hey there mike
i like where your ram tigers going nice model
how've u managed to create them struts on the side ? plasticard??
btw what is your tank siting on in the pics of being primed??
Tony
Campaigns
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Richard S.
TFG's RammTiger
panzerIV
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: January 02, 2007
KitMaker: 781 posts
Armorama: 676 posts
Joined: January 02, 2007
KitMaker: 781 posts
Armorama: 676 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 09:19 AM UTC
This post was removed.
TacFireGuru
Colorado, United States
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 06, 2008 - 11:46 AM UTC
Quoted Text
btw what is your tank siting on in the pics of being primed??
My curiosity is peaked as well.
Thanks guys for the compliments. Tony, the struts and all the chassis framing are made from "I-beam." Much like Evergreen, but a different company.
The "doo-dad" that the tank's sitting on is Tamiya's paint stand. Jesper hooked me up with the link to buy it: http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam74522.htm....this is where I got it and I do like their price and service. Certainly recommended!!
Mike
TacFireGuru
Colorado, United States
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Posted: Monday, July 07, 2008 - 11:54 AM UTC
Small update...been working on redoing the front end - the Ramm's "blade." At 107%, the blades height (top to bottom) is fine, but it's a tad short in length (left to right)...Were I to do this again, I'd add an 1/8th of an inch (2mm) to the length, then trim back as necessary.
My quickie, cheatie solution to this is to cover the blade with .020 sheet stock. Here's what I've got so far:
I'll trim the .020 (on the top edges) back to the edge of the original blade pieces (you can see that it's up pretty high). I'll do the same for the underside, though I will probably scribe the stock to wrap around, then trim to fit.
I've started using Testor's "white" to fill in the gaps, and after a couple of weeks, as you can see, the "kink" in the DS tracks didn't come out. Heat it be. Grrrrrrrrrrr.
Hey, it's my first adventure into the real "scratch" world. Having fun and frustrations...but ain't dat modelin'???
Mike
Ignore the Sam Adams there. That was, uh, uh, from, uh, earlier. Yea, earlier! I will say though, their "Summer Ale" is reallllllly good. Mmmmm. It's nice to be 21......
again.
My quickie, cheatie solution to this is to cover the blade with .020 sheet stock. Here's what I've got so far:
I'll trim the .020 (on the top edges) back to the edge of the original blade pieces (you can see that it's up pretty high). I'll do the same for the underside, though I will probably scribe the stock to wrap around, then trim to fit.
I've started using Testor's "white" to fill in the gaps, and after a couple of weeks, as you can see, the "kink" in the DS tracks didn't come out. Heat it be. Grrrrrrrrrrr.
Hey, it's my first adventure into the real "scratch" world. Having fun and frustrations...but ain't dat modelin'???
Mike
Ignore the Sam Adams there. That was, uh, uh, from, uh, earlier. Yea, earlier! I will say though, their "Summer Ale" is reallllllly good. Mmmmm. It's nice to be 21......
again.
c5flies
California, United States
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Posted: Monday, July 07, 2008 - 04:15 PM UTC
Cool build, Mike! Really like those working doors, what a great idea. Looking forward to more on this
thebear
Quebec, Canada
Joined: November 15, 2002
KitMaker: 3,960 posts
Armorama: 3,579 posts
Joined: November 15, 2002
KitMaker: 3,960 posts
Armorama: 3,579 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 - 12:43 PM UTC
Hey Mike ...Got quite a bit done since the last time I saw this one ...For the hatch there should be a support that would hold the Hatch at about (and I do mean about ) a 75 degree angle ..About the hatch ..I might of had it sticking out a bit more and more straight up instead of following the curve of the Ramm Tiger's top ..might even have the vision ports visible but that's just me ..looks great as is ...
As for the tracks why not try rolling them back up but putting them in hot water for a while ..(it might work but I don't know with that DS plastic..nothing to lose )
Rick
As for the tracks why not try rolling them back up but putting them in hot water for a while ..(it might work but I don't know with that DS plastic..nothing to lose )
Rick
TacFireGuru
Colorado, United States
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 - 12:32 PM UTC
Afternoon all (MST time!).
The Ramm hull is just about done on the outside - I just need to add the hatch lid and a couple of "steps" on the rear (for hull access).
I've done the majority of filling and sanding, but there are errors (hence the priming - to aid these aging eyes see the flaws). It'll get some more sanding, then filling of the low spots, then sanding again along with, I hope, a final prime:
As you can see, there are a few "issues" that will be attended to.
