29 PM UTC
Best bet in your situation is to buy the AFV Club one piece T66 HVSS tracks, #35057. They are sold seperately and widely available, MSRP $8.95
Shift911
Joined: December 17, 2007
KitMaker: 192 posts
Armorama: 185 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 03:06 PM UTC
Thanks, but I checked them out and they say that are for the M4, but the M-51 has a noticably larger sprocket width, no? They will still fit? Thanks.
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 08:44 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Just received a dragon M-51 in 1/35 but hadn't expected the model to only come with plastic individual linked tracks. This is still very new to me, and I have never done it before. Should I build it in sections and paint it, then assemble it, and then assemble it to the model? And any tips on how to form it before the glue sets? Also, anybody know if the Academy M-51 comes with rubber tracks? And if there were any kits (cheap, preferably) that I could hijack rubber tracks from? Thanks in advance.
Regards,
-Marc
I just won a bet with myself!
To answer your questions:
Your method would probably work, but I don't like to work with painted parts, not matter where they go. I know that painting into those tight crevices seems a daunting task, but with most of it being airbrushed initially, and then weathered, I find it's easier to assemble everything first.
I work the track in sections, and connect them at the very end, forming them to the model with the individual links bewteen each straight run. I lay them out on a glass table with a steel ruler taped to it. Then I assemble runs of track, flatten them, and very sparingly touch Testors's liquid cement to the pin ends. Let the straight runs set up long enough to be slightly pliable before attaching them.
THIS guy seems to have a better method I'd like to try the next time I get the chance:
https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/1737&page=1
No matter which method you use, it will require a little patience.
The Academy kit does come with the rubber tracks. No idea if they fit, because I put them on the Academy kit. The kit as a whole is not bad although it has a few issues, should you ever decide to do another M-51.
When I was doing MLRS models for Lockheed Martin, a friend of mine actually constructed a jig to build the links around, and then inserted the wheels inside the track. I don't imagine this is worth the effort for one model, but it is yet another method that's been used.
Either way, have fun with the build. Be careful cutting the Jerry can holders from the sprues - they break very easily.
agtquimi
Joined: September 08, 2005
KitMaker: 117 posts
Armorama: 74 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 09:31 PM UTC
I made a jig like this with three wood pieces an a pair of claws
the red part are fixed and the blue ones mobile, so they can be adapted to all sizes of tracks, I've built Pz. I to King Tiger tracks, it isn't for use with the VVSS Sherman Tracks... but with the HVSS can be used
sorry I've no photos
the red part are fixed and the blue ones mobile, so they can be adapted to all sizes of tracks, I've built Pz. I to King Tiger tracks, it isn't for use with the VVSS Sherman Tracks... but with the HVSS can be used
sorry I've no photos
GeraldOwens
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Posted: Friday, February 22, 2008 - 09:42 AM UTC
The Academy kit does come with vinyl tracks, but I wouldn't recommend them,as the centerguide isn't right. The newest Dragon HVSS Sherman has DS soft plastic glueable strip tracks, but do you really want to buy a whole kit for the tracks? Another alternative is the AFV Club workable (sort of) Sherman HVSS tracks. You slide the end connectors over the pins, and friction should hold them together while you install the track run. Then cement them in place. They're under twenty bucks, US, generally.
GeraldOwens
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 03:01 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextAnother alternative is the AFV Club workable (sort of) Sherman HVSS tracks. You slide the end connectors over the pins, and friction should hold them together while you install the track run.
Oh, good call, not really. One of the first things he wrote was:
Quoted TextThis is still very new to me, and I have never done it before.
If he's having problems with the tracks in the kit, the AFV Club T80 tracks are not a very good idea.
Your sarcasm is not appreciated, Mr. Owsley. In my opinion, the workable tracks are easier to assemble than the kit's friction fit "magic" tracks, since the connectors actually connect something.
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 06:24 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Your sarcasm is not appreciated, Mr. Owsley. In my opinion, the workable tracks are easier to assemble than the kit's friction fit "magic" tracks, since the connectors actually connect something.
I happen to agree. The workable links' connectors are correctly spaced on the sprues. I line up four or five links at a time, and snip a section of sprue with a similar number of connectors, and slide them all on starting at one end and working toward the other. It's fast and easy. Of course, I HAVE cheated on occasion: Sometimes the end connectors don't want to stay on, so I cover the links with strip of cardboard (as many as reasonable at one time) leaving the pins exposed, and hit the pins with a brief shot of spray mount. If you're doing long straight runs this isn't even necessary. Just a tiny touch of liquid cement does the trick.
" If you love wealth greater than liberty, the tranquility of servitude greater than the animating contest of freedom, go home and leave us in peace. We seek not your council, nor your arms".
Samuel Adams
jowady
Joined: June 12, 2006
KitMaker: 1,027 posts
Armorama: 683 posts
KitMaker: 1,027 posts
Armorama: 683 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 07:29 PM UTC
[quote]
I've found that a little "canopy glue" such as RCZ56 on the pins during assembly holds everything in place, but leaves stuff flexible enough to mount on the tank.
