Thanks for looking and feel free to comment.
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DML 1/35 Sd.Kfz.181 Tiger I Early Version
brucca111
Joined: September 10, 2006
KitMaker: 184 posts
Armorama: 183 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 17, 2008 - 09:21 AM UTC
My next project is a another Tiger from the 502 in Spring of 1943. The base kit will be DML’s Fehrmann’s Tiger, using DML’s Initial Kits wheels and all of the other goodies displayed below. I may photo the items below over, due to the fact I don’t like the way they look.
Thanks for looking and feel free to comment.
Thanks for looking and feel free to comment.
Belt_Fed
Joined: February 02, 2008
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
Armorama: 1,325 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 17, 2008 - 02:14 PM UTC
I really hope this kit works out well, it looks like you have ALOT of money invested in it
whittman181
Joined: December 30, 2006
KitMaker: 646 posts
Armorama: 473 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 17, 2008 - 04:11 PM UTC
Yes , I agree. 
Good luck and I look forward to the build. thanks , Bob
Good luck and I look forward to the build. thanks , Bob 
Byrden
Joined: July 12, 2005
KitMaker: 2,233 posts
Armorama: 2,221 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 17, 2008 - 09:34 PM UTC
Nicholas;
The tank had a HL 210 engine, so you should use part Y-9 rather than Y-7. That's assuming that you have a Y-9 in your box. Dragon sometimes clip off unused parts.
I don't like the look of those bases for the TMD S-mines, they look square whereas the real ones had a pointed front. See the sprue part G-3 which is correct.
The tank had the frames on the rear hull, so you'll have to cut off the molded-on hinges and use parts G-29 and G-30. I have clipped out some of the instructions from the "Wittman" kit which explain what to do.
David
The tank had a HL 210 engine, so you should use part Y-9 rather than Y-7. That's assuming that you have a Y-9 in your box. Dragon sometimes clip off unused parts.
I don't like the look of those bases for the TMD S-mines, they look square whereas the real ones had a pointed front. See the sprue part G-3 which is correct.
The tank had the frames on the rear hull, so you'll have to cut off the molded-on hinges and use parts G-29 and G-30. I have clipped out some of the instructions from the "Wittman" kit which explain what to do.
David
brucca111
Joined: September 10, 2006
KitMaker: 184 posts
Armorama: 183 posts
Posted: Friday, July 18, 2008 - 08:01 AM UTC
So I began to begin this project today, and, I must admit, I kinda underestimated the time it would take to complete steps 1 and 2 in the instructions. Originally, I had thought that I would be able to start at 9am and be finished by 10:30; man, I was wrong. I was not finished until 1:30pm!
Pics 1 and 2: Most of the work was me sanding and filing torsion bars that no one could see. But, then again, I might still add a partial “through the hatches” interior. So I guess it wasn’t a complete waste of time!
Pics 3 and 4: I wanted to have the drive sprockets be able to spin in an effort to make attaching the tracks easier, so I drilled a small deep hole in the rod, and glued in a peg.
Pic 5: I then glued on the other half of the drive sprocket.
Pics 6 and 7: Both the Frui tracks and the DML Initial kits wheels were bought on Ebay. Luckily for me, the tracks were about 75% completed by their previous owner.
What’s next? The rear hull and who knows what else!
Thanks for looking and feel free to comment.
Nick
Pics 1 and 2: Most of the work was me sanding and filing torsion bars that no one could see. But, then again, I might still add a partial “through the hatches” interior. So I guess it wasn’t a complete waste of time!
Pics 3 and 4: I wanted to have the drive sprockets be able to spin in an effort to make attaching the tracks easier, so I drilled a small deep hole in the rod, and glued in a peg.
Pic 5: I then glued on the other half of the drive sprocket.
Pics 6 and 7: Both the Frui tracks and the DML Initial kits wheels were bought on Ebay. Luckily for me, the tracks were about 75% completed by their previous owner.
What’s next? The rear hull and who knows what else!
Thanks for looking and feel free to comment.
Nick
brucca111
Joined: September 10, 2006
KitMaker: 184 posts
Armorama: 183 posts
Posted: Friday, July 18, 2008 - 08:03 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I really hope this kit works out well, it looks like you have ALOT of money invested in it
Thanks Jon, so do I!
Nick
brucca111
Joined: September 10, 2006
KitMaker: 184 posts
Armorama: 183 posts
Posted: Friday, July 18, 2008 - 08:03 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Yes , I agree.