Rick, I've only used two parts of the Tiger (P) hatch; part numbers A12 and A33. I've done this to keep the hatch as low a "profile" as possible.
I didn't want to raise it up too much by using the "whole shebang." I'm still undecided about adding vision blocks to the commander's hatch...we'll see. However, I will look hard at drilling and pinning the the two parts at the hinge...where it shows the symbol for not gluing, so that it will function like the rear doors.
Mike
The Ramm hull is just about done on the outside - I just need to add the hatch lid and a couple of "steps" on the rear (for hull access).
I've done the majority of filling and sanding, but there are errors (hence the priming - to aid these aging eyes see the flaws). It'll get some more sanding, then filling of the low spots, then sanding again along with, I hope, a final prime:
As you can see, there are a few "issues" that will be attended to.
Quoted Text
..might even have the vision ports visible
Rick, I've only used two parts of the Tiger (P) hatch; part numbers A12 and A33. I've done this to keep the hatch as low a "profile" as possible.
I didn't want to raise it up too much by using the "whole shebang." I'm still undecided about adding vision blocks to the commander's hatch...we'll see. However, I will look hard at drilling and pinning the the two parts at the hinge...where it shows the symbol for not gluing, so that it will function like the rear doors.
Mike
TacFireGuru
Colorado, United States
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 02:19 AM UTC
Well, got the first coat of Dark Yellow (Tamiya Acrylic XF-60) on. Thinned it about 3 paint to 1 thinner and shot at 20 psi.
Once it has dried enough to handle, I'll work on shooting the underside and sides. Still have the road wheels to do:
I'm also doing more cleaning up the hull's seams and hope to have that ready for final priming today.
Mike
Once it has dried enough to handle, I'll work on shooting the underside and sides. Still have the road wheels to do:
I'm also doing more cleaning up the hull's seams and hope to have that ready for final priming today.
Mike
Bratushka
Indiana, United States
Joined: May 09, 2008
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 657 posts
Joined: May 09, 2008
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 657 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 03:17 AM UTC
i've read several of the posts referring to this build. i really like how yours has come along and especially the attention to detail on the framework to hold the shell. one thing that was mentioned along the way was how the debris from actually ramming into something would be dealt with in regards to it filling up the area in front of the tank via the large opening. i've been thinking about this and had a few ideas, but after dwelling on the subject it all seems too impractical or problematic in terms of durability. are you contemplating anything for that or staying closer to the concept and leaving the opening as is?
BTW: here's a link to a page on the Rammtiger that includes the notorious fake photo, but there is a completed model of one, some paint schemes, and a photo of a real such type of tank. the site itself has some very neat weird vehicles, some familiar and some not. it's worth giving it a peek.
http://strangevehicles.greyfalcon.us/RAUMPANZER%20TIGER.htm
BTW: here's a link to a page on the Rammtiger that includes the notorious fake photo, but there is a completed model of one, some paint schemes, and a photo of a real such type of tank. the site itself has some very neat weird vehicles, some familiar and some not. it's worth giving it a peek.
http://strangevehicles.greyfalcon.us/RAUMPANZER%20TIGER.htm
TacFireGuru
Colorado, United States
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 04:10 AM UTC
Jim,
I think the "issue" with the opening on the front with regards to debris, is a valid one. Now, based on the models out there that have already been done, and the plans that are out there, this would be an issue....one that Darren is solving by creating a "production" vehicle without the opening.
With mine, and adhering to the plans ( ) scaled up to 107%, it actually doesn't have that great a problem:
The plans have the hull sides and top at least 1/2-inch too long, if not more (couple of post's up I indicate this). So, with the "snout" out there further, the opening is greater....the debris is more likely to fall through to the ground versus getting hung up on the tank's front end. Yep, an error on my part for not checking length like I did the width...but an error that "makes sense?" Because the snout's out more, I will "reinforce" the blade at the underside by using some "I-beam" (smaller than the hull's frame).
Here's something else to think about regarding deployment of the RammTiger: Would the commander have his driver ram into the center of a building? We've all seen pictures where tanks had burst through a building and all it did was put a big hole in the wall. Were the Ramm do that, the same thing would happen....sure, it'd rattle the enemy inside, but it wouldn't bring 'em down. However, where is one guaranteed location of a building's support structure? A corner. If possible, wouldn't it be better to hit a building's corner at an angle at full speed and drive right through? I can visualize a couple of benefits to this: 1) less debris falling on top of the tank with more going to the sides, 2) not likely to get stuck and become a sitting duck, 3) not likely to scream "Scheiße!" and drop your tank into the building's basement which guarantee's sitting-duck status, and 4) by driving past, and pivoting a couple of times, you put yourself in a position to ram another corner. Just some thoughts.
