I recently reviewed the Tamiya 1/35 JS-2 Model 1944 ChKZ and have decided to keep the momentum going by building it now while all the research is fresh in my mind and my references aren't buried under a stack of other references.
You can find the review here if you're interested: Tamiya 1/35 JS-2 Model 1944 ChKZ Review
I also recently reviewed two upgrade sets from Aber and will be using them in this build as well. You can find them here if you're interested.
Aber Russian 122mm D-25T tank Barrel for IS-2 Review
Aber Grilles for Soviet Heavy Tank JS-2 or Tank Destroyers JSU-122/152 Review
So far construction has been very easy. There is minimal cleanup that needs to be done on the sprue attachment points, just a few swipes with a fine then a very fine sanding stick did the job nicely. As you can see from the instructions, there are two parts to each of the wheel assemblies, then a poly cap gets trapped inside by the wheel caps which will allow them to turn on their axles.
Fun fact - It is interesting to note that a regular plain old road wheel is used for the idler on the JS-2
Яusso-Soviэt Forum
Russian or Soviet vehicles/armor modeling forum.
Russian or Soviet vehicles/armor modeling forum.
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Tamiya 1/35 JS-2 Model 1944 ChKZ
Spiff
Nevada, United States
Joined: September 07, 2002
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Posted: Monday, September 22, 2008 - 06:28 AM UTC
whittman181
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: December 30, 2006
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Posted: Monday, September 22, 2008 - 01:44 PM UTC
Your builds are very informing and I'll enjoy watching this one and getting all the tips I can.I've actually got as far as you have so far so god luck Bob
Spiff
Nevada, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 - 03:36 AM UTC
Thanks Bob.
I'll have some shots tonight of the lower hull with the suspension installed. So far it's been a very an issue free and enjoyable build.
I'll have some shots tonight of the lower hull with the suspension installed. So far it's been a very an issue free and enjoyable build.
Drader
Wales, United Kingdom
Joined: July 20, 2004
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Posted: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 - 03:53 AM UTC
Scott - you may find that the heavy metal muzzle brake of the Aber barrel overwhelms the vinyl rings that allow the mantlet to move. Mine weren't able to support the Armorscale barrel which has a resin brake for more than a couple of days before losing out. Just something to watch out for.
David
David
Spiff
Nevada, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 - 04:04 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Scott - you may find that the heavy metal muzzle brake of the Aber barrel overwhelms the vinyl rings that allow the mantlet to move. Mine weren't able to support the Armorscale barrel which has a resin brake for more than a couple of days before losing out. Just something to watch out for.
David
Thanks for the heads up David!
panamadan
Minnesota, United States
Joined: July 20, 2004
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Posted: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 - 04:26 AM UTC
Scott, Good start-I'll be watching this build. Dan
Panzergrenadier44
Iran / فارسى
Joined: January 30, 2008
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Posted: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 - 12:05 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Scott, Good start-I'll be watching this build. Dan
same
Spiff
Nevada, United States
Joined: September 07, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 - 04:56 AM UTC
Thanks for the interest guys, I appreciate it.
I've made some more progress on the JS-2 last night. The suspension arms have been attached. Be careful when sorting them out as the very front suspension arm (A5) is different from the rest of them (A6), it's beefier and has an angular shape to it instead of the rounded shape. It was pretty easy to install them all, they just snug right into the holes and have a small pin which goes into a locating hole to help with the alignment. As an added bonus Tamiya has included two nifty jigs that ensure that all the axles are in perfect alignment and that they're all level. That should prevent the dreaded "floating road wheel" which can really detract from an otherwise nice build as it sticks out like a sore thumb.
I've made some more progress on the JS-2 last night. The suspension arms have been attached. Be careful when sorting them out as the very front suspension arm (A5) is different from the rest of them (A6), it's beefier and has an angular shape to it instead of the rounded shape. It was pretty easy to install them all, they just snug right into the holes and have a small pin which goes into a locating hole to help with the alignment. As an added bonus Tamiya has included two nifty jigs that ensure that all the axles are in perfect alignment and that they're all level. That should prevent the dreaded "floating road wheel" which can really detract from an otherwise nice build as it sticks out like a sore thumb.
210cav
Virginia, United States
Joined: February 05, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, September 25, 2008 - 07:53 AM UTC
Scott-- mating the hull can be tricky. I am anxious to see if your experience mirrors mine. It is a fine kit and I look forward to observing your techniques...
DJ
DJ
Spiff
Nevada, United States
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Posted: Thursday, September 25, 2008 - 08:12 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Scott-- mating the hull can be tricky. I am anxious to see if your experience mirrors mine. It is a fine kit and I look forward to observing your techniques...
DJ
Work begins on the upper hull tonight so hopefully it will be relatively painless....
panamadan
Minnesota, United States
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Posted: Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 06:33 AM UTC
Scott, You might find this link of interest: http://www.militaryphotos.net/forums/showthread.php?t=135408&highlight=%22is-2%22 Dan
martyncrowther
England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: September 12, 2007
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Posted: Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 07:24 AM UTC
im watchin this with great inrest good luck mate!
tjkelly
Maryland, United States
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Posted: Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 08:12 AM UTC
Nice progress so far Scott, enjoy the build. Will look forward to your continuations, you do nice work.
Cheers -
Tim
Cheers -
Tim
Spiff
Nevada, United States
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Posted: Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 08:34 AM UTC
Thanks guys, I appreciate all the comments and the interest. Nice links too, there are some great pictures of JS-2s in action and there was another link in the post that led to more great pics. Thanks!