Thanks BOB
Nick
brucca111
Joined: September 10, 2006
KitMaker: 184 posts
Armorama: 183 posts
Posted: Friday, July 18, 2008 - 08:09 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Nicholas;
The tank had a HL 210 engine, so you should use part Y-9 rather than Y-7. That's assuming that you have a Y-9 in your box. Dragon sometimes clip off unused parts.
I don't like the look of those bases for the TMD S-mines, they look square whereas the real ones had a pointed front. See the sprue part G-3 which is correct.
The tank had the frames on the rear hull, so you'll have to cut off the molded-on hinges and use parts G-29 and G-30. I have clipped out some of the instructions from the "Wittman" kit which explain what to do.
David
Thanks David, I find your input to be very important in order for me to make an accurate Tiger. The kit did include Y-9, so I guess I am lucky! The TMD s-mines are as you described, I decided to use DML's instead. Lastly, Thanks for displaying the instructions sheet on how to produce an accurate rear hull, in addition to your written instructions. I really appreciate it.
Thanks again
Nick
Byrden
Joined: July 12, 2005
KitMaker: 2,233 posts
Armorama: 2,221 posts
Posted: Friday, July 18, 2008 - 09:08 AM UTC
Nick:
Here's a whole bunch of photos of 312.
It's clear the tank had the old Tiger (P) flat mantlet, so use part A7.
The tank in the photos is on service and has its Feifels removed. The Fehrmann kit was tooled to correctly represent the welded mounts of missing Feifels, so you could copy the photos. But if you want to use your resin Feifels and model the tank earlier in its life, go ahead, as they are the correct type.
The kit gives you 2 alternative ways to build the engine hatch, you should use this one:
The bad news is: the tank had the newer road wheels with 12 bolts evenly spaced. And the kit doesn't include the track cable on the left hand side, just the empty mounts.
David
Here's a whole bunch of photos of 312.
It's clear the tank had the old Tiger (P) flat mantlet, so use part A7.
The tank in the photos is on service and has its Feifels removed. The Fehrmann kit was tooled to correctly represent the welded mounts of missing Feifels, so you could copy the photos. But if you want to use your resin Feifels and model the tank earlier in its life, go ahead, as they are the correct type.
The kit gives you 2 alternative ways to build the engine hatch, you should use this one:
The bad news is: the tank had the newer road wheels with 12 bolts evenly spaced. And the kit doesn't include the track cable on the left hand side, just the empty mounts.
David
brucca111
Joined: September 10, 2006
KitMaker: 184 posts
Armorama: 183 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 19, 2008 - 01:43 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Nick:
Here's a whole bunch of photos of 312.
It's clear the tank had the old Tiger (P) flat mantlet, so use part A7.
The tank in the photos is on service and has its Feifels removed. The Fehrmann kit was tooled to correctly represent the welded mounts of missing Feifels, so you could copy the photos. But if you want to use your resin Feifels and model the tank earlier in its life, go ahead, as they are the correct type.
The kit gives you 2 alternative ways to build the engine hatch, you should use this one:
The bad news is: the tank had the newer road wheels with 12 bolts evenly spaced. And the kit doesn't include the track cable on the left hand side, just the empty mounts.
David
Thanks again David for your help. Is there any available accurate wheels for this version? I do have a set of wheels that came with the Wittman tank?
Thanks again
Nick
Byrden
Joined: July 12, 2005
KitMaker: 2,233 posts
Armorama: 2,221 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 19, 2008 - 02:39 AM UTC
Nick:
Email me please.
David
Email me please.
David
brucca111
Joined: September 10, 2006
KitMaker: 184 posts
Armorama: 183 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 19, 2008 - 02:50 AM UTC
David. Please check your inbox on this site. I don't have your email and i left you my email.
Thanks again
Nick
Thanks again
Nick
Byrden
Joined: July 12, 2005
KitMaker: 2,233 posts
Armorama: 2,221 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 19, 2008 - 03:26 AM UTC
I found even more photos of the tank.
It had no vision holes above the driver's visor, so you'll have to fill those.
As for the wheels; the bolts aren't visible until the 4th row of wheels, so this isn't a very obvious problem. You might try correcting some or all of the 4th row wheels on their outer sides. They already have 6 of the 12 bolts molded on.
Tamiya's Mid does not have correct wheels as far as I can see in photos. Neither is the Modelkasten set correct.
David
It had no vision holes above the driver's visor, so you'll have to fill those.
As for the wheels; the bolts aren't visible until the 4th row of wheels, so this isn't a very obvious problem. You might try correcting some or all of the 4th row wheels on their outer sides. They already have 6 of the 12 bolts molded on.
