As usual, Ron, I'm looking forward to your finishing/weathering. Also curious on how you attach everything after painting as I usually don't have much luck with that part! Thanks for taking the time to post this

That makes a lot of sense Ron , the gun assembly looks nice. Thanks for the reply , Bob

That looks super Ron. Can't wait to see it with some paint on it. Great job.

Hi Guys, life has done its best to keep me from the bench these last few weeks but i finally found some time to get this one painted up (layed up for 4 days with the flu did it heh) i didnt have the energy or will to actually log the steps but i used my usual methods of acrylic paints and oil washes for weathering etc,, if there is anything in particular needs explaining please ask. I am still experimenting with a new way to photograph my finished builds and i do like the direction its going.



















All comments are welcome.

Ron.

Excellent job, I love the paint job you've done

Hi Ron, it's funny that I've been thinning out my WWII collection and then I see what you've done with this kit. I built the Tamiya kit twice, but am planning on getting this little gem because it looks so awesome. Bravo to your job well done!

You've done a beautiful job on the Marder Ron. It was a great build to watch and thanks for showing your progress Bob

Great build log and Marder Ron! Nicely done, came out well. Like your paint job, I think I'd have picked it as well, that first one looks way too challenging!

Cheers -
Tim

Beautifully finished Ron !!
I like the subtle weathering and chipping !!!
Cheers

jjumbo

looks heavy man! nice work

you got pm

greetings

koen

Ron,
great build and the finish is superb. Your tracks are the nicest i've seen. Would you mind

explaining how you finished the tracks . Thanks

Frank

P.S. I know its like asking a famous chef how he makes a certain dish, but I thought I'd ask anyway. I'll understand if you don't explain!!!!

Hi Ron, once again you showed us your master-class abilities. Excellent build.
Two questions if you don't mind. Do you apply a filter (s) or some general wash on model? I see all the surface has some nice texture and light brown aspect. I also find your pioneer tools very well painted (especially the wooden parts). So a small explanation on those two points would be great.

Thanks guys for the terrific comments im glad you liked it

Hi Frank, i dont mind at all sharing my techniques if they are of some help to others its really a very easy method,
step 1, the tracks were painted in a flat dark brown i generally use whatever i have laying around.
step 2, they were then dry brushed using Reaper Masterseries "shadowed steel" i use this brand because it is waterbased but any steel colour would work i suppose as long as its a dull steel colour not bright.
step 3, after attaching then to the model they recieved several oil washes along with the rest of the model of combinations of "vandyke brown" and "raw umber"
step 4, next they were treated here and there with a little pigments dry brushed in and roughly brushed off.
step 5, for a final touch i gave them another light drybrushing using graphite dust. (scraped from pencil lead)
Here is a link to a tiger i did using a similar method although i wanted a cleaner look on this one so i didnt use as much mud pigment.
https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/1630&page=3

Hi Pawel thank you for the great comment the Tiger II is looking fantastic it has been fun following the build i look foward to the finish, i do apply many very thin filter/washes usually slopped all over very heavily using combinations of "vandyke brown" and "raw umber" to get a slow build up of the film you refer to it takes some time but i prefere this way to one of two heavy washes which doesnt always get the all over dirty look that i like, this one recieved probably around 10-15 of these washes/filters in all.
the tool handles is a very simple method,
step 1, paint the handles in an off white colour i use a cheap arylic craftpaint "bleached sand"
step 2, using a mix of "vandyke brown" "raw umber" "yellow ochre" and "burnt sienna" oil paints i blend them together until i get the colour i want and then i gently streak it longways down the handles and continue until most of the paint is gone and the brush strokes look like wood grain you have plenty of time to work this to get it just right.

Hi Tim yes after looking at the other paint scheme i decided my airbrush was not up to that fine of a paint job heh but then again i really did like this one as well so it wasnt really a compromise

Bob, Mark, Steve, John, Koen thanks for taking the time to comment its always appreciated.

Ron.

Man oh man! Talk about raising the bar! Wow! I am very impressed with the finish! The weathering and wear are so perfectly balanced where they add absolute realism without obscuring or diminishing the details of the model! This is an absolute fantastic build!

I believe I have a pair of the Tamiya Marder IIs stashed away. One is probably from the initial release and the other a much later release, but as mentioned here elsewhere, probably from the same mold. When I get around to building them I will refer back to this one. I'm interested to compare Tamiya's to this one.

Thanks Jim i really appreciate the comments

Ron.

Ron,

Very nice job on the Marder! I love the paint job and the weathering.

I read your description of your weathering process for your Tiger I.

You indicated that you washed overall with Van Dyke Brown oil paint after applying Testors Dullcote. What are you using to thin the paint for the washes?

I have tried turpenoid but it attacks the dullcote.

Thanks.

Matt

Hi Matt, Thanks for the kind words i use 100% odorless mineral spirits to thin my oils for the washes and i apply them thinnly over the entire model when used over dullcote to avoid tidemarks and havent yet had any problems but i do reccomend testing everything on something first.

Ron.

Ron-- you never fail to impress one and all with your outstanding modeling skills. Another fantastic job. Great paint job....look more real than the real thing.
DJ

Very nice build, Ron - start to finish. I also like the direction you photo's are going...keep up the good stuff.

Rick

very nice Marder indeed, looking forward to se more of your work.

Thomas

Ron your kit came out very nice. Great job on that paint finish. Well done. Thanks for sharing.

I´m building the same kit and I have an issue with the idler wheel hub, I don´t know how to fix it, since it doesn´t have any specific position, I don´t want to get the tracks too tense or too loose, can you help me please?

Not my build, but a familiar sequence. First off, do not glue the idler (rear wheel) arm or sprocket in place. If the part is 'keyed' you can usually trim off the key to get more movement and play in the part. Next, build the tracks in sections with liquid slower setting glue. Get the top, front and bottom runs set in place, then do the rear section. Use tenax or other fast set glue here to get the idler arm into place and set the tracks.