I finally managed to start my build today. I am using AFV club’s AF35126 M1126 Stryker kit along with REAL Models ISAF Canadian LAVIII conversion. I started by washing all the resin in a alcohol bath to make sure that all of the mould release came off.
I decided to follow the AFV club instructions for steps 1 thru 3 which I completed today. In step 1 (Figures 1 &2) add added all of the parts except part F29, C22 and C23. I will add F29 at the end of the build and parts C22 and C23 once I add Real Models upper hull.


Figure 1. Step 1


Figure 2. Step 1

Step 2 went off without a hitch, there were some small injector pin marks to clean up on the insides of pare A2, 10, 11 and, 12 (Figure 3).


Figure 3. Step 2

In step 3 I decided not to attach parts A20 and 21 (Figure 4 and 5). I thought that I could align them better if I attached them in step 4.


Figure 4.


Figure 5.


Tankleader's Blog

It looks good so far! Im using the exact same base kit, but Im using the AEF conversion for mine. It will be interesting to see how mch difference there is with your Real Models. Perhaps I should start a parallel thread when mine finally arrives?

Cheers,
Keith

Sounds like a good idea Keith.

Tanks
Andy

Hi

I have both .... actually I have two of the AEF ones and if you were lucky and got one of the first pulls you are fine but I found the quality had dropped off for my second. The Real Model offers all the extra etch and goodies which will make the Real one stand out that much more. You will need to do some work to the AEF one ..

Now, if you want a nice simple LAV III, the AEF kit is viable option especially if you are not comfortable working with etch.

Tom

Today I started with step 4 of the AFV club instruction sheet. This step was quite simple and no major issues were encountered. I first attached parts A20 and A21 that I left off in step 3. I believe that this was a good choice since I can see many people getting frustrated in trying to maintain proper alignment of the wheel struts in step 3. Parts A17-19 are a little tricky to get square too each other. I decided to add parts A18 and A19 to the hull first and then align part A18 on top. To get the parts square I used a pair of tweezers to hold parts A18 and A19 square while attaching part A18. (Figure 1).


Figure 1. Step 4

Step 5 was very easy and quick, there was some minor flash cleanup on all parts, especially parts A13 and A14 (Figure 2).


Figure 2. Step 5

I decided to step away from the normal procedure here and started to clean up the resin upper hull from Real Models. I was initially concerned that I would cut to close to the hull and really mess things up. I started by using my dremel cutting wheel on the lowest setting and cutting the pour block down to about the width of a pencil lead. Once I had a real thin sliver of resin remaining I used my Xacto saw and cut off the remaining resin. Some dry fitting revealed that the only thing I would need to-do for a flush fit is to cut away the pour blocks on the Real Model’s upper hull part 1. There was a small air bubble that needed filling just behind the turret opening on the upper hull, which I filled with a bit of super glue and accelerator. Figures 3 & 4 shows the upper hull part 1 with the resin pour blocks removed.


Figure 3. Upper Hull part 1, left side.


Figure 4. Upper Hull part 1, right side.

I’m now contemplating step 6 in the AFV club instructions as well as looking at Real Models resin wheels. Looking at them side by side (Figure 5), there is no distinguishable difference between the two. Looking at Real Models instruction sheet you can see that at one point the kit was built with the AFV club tires and then switched to resin (see sheet two of the real model instructions). I think that I will use AFV clubs tires with the photo etch provided by Real Model.


Figure 5. Tire Comparison.

Tankleader's Blog

Tanks
Andy

Hi Andreas
Looking good.... I will also use the AFV club kit tires and wheels with the RealModel PE. The resin wheels are really nice with a little flat spot at the bottom, but the Michelin X logo is in the same spot on every tire......bummer.

Watch out of the upper hull fit at the rear. I found the height of the resin upper hull to be a little short right at the back. It's possible I cut a little close but I don't think so.

Isn't the running gear nice on the AFV Club kit? I turned the front four wheels a bit to give it an animated look.



bob

Bob,
I took some basic measurements of the REAL model hull compared to the AFV club hull. At the rear from the mating sufaces to the top AFV measures 26mm and RM measures 19mm (I will add this to my blog). I will check some of my sources, but this could be the differences between one being a Stryker varian and the other APC.