Tamiya's Mid does not have correct wheels as far as I can see in photos. Neither is the Modelkasten set correct.
David
rustey
Joined: June 23, 2007
KitMaker: 101 posts
Armorama: 24 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 19, 2008 - 07:37 AM UTC
nice build so far!
is dragon actually going to release a normal tiger 1 early just like tamiya?
regards
Jens
is dragon actually going to release a normal tiger 1 early just like tamiya?
regards
Jens
brucca111
Joined: September 10, 2006
KitMaker: 184 posts
Armorama: 183 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 19, 2008 - 07:59 AM UTC
Quoted Text
nice build so far!
is dragon actually going to release a normal tiger 1 early just like tamiya?
regards
Jens
Thanks Jens! When will Dragon make an early Tiger I? I do not know, but when or if they do I will buy them by the case!
Nick
brucca111
Joined: September 10, 2006
KitMaker: 184 posts
Armorama: 183 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 20, 2008 - 03:54 AM UTC
I began work on the rear panel.
The rear panel is part F3. The brass exhaust covers are from Dragon’s First Late Tiger I. I chose to use Dragons armored cast exhaust covers instead of Tiger Model Designs because they are more accurate, although hey lack casting numbers. I texturized, (is this a word?) them too, with Tamiya primer applied with an old stiff paint brush. Lastly, I plan on using Voyager models rear mud flaps in place of Dragon’s. I just hope I don’t ruin them, they are delicate! I decided not to use Voyager’s resin air filters because I want to model the tank based on a particular time period, in which photographic evidence shows that the filters were removed by late spring 1943.
The exhaust stacks will assembled based on the instruction booklet from the Wittmann kit.
I would just like to thank David Bryden of Tiger1.info for all of his help and for posting the page of Wittman’s instructions.
What’s next? The completion of the rear hull and who knows what else!
Thanks for looking and feel free to comment.
Nick
The rear panel is part F3. The brass exhaust covers are from Dragon’s First Late Tiger I. I chose to use Dragons armored cast exhaust covers instead of Tiger Model Designs because they are more accurate, although hey lack casting numbers. I texturized, (is this a word?) them too, with Tamiya primer applied with an old stiff paint brush. Lastly, I plan on using Voyager models rear mud flaps in place of Dragon’s. I just hope I don’t ruin them, they are delicate! I decided not to use Voyager’s resin air filters because I want to model the tank based on a particular time period, in which photographic evidence shows that the filters were removed by late spring 1943.
The exhaust stacks will assembled based on the instruction booklet from the Wittmann kit.
I would just like to thank David Bryden of Tiger1.info for all of his help and for posting the page of Wittman’s instructions.
What’s next? The completion of the rear hull and who knows what else!
Thanks for looking and feel free to comment.
Nick
brucca111
Joined: September 10, 2006
KitMaker: 184 posts
Armorama: 183 posts
Posted: Friday, July 25, 2008 - 04:28 AM UTC
Today I present a small update.
The rear hull is now complete.
I attempted to build Voyager’s rear mud flaps, but I broke one of them, so, therefore, I decided just to use plastic ones that come with the Fehrmann kit. They were modified as directed by the Wittmann’s kit directions to represent the correct type.
I think I might show the rear compartment with the air fans and radiators, so I filled in 4 small round holes with plastic rod and covered up more small holes with two strips of styrene stock.
What’s next? The completion of the hull and who knows what else!
Thanks for looking and feel free to comment.
Nick
The rear hull is now complete.
I attempted to build Voyager’s rear mud flaps, but I broke one of them, so, therefore, I decided just to use plastic ones that come with the Fehrmann kit. They were modified as directed by the Wittmann’s kit directions to represent the correct type.
I think I might show the rear compartment with the air fans and radiators, so I filled in 4 small round holes with plastic rod and covered up more small holes with two strips of styrene stock.
What’s next? The completion of the hull and who knows what else!
Thanks for looking and feel free to comment.
Nick
Torchy
#047
Joined: September 13, 2005
KitMaker: 2,016 posts
Armorama: 1,187 posts
Posted: Friday, July 25, 2008 - 06:13 AM UTC
looking great,nice clear pics 
Byrden
Joined: July 12, 2005
KitMaker: 2,233 posts
Armorama: 2,221 posts
Posted: Friday, July 25, 2008 - 06:54 AM UTC
Did you file off the nubs on the rear towing pintle holders, as specified in the instructions?
David
David
brucca111
Joined: September 10, 2006
KitMaker: 184 posts
Armorama: 183 posts
Posted: Friday, July 25, 2008 - 07:46 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Did you file off the nubs on the rear towing pintle holders, as specified in the instructions?