The short answer to your question Jim, is I've inadvertently "fixed" the problem and ultimately the vehicle will stick close to the original ideal....albiet, longer.
Mike
I think the "issue" with the opening on the front with regards to debris, is a valid one. Now, based on the models out there that have already been done, and the plans that are out there, this would be an issue....one that Darren is solving by creating a "production" vehicle without the opening.
With mine, and adhering to the plans ( ) scaled up to 107%, it actually doesn't have that great a problem:
The plans have the hull sides and top at least 1/2-inch too long, if not more (couple of post's up I indicate this). So, with the "snout" out there further, the opening is greater....the debris is more likely to fall through to the ground versus getting hung up on the tank's front end. Yep, an error on my part for not checking length like I did the width...but an error that "makes sense?" Because the snout's out more, I will "reinforce" the blade at the underside by using some "I-beam" (smaller than the hull's frame).
Here's something else to think about regarding deployment of the RammTiger: Would the commander have his driver ram into the center of a building? We've all seen pictures where tanks had burst through a building and all it did was put a big hole in the wall. Were the Ramm do that, the same thing would happen....sure, it'd rattle the enemy inside, but it wouldn't bring 'em down. However, where is one guaranteed location of a building's support structure? A corner. If possible, wouldn't it be better to hit a building's corner at an angle at full speed and drive right through? I can visualize a couple of benefits to this: 1) less debris falling on top of the tank with more going to the sides, 2) not likely to get stuck and become a sitting duck, 3) not likely to scream "Scheiße!" and drop your tank into the building's basement which guarantee's sitting-duck status, and 4) by driving past, and pivoting a couple of times, you put yourself in a position to ram another corner. Just some thoughts.
The short answer to your question Jim, is I've inadvertently "fixed" the problem and ultimately the vehicle will stick close to the original ideal....albiet, longer.
Mike
Bratushka
Indiana, United States
Joined: May 09, 2008
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 657 posts
Joined: May 09, 2008
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 657 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 12, 2008 - 04:21 AM UTC
Mike: indeed you have solved the problem! a happy accident! i thought the snout on the images at the link i included seemed longer than the initial plans and that your recent images actually resembled them more closely.
i believe you are also absolutely correct in your bringing down the house analogy. there would be much more to be gained taking out the corners where the stucture would be supported.
i believe you are also absolutely correct in your bringing down the house analogy. there would be much more to be gained taking out the corners where the stucture would be supported.
TacFireGuru
Colorado, United States
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 13, 2008 - 01:13 AM UTC
Good morning all.
The final dark yellow is down and I've shot the road wheels and front sprockets:
Here's a closer shot, but with a question too:
Within the three black circles here, are what I assume are bumpers for the road wheel arms? Would these be flat black/rubber? None of the references I have really show this.....
Mike
The final dark yellow is down and I've shot the road wheels and front sprockets:
Here's a closer shot, but with a question too:
Within the three black circles here, are what I assume are bumpers for the road wheel arms? Would these be flat black/rubber? None of the references I have really show this.....
Mike
moose421
Alabama, United States
Joined: April 19, 2008
KitMaker: 46 posts
Armorama: 36 posts
Joined: April 19, 2008
KitMaker: 46 posts
Armorama: 36 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 13, 2008 - 05:37 AM UTC
I to have thought on how to employ this vehicle. My thoughts were that the crew would ram into the building, but not though. Basically making a big hole for the infantry to charge into it. Also making multiple holes would help as well. This I think would solve the jamming problem. The debris would fall onto the vehicle and opening then the crew would back the vehicle away, thus not getting jammed in the building. This would also prevent the basement problem. WIth that line of thinking is how I went about building my rammtiger.
TacFireGuru
Colorado, United States
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 13, 2008 - 08:47 AM UTC
Quoted Text
My thoughts were that the crew would ram into the building, but not though.
I still have the thoughts that if they were to hit the building "center mass," it'll do little other than create an opening for the grunts to follow through with. Why not, with one or two "fell swoops," bring it down upon the bad-guy's heads? If it didn't "come down," there's still the openings for the grunt's and their close-assualt weapons...to wit, a very effective flame thrower! Granted, this is all subjective....we've all got ideas of how best to deploy the RammTiger....and this is a really kool side-note to this build..."What if, and, how would be the best way to employ it."