Tanks
Andy

This afternoon has been a real pain (no offense intended Real Models). I’ve heard from a number of people that the Real Model Hull is shorter than the AFV club one. It is but that is mainly based on the fact that the Stryker and the LAVIII variants (Canada and New Zealand) have a different style upper hulls. The rear hull from bottom (glue joint to top measures 27mm, my source measures to a scaled 26.11mm so .90mm off isn’t too bad. Now the Real Model hull measure 22mm from top to bottom. Most people assumed that the AFV club donor parts are just a drop in replacement, guess what. “They aren’t.” Look at the last page of the real model instructions and you will se a note to cut the rear part of the AFV off. Another clue is looking at the various shots in the photo etch section you will see a modified part E1. Real model could have included a template to perhaps make this a little easier. In Figure 1, I show AFV part E1 tacked to the Real Model upper hull and AFV lower hull.


Figure 1. Unmodified Hull

Looking at Figure 1, it becomes obvious that this part needs to be modified. Using a fine tip permanent marker I marked the overhanging areas and broke out my trusty saw (Figure 2).


Figure 2. Modified AFV part E1

I continually dry fit part E1 to the hull and resin upper hull until I was satisfied that this is as close a fit as I could get (Figure 3 & 4).


Figure 3. Modified Rear E1


Figure 4. Modified part E1 Final

I will need to add some filler at the top of part E1 and the resin hull. I had hoped that Figure 4 would turn out better but every time I set it down it would separate at the top. I will post some more pictures once I glue it all together.


Tanks
Andy

Tankleader's Blog

Good work Andy.
It would have been so much simpler had Real Model included a suitable resin replacement for E1.

I'll start a thread for my Real Model NZLAV conversion tomorrow. I've encountered the same problem but taken a slightly different route to solve it. Not sure if it was the right decision yet, only time will tell.

Today I decided to finish cleaning up the seam between part E1 and Real Models Hull. I used thick super glue to seal the gaps between part E1 and the hull (Figure 1). This was the gap that was left after I had modified part E1 during day 2. . The image doesn’t really due justice to how well the super glue sealed the gaps, here it still looks as if they need sealing. Edit The gap that is apparent in Figure 1 is a result of my modification to part E1 and a little too much sanding. What still appears to be a gap was actually sealed with gap filling super glue.


Figure 1. Sealed Hull using thick super glue

I then used some white out to seal the remaining gaps (Figure 2). I still need to do a little cleaning up, but I didn’t think it turned out too bad. EDIT The White out actually makes the gap seem larger than it really is. I just realized that it makes it seem like I had a really huge gap. Figure 1 is actually better for judging the actual gap between the hull and the modified part E1.


Figure 2. Sealed hull using white out

With the rear hull now sealed I decided to go back to step 6 and tackle the tire assemblies. Looking at the resin tires and what was available in the kit, I decided on the kit tires with Real Models photo etch. I used my handy brass etch rolling set (Figure 3 & 4) to form the rings photo etch part 160.


Figure 3. Rolling part 160


Figure 4. Rolled photo etch part 160


The result of using the kit tires and the photo etch was a nice looking set of tires (Figure 5).


Figure 5. Step 6 completed tires.


Tanks
Andy

Tankleader's Blog

Andreas
I'm following along, I've got one on my shelf and it certainly helps to see how you tackle the issues as they arise. I'm a bit surprised by the substantial gap you had to deal with at the rear or the LAV. The plans make it look like an easy transition. That's a handy etch roller you have there.
I look forward to your next installment, good luck with the build.
Regards
Bill

Bill,
I would have thought since part E1 needed modifiying that Real Model would have included a template. A bit of trial and error was needed but it worked out in the end.

Tanks
Andy

Perhaps you could make the template for the rest of us that follow?
It is an impressive kit non the less, I've never seen anything quite so complete before. I'll watch for updates,I am subscribed to this.
Good Luck
Bill

Andy,
Bill's template idea is a good one. You might even want to send it to Milo so he can include it in his kits. Milo is very good about wanting to send out good kits to his customers and i know he is willing to accept any suggestions to improve his kits. As a matter of fact, I hope he reads this and i will suggest him adding hex rod to his kits for all those bolt heads that make his models stand out even more. Milo and Real Models is one company i don't ever want to see go away.