David
I just did, thanks David. However, I am starting to wonder if I should had used the Initial bottom hull, in that it has better looking rear towing pintle holders. The modified Fehrmann rear towing pintle holders still dont look like the pic above; especially the top of the pintle holders.
thanks again
Nick
Byrden
Joined: July 12, 2005
KitMaker: 2,233 posts
Armorama: 2,221 posts
Posted: Friday, July 25, 2008 - 08:27 AM UTC
Yes, the top should slant more... can that also be sanded off?
David
David
brucca111
Joined: September 10, 2006
KitMaker: 184 posts
Armorama: 183 posts
Posted: Friday, July 25, 2008 - 08:36 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Yes, the top should slant more... can that also be sanded off?
David
No, it would not look right. But, since i am no quitter, and i don't feel like starting this project from scratch again, i have found a solution to the problem. I will add some styrene stock to the top of pintle holders and then file them down to reproduce the slant. i'll post pics soon.
Thanks again for your input and help.
Nick
brucca111
Joined: September 10, 2006
KitMaker: 184 posts
Armorama: 183 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 26, 2008 - 05:05 AM UTC
I fixed the rear towing pintle holders, thanks again goes to David Byrden for his help and the pic he provided that was paramount in helping me reshape them. All I did was I added styrene strips fixed with Ambroid liquid cement to each of the rear towing pintle holders and then, I sanded them down to the correct shape
P.S. The kit does include the correct rear towing pintle holders on sprue G, in the future, I would just remove the pintle holders from the hull, and replace them with parts G12 and G13, modified of course to fit!
I assembled the radiator/fan/gas-tank assembly and I am about to paint them. Any suggestions anyone which colors I should use?
I had to fill in the sockets that are located on both hull sides. I assume they were placed there so that the cable holders would fit into them, but they did not align properly with the cable holders.
Lastly, some reference material came in the mail today.
What’s next? The completion of the hull and who knows what else!
Thanks for looking and feel free to comment.
Nick
P.S. The kit does include the correct rear towing pintle holders on sprue G, in the future, I would just remove the pintle holders from the hull, and replace them with parts G12 and G13, modified of course to fit!
I assembled the radiator/fan/gas-tank assembly and I am about to paint them. Any suggestions anyone which colors I should use?
I had to fill in the sockets that are located on both hull sides. I assume they were placed there so that the cable holders would fit into them, but they did not align properly with the cable holders.
Lastly, some reference material came in the mail today.
What’s next? The completion of the hull and who knows what else!
Thanks for looking and feel free to comment.
Nick
Byrden
Joined: July 12, 2005
KitMaker: 2,233 posts
Armorama: 2,221 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 26, 2008 - 07:52 AM UTC
Nick:
The fuel tanks were bare metal, I think aluminium, but it doesn't matter as they will be completely hidden.
See: http://tiger1.info/EN/UpperFuelTanks.html
The radiators were black, but given the amount of air going through them, must have got a coating of dust on the rear face.
See: http://tiger1.info/EN/Radiators.html
The fan hubs were bronze coloured, the fan housing and blade were cast white metal.
See: http://tiger1.info/EN/Colours.html
The photoetch surround panels on top of the fans were painted like the rest of the interior compartment; in this case blue-grey.
David
The fuel tanks were bare metal, I think aluminium, but it doesn't matter as they will be completely hidden.
See: http://tiger1.info/EN/UpperFuelTanks.html
The radiators were black, but given the amount of air going through them, must have got a coating of dust on the rear face.
See: http://tiger1.info/EN/Radiators.html
The fan hubs were bronze coloured, the fan housing and blade were cast white metal.
See: http://tiger1.info/EN/Colours.html
The photoetch surround panels on top of the fans were painted like the rest of the interior compartment; in this case blue-grey.
David
brucca111
Joined: September 10, 2006
KitMaker: 184 posts
Armorama: 183 posts
Posted: Monday, July 28, 2008 - 05:16 AM UTC
A very small update today.
I assembled and painted the radiator/fan/gas-tank assembly. I decided to paint the fuel cells primer red, for artistic purposes.
Thanks David for the advice above!
I still have to finish painting the assembly.
What’s next? The completion of the hull and who knows what else!
Thanks for looking and feel free to comment.
Nick
I assembled and painted the radiator/fan/gas-tank assembly. I decided to paint the fuel cells primer red, for artistic purposes.
Thanks David for the advice above!
I still have to finish painting the assembly.
What’s next? The completion of the hull and who knows what else!
Thanks for looking and feel free to comment.
Nick
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