John
Quoted Text
It's fast and easy. Of course, I HAVE cheated on occasion: Sometimes the end connectors don't want to stay on, so I cover the links with strip of cardboard (as many as reasonable at one time) leaving the pins exposed, and hit the pins with a brief shot of spray mount. If you're doing long straight runs this isn't even necessary. Just a tiny touch of liquid cement does the trick.
Samuel Adams
I've found that a little "canopy glue" such as RCZ56 on the pins during assembly holds everything in place, but leaves stuff flexible enough to mount on the tank.
John
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 08:54 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted TextAnother alternative is the AFV Club workable (sort of) Sherman HVSS tracks. You slide the end connectors over the pins, and friction should hold them together while you install the track run.
Oh, good call, not really. One of the first things he wrote was:
Quoted TextThis is still very new to me, and I have never done it before.
If he's having problems with the tracks in the kit, the AFV Club T80 tracks are not a very good idea.
Your sarcasm is not appreciated, Mr. Owsley. In my opinion, the workable tracks are easier to assemble than the kit's friction fit "magic" tracks, since the connectors actually connect something.
Well, going by Marc's first post, it doesn't really say that he is "having problems." Yet, anyway.
Marc states that it is new to him. He can try the kit tracks, as suggested. Then again, using the same logic in that post, he can just as well "try" the others. As indicated, they're really no harder, and at least two of us happen to like them.
I built my first kit, a Nautilus sub, 40 years ago. It hasn't helped my track putting together ability either. No one's calling anyone's ability into question, just offering several very good alternatives.
Marc, for those, I'd try that tape method, as it lends itself well to those particular tracks. If it works, then you haven't spent any extra money. If not, you can always get the workables. By the way, welcome to the site!
" If you love wealth greater than liberty, the tranquility of servitude greater than the animating contest of freedom, go home and leave us in peace. We seek not your council, nor your arms".
Samuel Adams
heavykev
Joined: August 23, 2005
KitMaker: 25 posts
Armorama: 15 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 23, 2008 - 11:47 PM UTC
Marc,
please persist with the kit tracks and you will never look back to rubbr band tracks.
Several techniques for using these.
Build them onto the kit and paint them with the vehicle
Build them in sections, paint them in sections and then add to kit at the end
Paint the links on the spru, add these to the kit last and then touch up when in place.
Will see if I can find any step by step articles on this
[quote][quote]
I actually thought it was a bloody good bit of sarcasm and would agree with Gary 110%.
if you are new to modelling, why get sidetracked by aftermarket stuff.
Build what is in the box, if you stuff it up, buy another kit and hope you learn from your mistakes.
Trying to find an easy way out with aftermarket stuff will teach you nothing.
Too much after market stuff and you will end up with AMS ( Advanced modellers syndrome) before you have finished any kits.
It took me 30 years to contract AMS and now I can't frakin finish a kit.
cheers
kev
please persist with the kit tracks and you will never look back to rubbr band tracks.
Several techniques for using these.
Build them onto the kit and paint them with the vehicle
Build them in sections, paint them in sections and then add to kit at the end
Paint the links on the spru, add these to the kit last and then touch up when in place.
Will see if I can find any step by step articles on this
[quote][quote]
Quoted Text
Your sarcasm is not appreciated, Mr. Owsley. In my opinion, the workable tracks are easier to assemble than the kit's friction fit "magic" tracks, since the connectors actually connect something.
I actually thought it was a bloody good bit of sarcasm and would agree with Gary 110%.
if you are new to modelling, why get sidetracked by aftermarket stuff.
Build what is in the box, if you stuff it up, buy another kit and hope you learn from your mistakes.
Trying to find an easy way out with aftermarket stuff will teach you nothing.
Too much after market stuff and you will end up with AMS ( Advanced modellers syndrome) before you have finished any kits.
It took me 30 years to contract AMS and now I can't frakin finish a kit.
cheers
kev
Grumpyoldman
ConsigliereJoined: October 17, 2003
KitMaker: 15,338 posts
Armorama: 7,297 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 24, 2008 - 12:12 AM UTC
Welcome to the site Marc, and good luck with you present project.
Where in NJ you from, I'm in Morris County.
I can identify with that, and I'm not even a rivet counter, of course I blame it on being senile and forgetting where I put things.
Where in NJ you from, I'm in Morris County.
Quoted Text
It took me 30 years to contract AMS and now I can't frakin finish a kit.
I can identify with that, and I'm not even a rivet counter, of course I blame it on being senile and forgetting where I put things.
Shift911
Joined: December 17, 2007
KitMaker: 192 posts
Armorama: 185 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 24, 2008 - 02:40 AM UTC
Thanks again all, and sorry if this post caused some friction among us... The tape idea sounds good, so I will try that first. Dave, I'm in Sussex county right outside of Newton. Thank you all for the warm welcome, and all the suggestions and help.
Regards,
Regards,
Grumpyoldman
ConsigliereJoined: October 17, 2003
KitMaker: 15,338 posts
Armorama: 7,297 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 24, 2008 - 05:30 AM UTC
Newton, hell,that's right up the road apiece, I'm down in Parsippany.
 |
WEB HOSTING BY
Copyright ©2021 Armorama and Kitmaker Network, a subsidiary of Silver Star Enterprises
All Rights Reserved. Please read our Conditions of Use and Privacy Policy.
All Rights Reserved. Please read our Conditions of Use and Privacy Policy.