AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Hair spray method
commanche1
Texas, United States
Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 61 posts
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Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 61 posts
Armorama: 51 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 02:25 PM UTC
I heard of this method what is this method??? I would like to use this method for white wash . thanks
Posted: Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 03:10 PM UTC
Havn't tried it yet but this thread explains it pretty well.
Hair Spray Method
Looks pretty good and seems quite easy to pull off.
Jeff
Hair Spray Method
Looks pretty good and seems quite easy to pull off.
Jeff
PrestonVonStruben
Hawaii, United States
Joined: February 02, 2008
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Joined: February 02, 2008
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Posted: Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 04:16 PM UTC
jeff nailed it, that is basically it. it is that simple. but instead of a spray on i paint it on. more control and such
commanche1
Texas, United States
Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 61 posts
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Joined: April 26, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 04:19 PM UTC
Hey thanks alot that looks fairly ezy..
Lee-Enfield
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: February 25, 2007
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Joined: February 25, 2007
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Posted: Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 04:50 PM UTC
Now that's a good one to remember.... or bookmark! Looks so easy even I can do it.
rinaldi119
Oregon, United States
Joined: September 22, 2004
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Joined: September 22, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 07:03 PM UTC
A few thoughts on using the Hairspray technique:
1) It is a useful technique for any model that requires the outer layer of paint to be chipped in rough fashion, not just winter schemes.
2) Both the intensity and size of the chips can be controlled by how much hairspray is applied and how opaque the outer layer of paint is.
3) It is advisable to use a fine mist, non-fragrance type of hairspray. For winter schemes two even coats are adequate to allow the white to be chipped effectively. A hairdryer on low heat will help speed up the drying process. A single coat of hairspray will make it more resistant to chipping, but used properly this can create a more subtle effect for other camo schemes.
4) If you completely make the outer paint layer opaque, then some sort of mark or nick down to the undercoat is going to be required to let the water attack the hairspray. Water will not dissolve the paint itself, so it needs some way to get to the hairspray.
5) It works best with acrylic paintjobs. If you feel it worthwhile you can protect the base layer with a varnish, however I have not found it a necessity to achieve good results.
6) I strongly recommend doing a test sample first to see how the process works. Large chips are easily made and this is not always a good thing. Not all hairsprays are the same and depending on how much water you use will also make a difference to how quickly the hairspray is removed and thus the outer layer of paint along with it.
7) You can use other devices besides brushes to make the chips. Toothpicks, plastic stir sticks, anything similar can help recreate interesting chips and scratches in the outer layer of paint.
HTH,
Mike
1) It is a useful technique for any model that requires the outer layer of paint to be chipped in rough fashion, not just winter schemes.
2) Both the intensity and size of the chips can be controlled by how much hairspray is applied and how opaque the outer layer of paint is.
3) It is advisable to use a fine mist, non-fragrance type of hairspray. For winter schemes two even coats are adequate to allow the white to be chipped effectively. A hairdryer on low heat will help speed up the drying process. A single coat of hairspray will make it more resistant to chipping, but used properly this can create a more subtle effect for other camo schemes.
4) If you completely make the outer paint layer opaque, then some sort of mark or nick down to the undercoat is going to be required to let the water attack the hairspray. Water will not dissolve the paint itself, so it needs some way to get to the hairspray.
5) It works best with acrylic paintjobs. If you feel it worthwhile you can protect the base layer with a varnish, however I have not found it a necessity to achieve good results.
6) I strongly recommend doing a test sample first to see how the process works. Large chips are easily made and this is not always a good thing. Not all hairsprays are the same and depending on how much water you use will also make a difference to how quickly the hairspray is removed and thus the outer layer of paint along with it.
7) You can use other devices besides brushes to make the chips. Toothpicks, plastic stir sticks, anything similar can help recreate interesting chips and scratches in the outer layer of paint.
HTH,
Mike
commanche1
Texas, United States
Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 61 posts
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Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 61 posts
Armorama: 51 posts
Posted: Monday, March 03, 2008 - 02:41 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks for that tip now a small question when you say varnish do you mean like a dull coat ? to protect the paint ..now the model is painted with Humbrol Panzer grey and that is an enamel so it will be safe from the water that i use. correctA few thoughts on using the Hairspray technique:
1) It is a useful technique for any model that requires the outer layer of paint to be chipped in rough fashion, not just winter schemes.
2) Both the intensity and size of the chips can be controlled by how much hairspray is applied and how opaque the outer layer of paint is.
3) It is advisable to use a fine mist, non-fragrance type of hairspray. For winter schemes two even coats are adequate to allow the white to be chipped effectively. A hairdryer on low heat will help speed up the drying process. A single coat of hairspray will make it more resistant to chipping, but used properly this can create a more subtle effect for other camo schemes.
4) If you completely make the outer paint layer opaque, then some sort of mark or nick down to the undercoat is going to be required to let the water attack the hairspray. Water will not dissolve the paint itself, so it needs some way to get to the hairspray.
5) It works best with acrylic paintjobs. If you feel it worthwhile you can protect the base layer with a varnish, however I have not found it a necessity to achieve good results.
6) I strongly recommend doing a test sample first to see how the process works. Large chips are easily made and this is not always a good thing. Not all hairsprays are the same and depending on how much water you use will also make a difference to how quickly the hairspray is removed and thus the outer layer of paint along with it.
7) You can use other devices besides brushes to make the chips. Toothpicks, plastic stir sticks, anything similar can help recreate interesting chips and scratches in the outer layer of paint.