With that, I've finalized the back end.....center step and the steps to reach the back doors:
I've also added hinge bolts for the doors from the Verlinden "Rivet" set.
Mike
Posted: Sunday, July 13, 2008 - 07:12 PM UTC
I have followed your build and I like what you have built so far, I have avoided getting too involved in case I send you in another direction or colour your build. However there is one thing I really don’t understand about the rear end of the RammTiger which is why the huge rear door? Entry I would have thought, would be easier by going under and up, or am I wrong? The driver and gunner would enter via the front or am I wrong? There is no ammo so what was the thought behind it on the blueprints?
I will say I was very impressed with the support structures I have seen built so far, they are really well thought out and very well rendered. I am also impressed with the quality of the scratch building that has been exhibited in this campaign, which despite being a relatively easy build we have managed to make it a lot harder than it should have been, overcoming problems of our own making. Excellent work Mike I just wish I could build as cleanly as you.
I will say I was very impressed with the support structures I have seen built so far, they are really well thought out and very well rendered. I am also impressed with the quality of the scratch building that has been exhibited in this campaign, which despite being a relatively easy build we have managed to make it a lot harder than it should have been, overcoming problems of our own making. Excellent work Mike I just wish I could build as cleanly as you.
TacFireGuru
Colorado, United States
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Posted: Monday, July 14, 2008 - 02:43 AM UTC
Quoted Text
However there is one thing I really don’t understand about the rear end of the RammTiger which is why the huge rear door? Entry I would have thought, would be easier by going under and up, or am I wrong? The driver and gunner would enter via the front or am I wrong? There is no ammo so what was the thought behind it on the blueprints?
Hmmmm....my thoughts on the back end: The large doors would allow access to the engine deck. Granted, the mechanics certainly couldn't pull a "pack" with the Ramm hull in place (something Kim worked out with the access panel on top of the hull), but general maintenance? Larger door, more "maneuver" room, more light in? I'm thinking "general maintenance" because the distance from the engine deck to hull top is limited...crawlspace more likely. Which leads me to now wonder if there's enough room, as is, for the engine access panel(s) to open.
Based on the way this one is building, there could be room for someone to slip between the hull and the tank's back end....certainly not a Sergeant Schultz tho! Access to the "conning tower" would either be through the top hatch, or through the hull's rear doors and then the conning tower's rear hatch.
The driver and gunner would have ample room to go through the hull's large front opening (or under the snout) and into their respective positions.
Quoted Text
I am also impressed with the quality of the scratch building that has been exhibited in this campaign, which despite being a relatively easy build we have managed to make it a lot harder than it should have been, overcoming problems of our own making
How right you are. I think originally, most probably believed that all you had to do was build an angled box and plop it on top of a tank. Technically, that's all that needs to be done. But....some of the discussions during the various builds have brought out...thoughts, considerations, and questions. HOW would this work? HOW could this work? We've gone from a pretty straight forward build to builds that are trying to answer some of these ponderings. I can simply use your build as proof-positive....you've certainly taken your's six steps ahead of mine!
Every build I've seen of this vehicle (here and elsewhere) has been a modification....they've added an armored hull to the chassis and created a ram. You on the other hand, have taken an idea, put it to paper, built a mock up (I'll use your first one as that example), modified the plans, found the weakness', and now have a "production" vehicle being produced. Hmmm...sense some similarities?
Oh, forgot to mention....the "double-step" on the back end is two strands of very thin wire twisted pretty tight by hand to create a "wire rope," and two pieces of scrap diamond plate that were drilled at each end....wire ladder basically....much like the cab steps of a lot of tactical vehicles.
I'm at a juncture in this build where I either go forward full-blast, or hang tight until I get back from Germany. I don't want to get started on one step only to have to stop for my trip. Most I can see doing between now and Thursday is maybe spraying the inside of the hull in red-brown. I've got too many things to get done and gather up before I fly out Friday morning.
Mike
Posted: Monday, July 14, 2008 - 04:10 AM UTC
Have a good trip Mike and remember German beer is a damn site stronger than American.
TacFireGuru
Colorado, United States
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Posted: Monday, July 14, 2008 - 01:21 PM UTC
Ah yes, good German beer. Well I know how it is...I've got 10 years over there.