Hey Andy, why don't you do a build review of the kit. So far you found a slight hick up in the kit and a fix was suggested.

Who's gonna get theirs done first? I still have to build the slat for my Stryker.

Pete,
I guess I could do a build review, in conjuntion with the blog I'm keeping. I've been keeping notes and my original posts in MS Word. I haven't checked but thought that someone else had already done one. I've been trying to contact MILO without luck because I do have a few suggestions for him. I didn't thing about making a pattern since I was concentrating on getting the components mated.

Tanks
Andy

Nope, nothing in the review section as an official review of it.

Milo will respond, just takes a little while since he is so busy getting stuff out. Did you try emailing him from his Real Model's web sight?

[quote] Today I decided to finish cleaning up the seam between part E1 and Real Models Hull. I used thick super glue to seal the gaps between part E1 and the hull (Figure 1). This was the gap that was left after I had modified part E1 during day 2. . The image doesn’t really due justice to how well the super glue sealed the gaps, here it still looks as if they need sealing.


Figure 1. Sealed Hull using thick super glue

I then used some white out to seal the remaining gaps (Figure 2). I still need to do a little cleaning up, but I didn’t think it turned out too bad.


Figure 2. Sealed hull using white out


Hi,
I don`t have problem with rear hull part bud I can prepare this part for next models as new resin parts.
Here is photo my LAV III (rear site).
Miloslav

Miloslav,

Great product, I've entered the photo etch bending phase of construction. I hope you aren't taking my blog or build in a negative way. Based on emails and other posts I think that people though the parts where drop in replacements. I will send you an offline email / message.

Tanks
Andy

I think you hit the nail on the head Andy.....this is a conversion...and it takes a bit of modifying here and there to bring all the pieces together.

The old saying..."measure it twice and cut once" comes into play with any conversion kit.

Good work, keep it going.

Andy,

Im up to step 5 on mine, and have just finished washing all the resin on my AEF conversion....I sure am jealous of all the PE with yours lol!

Ive noticed a few holes so far, nothing a bit of putty and shaping wont cure. The baskets on the turret are a little iffy as well. So far from what I've seen on yours here, yours is definitly the superior casting, and all that PE is pretty sweet. I still need to get a barrel for mine, as the 25mm fluted barrel included with mine is just too rough to clean up to a usable fashion.

Excellent work so far, keep it up!

Cheers,

Today, I started on the path to madness by assembling some of the first photo etch parts. I did the hull sponson boxes which normally contains tire chalks and chains part A9 (Figure 1).


Figure 1. Part A9

I also decided to work on the main supports for the stowage bin on the back of the hull; I discovered that the parts label for the left should list part 25 vice 24. I’m still in the process of working on these brackets (Figure 2).




Figure 2. Stowage box supports

While the glue was drying on the photo etch I decided to remove the pour block from the turret. The block came off easily using my hand saw and clean up was simple. Figure 3 shows the turret in the process of being sanded and cleaned. There are view small holes visible that will need some filling.


Figure 3. Turret Bottom

The front of the turret needs to have the eject port for the 25mm spent cartridges drilled out. This ejection port is located above the forward extension on the gun mantlet (Figure 4).


Figure 4. Ejection Port


I just couldn’t resist so I included a shot of the turret sitting on the hull (Figure 5).


Figure 5. Basic Vehicle Outline


Tanks
Andy
Tankleader's Blog

Now you know how i felt when I did all the brass on my M1127 RV! And I still need to do the slat armor, ARGH!!!!!!!!

Looking good Andy.

Pete, would you mind sharing your secret for getting such great joints on the photo etch. I'm using a combination of applicators and thick and thin super glue but really feel that I'm missing something. I can get some parts to join really easy and others are just such a pain. What's your secret?

Tanks
Andy

Actually Andy, there is no secrete. Some of these guys go gaga over that Hold N Fold Etch Mate thing a mu jig or soldering thier parts, but all I use is a metal ruler, a razor blade, a pair of tweezers I got in the make up section at WalMart, and regular ole Duro super glue. Once I get the bend with the ruler and razor blade, I use the tweezers to munipulate the part into shape if it doesn't look right.

Where are you having trouble, because from what I see, it looks good?

As Pete said, it's looking fine Andy. That p.e. looks nice and fiddly