HTH,
Mike
vanize
Texas, United States
Joined: January 30, 2006
KitMaker: 1,954 posts
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Joined: January 30, 2006
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Posted: Monday, March 03, 2008 - 03:58 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks for that tip now a small question when you say varnish do you mean like a dull coat ? to protect the paint ..now the model is painted with Humbrol Panzer grey and that is an enamel so it will be safe from the water that i use. correct
you are correct on both counts: dullcoat = varnish (in this case), and enamels are waterproof (and so are acrylics if properly applied and fully cured).
Removed by original poster on 03/02/10 - 22:16:51 (GMT).
Removed by original poster on 03/02/10 - 22:17:17 (GMT).
Removed by original poster on 03/02/10 - 22:17:46 (GMT).
BillGorm
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 02, 2009
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Posted: Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 03:29 AM UTC
James - Do you have a question for Mike or are you just baiting him? If you think he goes too far in his weathering, then take note and adjust your own efforts accordingly.
exer
Dublin, Ireland
Joined: November 27, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 03:57 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I must be doing something wrong as I didn't see my last post show up. I'll say again that Mike Rianaldi would be a terrific model maker if he would STOP SOONER. Now he is just good. Case in point: a Land Rover featured in MMIR. First, paint wears off more then chipped off. They paint over primer. not grease. This model looked like a few madmen went to work with paint scrapers. Not very realistic. This might be for the judges, but to slow your true talent, SLOW DOWN ON THE EXCESSIVE CHIPPING AND WEATHERING
Well it's a matter of taste, These comments add nothing to the original question so if you want to have a debate with Mike on his finshes please do it by private message.
wing_nut
New Jersey, United States
Joined: June 02, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 04:11 AM UTC
Mike as given some great insights. As he said this is more often than not done with an acrylic coat that is being "chipped" Enamel works too but require more work, and the afore mentioned starter nick/scratch, to get it off. Can be useful when limiting the amount of wear is needed. I use HS in a pump bottle so I can pour it in a paint cup to spray through the AB. Nice smooth coats that way.
And as also stated, don't limit its use to whitewash. Pioneer tools, cable tow ends, mufflers and so on can get the same treatment with great effects.
And as also stated, don't limit its use to whitewash. Pioneer tools, cable tow ends, mufflers and so on can get the same treatment with great effects.
spoons
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: January 09, 2008
KitMaker: 527 posts
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Joined: January 09, 2008
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Posted: Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 04:33 AM UTC
guys dont forget a lot of modelers/producers might use excessive finishing techniques because they have a lot of pigment to sell
Removed by original poster on 03/02/10 - 22:18:14 (GMT).
Removed by original poster on 03/02/10 - 22:18:47 (GMT).
Removed by original poster on 03/02/10 - 22:19:17 (GMT).
BillGorm
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 02, 2009
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Posted: Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 05:23 AM UTC
James - It's equally obvious that your question isn't objectively posed, since it takes as fact the issue meant for debate. Speaking of which, I'm not on here to debate you. I just think your posts should have addressed the technique rather than the modeler.
exer
Dublin, Ireland
Joined: November 27, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 08:10 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I think the question is quite obvious. Why do first class modelers overdo the chipping and weathering???
In your first three posts you didn't ask a question. We're not psychic.
"Chipping and weathering is overdone" has been done to death on Armorama but if you want to go down that road start a new thread and don't hijack this one to push your agenda
SSGToms
Connecticut, United States
Joined: April 02, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 08:39 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I think the question is quite obvious. Why do first class modelers overdo the chipping and weathering???
James,
You probably wont' get answers to your questions for 3 reasons:
1) It's not the topic.
2) Frankly, the way you phrase it, you come off sounding argumentative and pompous.
3) I've seen models of tanks fresh from the paint shop, and beat to hell, and everything in between win a Gold medal. There's no conspiracy or deficiency among judges and ace modelers. The whole idea is to add visual interest and variety to a models' surface.
If you would like to post a separate thread saying "Asked for debate - Do first class modelers overdo the chipping and weathering?" please feel free to do so.
SSGToms
Connecticut, United States
Joined: April 02, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 09:05 AM UTC
When using the hairspray technique, I have an important tip from my daughter, an optometry technician.
When you spray the hairspray, make sure you put your eyeglasses in another room. The hairspray mist bonds to your glasses lenses and will blur your vision. If this is impossible, make sure you wash your glasses thoroughly after spraying hairspray, even if you can't see it on the lenses.
When you spray the hairspray, make sure you put your eyeglasses in another room. The hairspray mist bonds to your glasses lenses and will blur your vision. If this is impossible, make sure you wash your glasses thoroughly after spraying hairspray, even if you can't see it on the lenses.
Removed by original poster on 03/02/10 - 22:20:54 (GMT).
Posted: Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 07:33 AM UTC
Quoted Text
What is the best brand of hairspray to use?
When Michael Rinaldi stepped up to help a fellow modeller with his version of this method, you have ridiculed him with 7 of your 10 posts on this site. Why would anyone else make an effort to try to help you? You have already stated 7 times that chipping is way over done ... why does this method still interest you?
Pyromaniac
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: January 10, 2009
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Posted: Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 09:41 AM UTC
I don't want this to turn into a flaming thread, but I think Frank makes a good point here. It seems like you have come to these forums and done nothing but offer negativity and criticism to other modellers, and then expect helpful advice in return.
Back on topic, the linked tutorial is good, but it seems to be a condensed version of another one i have seen which was much longer and detailed how the person demonstrating sprayed some of this into the airbrush and then used this to spray it to give more control. I'm sure i recognise some of those pics. Is it just me or can anyone else remember reading that tutorial?
Back on topic, the linked tutorial is good, but it seems to be a condensed version of another one i have seen which was much longer and detailed how the person demonstrating sprayed some of this into the airbrush and then used this to spray it to give more control. I'm sure i recognise some of those pics. Is it just me or can anyone else remember reading that tutorial?