Anyhow, here's how it looks right now (and how it will be until I get back):
The Ramm hull is done as far as major construction goes. The tank's road wheels and drive sprockets are not glued on. Pretty much all that's left is a bit of detailing - adding the conning tower hatch and the hull hatch, a little clean up to the inside of the back doors, and then....paint. I haven't decided on the hull's final paint scheme, but I'm sure I will use a huge smattering of "artistic license." I'm leaning towards a three-tone, but with hard a edge and all straight edges....no wavy camo. (similar to emre's [emroglan's] E-100 for the "Experimental's Campaign" - I can't find it now, but there was IIRC, an actual photo of a vehicle posted with a similar scheme...gotta look more when I get back)
So, there it is (for the time being).
Edit: Well, with it set like it is, I took a gander through the back doors and it does appear that the engine deck would open. It also appears that with the Tiger VI (P), there are NO front hatches! Doh! So, the driver and gunner would be required to enter and exit through the conning tower. Hehehe. Totally missed that before....
Mike
If there happen to be any fellow modeler's that live close to Hanau or Schweinfurt, Germany, drop me a line. Most of my time will be in Hanau with probably a day in Schweinfurt.
Anyhow, here's how it looks right now (and how it will be until I get back):
The Ramm hull is done as far as major construction goes. The tank's road wheels and drive sprockets are not glued on. Pretty much all that's left is a bit of detailing - adding the conning tower hatch and the hull hatch, a little clean up to the inside of the back doors, and then....paint. I haven't decided on the hull's final paint scheme, but I'm sure I will use a huge smattering of "artistic license." I'm leaning towards a three-tone, but with hard a edge and all straight edges....no wavy camo. (similar to emre's [emroglan's] E-100 for the "Experimental's Campaign" - I can't find it now, but there was IIRC, an actual photo of a vehicle posted with a similar scheme...gotta look more when I get back)
So, there it is (for the time being).
Edit: Well, with it set like it is, I took a gander through the back doors and it does appear that the engine deck would open. It also appears that with the Tiger VI (P), there are NO front hatches! Doh! So, the driver and gunner would be required to enter and exit through the conning tower. Hehehe. Totally missed that before....
Mike
If there happen to be any fellow modeler's that live close to Hanau or Schweinfurt, Germany, drop me a line. Most of my time will be in Hanau with probably a day in Schweinfurt.
Posted: Monday, July 14, 2008 - 06:08 PM UTC
Have a safe trip and I look forward to the finished product on your return.
c5flies
California, United States
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 03, 2008 - 01:59 PM UTC
Well, we got Darren off his butt and you're back from Germany, so cough it up Mike! C'mon, you're almost there
TacFireGuru
Colorado, United States
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Posted: Friday, August 08, 2008 - 04:14 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Well, we got Darren off his butt and you're back from Germany, so cough it up Mike! C'mon, you're almost there
Yea, yea, yea....I know....we've been riding Darren (All in Jest Darren, all in jest! )....I'll be getting off my backside shortly. I must finish my Flying Tank first....that campaign ends in a week.
Quick question - anyone know of a link that may discuss the painting of the Dragon-Styrene tracks? If I had a set of Friul's, I'd use those, but.....
Anyhow, couple more days on the A-40 and I'll be able to get busy on the my RammTiggy.
Mike
TacFireGuru
Colorado, United States
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Posted: Friday, August 08, 2008 - 04:41 AM UTC
Hey, been thinking about the paint. This is kind of what I'm looking at doing. Please realize the colors are off as I used MS Paint, and I'm colorblind, but I think you'll get the idea:
Whatcha think?
Mike
Whatcha think?
Mike
Posted: Friday, August 08, 2008 - 09:48 AM UTC
That green made me blind LMAO, the scheme should work though, give Herbert a shout he will be able to point you in a direction reference paint schemes and the time period. The Dragon styrene tracks I treat just like plastic.
TacFireGuru
Colorado, United States
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Posted: Friday, August 08, 2008 - 10:46 AM UTC
Quoted Text
That green made me blind LMAO
I did in fact state that I'm color blind!! Heheheheh! Just had my brother look at the colors and kind of tell me what they were.....Oy Vey!!! Did I get them wrong!!! I have, or will have, the appropriate yellow, green, and brown when I do this. The other idea, hey this is a "what-if," I had was to use the afore mentioned colors, but in a 90's Berlin Brigade pattern. Still not sure just which way I'll go....
Mike
Posted: Friday, August 08, 2008 - 11:02 AM UTC
I suppose the closest equal would be a splinter camo scheme, as for what if wait until you see what I have planned.