Figures
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
simple faces.
lespauljames
England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: January 06, 2007
KitMaker: 3,661 posts
Armorama: 2,764 posts
Joined: January 06, 2007
KitMaker: 3,661 posts
Armorama: 2,764 posts
Posted: Friday, March 14, 2008 - 11:03 PM UTC
just got the tamiya 1/35 tank crew at rest and dont want to screw up the faces. anyone got any simple tips to make them look good, lake what type of wash etc
AJLaFleche
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 15, 2008 - 03:24 AM UTC
First thing, don't use a commercial flesh paint as your base. Noneof them look natural.
So what do you use? depends on what you use for paints. Tamiya are not good for this since they are not brush friendly.
Get some Model Master white and burnt sienna and mix these for a base. You can add more burnt sienna for the shadows and more white for the highlights. You can substitute oils for these.
Alternatively, and a better choince, IMHO, are Andrea and Vallejo acrylics. Both have flesh color sets, thin with distilled water (or tap waterif you must. I use Vallejo red beige for a base, adding dark fleshtone for shadows, and pale flesh, sunny skintone or dark flesh for highlilghts ending with well thinned pale flesh for the highest values.
Use a brush that holds a fine point.
So what do you use? depends on what you use for paints. Tamiya are not good for this since they are not brush friendly.
Get some Model Master white and burnt sienna and mix these for a base. You can add more burnt sienna for the shadows and more white for the highlights. You can substitute oils for these.
Alternatively, and a better choince, IMHO, are Andrea and Vallejo acrylics. Both have flesh color sets, thin with distilled water (or tap waterif you must. I use Vallejo red beige for a base, adding dark fleshtone for shadows, and pale flesh, sunny skintone or dark flesh for highlilghts ending with well thinned pale flesh for the highest values.
Use a brush that holds a fine point.
Tarok
Victoria, Australia
Joined: July 28, 2004
KitMaker: 10,889 posts
Armorama: 3,245 posts
Joined: July 28, 2004
KitMaker: 10,889 posts
Armorama: 3,245 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 15, 2008 - 05:32 AM UTC
Try this method: https://hfmodeling.kitmaker.net//features/1993
Not as simple as you may want, but the faces will look awesome.
Not as simple as you may want, but the faces will look awesome.
Removed by original poster on 03/16/08 - 02:48:27 (GMT).
Circuitrider
Alabama, United States
Joined: October 19, 2006
KitMaker: 15 posts
Armorama: 8 posts
Joined: October 19, 2006
KitMaker: 15 posts
Armorama: 8 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 15, 2008 - 02:49 PM UTC
Here's another great tutorial:
hhttp://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/figures/mbheads/mbheads.htm
HTH!
hhttp://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/figures/mbheads/mbheads.htm
HTH!
Tordenskiold
Aarhus, Denmark
Joined: February 12, 2005
KitMaker: 426 posts
Armorama: 293 posts
Joined: February 12, 2005
KitMaker: 426 posts
Armorama: 293 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 15, 2008 - 07:07 PM UTC
lespauljames
England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: January 06, 2007
KitMaker: 3,661 posts
Armorama: 2,764 posts
Joined: January 06, 2007
KitMaker: 3,661 posts
Armorama: 2,764 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 16, 2008 - 08:38 AM UTC
didnt have acess to any of the paints had to settle for tamiya flesh toned down. its not great. but its a start yhe shine on the uniform is wrong light, will try for better pictures tommorow with natural light
PanzerEd
Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
Joined: January 14, 2006
KitMaker: 432 posts
Armorama: 402 posts
Joined: January 14, 2006
KitMaker: 432 posts
Armorama: 402 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 23, 2008 - 08:09 AM UTC
Ive been using the small Humbrol enamels. I open about 5 pots, give them all a good stir and blend different shades of creams, light browns, tans. I finish off with a little oil wash using the Abteilung dark brown oil paint then once they are completely dry I put over a coat of flat base.
Im still very much in the experiment stage but my results seem to be improving.
Des
Im still very much in the experiment stage but my results seem to be improving.
Des
sadodd
Nebraska, United States
Joined: December 29, 2007
KitMaker: 270 posts
Armorama: 269 posts
Joined: December 29, 2007
KitMaker: 270 posts
Armorama: 269 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 23, 2008 - 08:40 AM UTC
Jimmy,
I know we are throwing a lot of links at and here is another. Not a very quick process but flesh parts look great when done.
http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/figures/mbheads/mbheads.htm
All are definitely worth reading and great sources for info.
I know we are throwing a lot of links at and here is another. Not a very quick process but flesh parts look great when done.
http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/figures/mbheads/mbheads.htm
All are definitely worth reading and great sources for info.
redmike
Ohio, United States
Joined: March 06, 2006
KitMaker: 129 posts
Armorama: 118 posts
Joined: March 06, 2006
KitMaker: 129 posts
Armorama: 118 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 23, 2008 - 08:41 AM UTC
Des put it right when he said experimenting,because that is all you can do. There are a lot of books,websites but you really have to play around and try all the techniques you find. I am still learning as we all are. Your pic proves that all you need is patience and practice.