_GOTOBOTTOM
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hair spray method
Tarok
Visit this Community
Victoria, Australia
Joined: July 28, 2004
KitMaker: 10,889 posts
Armorama: 3,245 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 09:49 AM UTC

Quoted Text

What is the best brand of hairspray to use?



I've not used this technique yet, but the reference material differs: some recommend specific brands; others state any brand. All agree on it being a "fine mist, non-fragrance type of hairspray", as Mike states above.
SSGToms
Visit this Community
Connecticut, United States
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 10:34 AM UTC
Right. The simplest, cheapest, no additive hair spray is the best to use. Old brands like "Aqua-Net" come to mind. Make sure it has no fragrance, color preservative, or other bells and whistles. You can probably find a good brand to use at the dollar store. You can buy the aerosol spray can, or buy the pump spray bottle and shoot it through your airbrush.
210cav
Visit this Community
Virginia, United States
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 11:25 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Havn't tried it yet but this thread explains it pretty well.

Hair Spray Method

Looks pretty good and seems quite easy to pull off.

Jeff



Jeff-- that is a super method. I must try it on my next winter project.
Many thanks
DJ
Plasticbattle
#003
Visit this Community
Donegal, Ireland
Joined: May 14, 2002
KitMaker: 9,763 posts
Armorama: 7,444 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 12:16 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I heard of this method what is this method??? I would like to use this method for white wash . thanks


Sorry your thread was hijacked and went
Anyways ... heres a link to a quite long thread on MIGs site .... quite interesting as well.
Could we please talk about the hair spray technique a bit?
Removed by original poster on 03/02/10 - 22:20:02 (GMT).
Kuno-Von-Dodenburg
Visit this Community
England - North, United Kingdom
Joined: February 20, 2007
KitMaker: 1,453 posts
Armorama: 1,319 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 07:54 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I've been following your models for years and they have been very good except that your CHIPPING is really over the top. Remember paint WEARS more than chips.Land Rover you did for MMIR where it looks like a dozen elves went wild with chipping hammers. Maybe the judges like this look but it is not realistic. You can spot the overdone effect a mile away. Tone it down and have terrific models.
This message is for Mike Rianaldi



In that case, perhaps you'd like to post up some photos of your own (no doubt stunning) work to show us all how it SHOULD be done.
This message is for James Habeck.
Plasticbattle
#003
Visit this Community
Donegal, Ireland
Joined: May 14, 2002
KitMaker: 9,763 posts
Armorama: 7,444 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 11:32 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I'm very sorry if I offended anyone. I wanted to get on track and follow the discussion, asking a question and I received several answers. Thank you. I did not say that chipping was bad. My point was that sometime it may be overdone. As paint is worn off in places, rather than chipped, could the hairspray method be used to show a worn off rather than chipped area. Maybe 600 wet /dry sandpaper in a scrubbing motion.. Again; please accept my apology if I sounded rude. Jim


Hi James. Although I wasn´t personally offended, it annoys me when people offer up their time and energy to help, and get attacked for it. The results may not be to everybodys taste .... and that is up to each individual ... but if you genuinelly want help or tips on tectniques ... yesterdays posts was not the way to go about it. Extreme/heavy weathering is popular ... right or wrong ... and even if you don´t like the effect ... don´t knock the technique ... or the person. Take it or leave it ... or even question it in its own thread in a more tactfull way ... although this certain subject has been done to the death as there are so many from both sides that defend the way they model.

To show wear like you mention, I honestly believe sanding back would work although Ive never tried it myself. First coat dark rusty colour, next coat very light version of the base colour or primer if relevant and then the base colour. With controlled sanding, the light colour/primer will show before the rust colour, and look like wear/heavy wear, depending on how much sanding is made.
This effect can also be painted ... use thinned paints though ... first a lighter version of the base colour or primer, and then rusty/dark colour centered in this area. It is also possible with some practise to show wear by dry brushing the affected area with the relevant colours. If you have any unused parts in your spare box, experiment on these first until you get what the effect you are looking for.
And by all means, photograph and document your results and encourage some discussion. Hopefully nobody knocks your efforts after puting in all that work though ... its probably not a nice feeling

Click here for a link to Rarities World on Missing Links ... where MIG discusses some weathering methods, that you may find useful.
Tarok
Visit this Community
Victoria, Australia
Joined: July 28, 2004
KitMaker: 10,889 posts
Armorama: 3,245 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 11:40 PM UTC
I'd be too scared to use sand paper to attempt that affect. I'd think it too abrasive. What about simply using a hard bristle brush?

Here's another SBS, this time by Sven Frisch http://tanksandthings.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=53&func=view&catid=9&id=14701
SSGToms
Visit this Community
Connecticut, United States
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Posted: Monday, March 01, 2010 - 08:47 AM UTC
As far as sanding back the paint goes, you can buy sanding pads from 2400 to 12000 grit.
Removed by original poster on 03/02/10 - 22:28:25 (GMT).
Removed by original poster on 03/05/10 - 02:33:50 (GMT).
Tarok
Visit this Community
Victoria, Australia
Joined: July 28, 2004
KitMaker: 10,889 posts
Armorama: 3,245 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 10:55 AM UTC
jimmieboy said:

Quoted Text

The troll has departed. Now you can go back to "I'm GREAT, you're GREAT Aren't we all the GREATEST?



Such a pity some people don't appreciate the advice and help others offer. Apart from a small off-topic detour this thread has been very informative, IMO.

So long and good luck with your own modelling. Hopefully you find a community more attuned to your needs.
muchachos
Visit this Community
Ontario, Canada
Joined: May 21, 2008
KitMaker: 537 posts
Armorama: 439 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 01:46 PM UTC

Quoted Text

As far as sanding back the paint goes, you can buy sanding pads from 2400 to 12000 grit.



Wouldn't those polish the finish more than anything?
SSGToms
Visit this Community
Connecticut, United States
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 01:56 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

As far as sanding back the paint goes, you can buy sanding pads from 2400 to 12000 grit.



Wouldn't those polish the finish more than anything?


Yes, if you kept going finer and finer, it would. I was just pointing out that you can get grits a lot finer than 600 if you don't want to leave scratch marks.
muchachos
Visit this Community
Ontario, Canada
Joined: May 21, 2008
KitMaker: 537 posts
Armorama: 439 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 02:19 PM UTC
OK. I built a wooden door the other day for a barn that I was making for a dio, and I had some effective results by applying craft paint, then sanding it with 400 grit before it had quite dried. It allowed me to get a worn, gradually faded look and if I pushed harder, an effective flaking chipped look. IDK if this would work for whitewash, but maybe worth an experiment?
 _GOTOTOP