I spent most of the day on my workbench yesterday alternating work between the JS-2 and the Char B1 bis.
I've completed most of steps 3, 4, 5, 9, 10, 11, 12 and 13. There are a few more detail parts that need to be added, but they will go on after painting.
The hull was pretty easy to mate up once I dry fitted a couple of times and came up with the game plan for applying the glue and keeping the parts flush and aligned. I started by placing them together upside down, put a little liquid cement where the connecting tabs and locating circles were, gave that just a sec to solidify then ran cement all along the seam, flipped it all over then carefully held the front and back halves together to get a nice, solid joint. worked like a champ! Just be careful though as you want the upper hull surfaces to be level with each other. As long as you keep them butted up together firmly, this won't be a problem.
At this point you need to decide which scheme you're going with so you can drill the holes for the headlamp and the horn. If you're doing yours as one the one that served with the Polish 4th Heavy Tank Regiment then you'll need the holes right side (left if looking from underneath). All other variants have them mounted on the left (right if looking from underneath) so be careful! Also think through the angle you need to drill the holes at as the surfaces they're mounted on are at an angle. You'll want the hole for the headlamp to be completely vertical, the hole for horn should be perpendicular to the angled surface. Make sense?
Here are a series of photos from this morning of the almost completed hull and running gear. I still need to install the mud scraper for the drive sprockets, and various tools. I'm going with the Aber engine grill set, so I have some modifications to do to remove the molded on hinges which don't look at all like the real thing. The Aber set will rectify that although I have to make my own hinge wires as they're not provided. More on that in a later build log installment.
Today the game plan is to build the turret and install the Aber D-25T 122mm gun.
I spent most of the day on my workbench yesterday alternating work between the JS-2 and the Char B1 bis.
I've completed most of steps 3, 4, 5, 9, 10, 11, 12 and 13. There are a few more detail parts that need to be added, but they will go on after painting.
The hull was pretty easy to mate up once I dry fitted a couple of times and came up with the game plan for applying the glue and keeping the parts flush and aligned. I started by placing them together upside down, put a little liquid cement where the connecting tabs and locating circles were, gave that just a sec to solidify then ran cement all along the seam, flipped it all over then carefully held the front and back halves together to get a nice, solid joint. worked like a champ! Just be careful though as you want the upper hull surfaces to be level with each other. As long as you keep them butted up together firmly, this won't be a problem.
At this point you need to decide which scheme you're going with so you can drill the holes for the headlamp and the horn. If you're doing yours as one the one that served with the Polish 4th Heavy Tank Regiment then you'll need the holes right side (left if looking from underneath). All other variants have them mounted on the left (right if looking from underneath) so be careful! Also think through the angle you need to drill the holes at as the surfaces they're mounted on are at an angle. You'll want the hole for the headlamp to be completely vertical, the hole for horn should be perpendicular to the angled surface. Make sense?
Here are a series of photos from this morning of the almost completed hull and running gear. I still need to install the mud scraper for the drive sprockets, and various tools. I'm going with the Aber engine grill set, so I have some modifications to do to remove the molded on hinges which don't look at all like the real thing. The Aber set will rectify that although I have to make my own hinge wires as they're not provided. More on that in a later build log installment.
Today the game plan is to build the turret and install the Aber D-25T 122mm gun.
Posted: Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 10:45 AM UTC
Hi Scott. Nice and tidy so far. Thanks for sharing your progress. Can´t wait for the real fun to begin.
Spiff
Nevada, United States
Joined: September 07, 2002
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Posted: Monday, September 29, 2008 - 04:26 AM UTC
I'm just about finished with the Aber gun barrel, very nice set.
Yesterday I went about the process of attaching the two small photo etch parts to the base of the muzzle break which need to be bent into a 90 degree angle. The parts are very small so they can be a little tricky to handle. It took me a long time because they each wound up on the floor at some point or another. Good thing I was using my mobile work bench (12x12 inch ceramic tile) and was working in the kitchen. I still managed to lose one for good though, so I ended up making one of my own. I cut a small strip from the photo-etch fret, drilled a small hole using the tip of an old airbrush needle, then carefully held the part down with tweezers on the ceramic tile work bench while I filed it down to shape using a flat needle file. I know, crazy, but it actually looks pretty good! Whew!
I still need to fabricate the two little pegs that attach next to the brackets and so far haven't found anything suitable to use. I will probably end up using some stretched sprue chopped to the appropriate length and will deal with that when I get home this evening.
Yesterday I went about the process of attaching the two small photo etch parts to the base of the muzzle break which need to be bent into a 90 degree angle. The parts are very small so they can be a little tricky to handle. It took me a long time because they each wound up on the floor at some point or another. Good thing I was using my mobile work bench (12x12 inch ceramic tile) and was working in the kitchen. I still managed to lose one for good though, so I ended up making one of my own. I cut a small strip from the photo-etch fret, drilled a small hole using the tip of an old airbrush needle, then carefully held the part down with tweezers on the ceramic tile work bench while I filed it down to shape using a flat needle file. I know, crazy, but it actually looks pretty good! Whew!
I still need to fabricate the two little pegs that attach next to the brackets and so far haven't found anything suitable to use. I will probably end up using some stretched sprue chopped to the appropriate length and will deal with that when I get home this evening.
VonArnim
North Carolina, United States
Joined: April 10, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, October 19, 2008 - 11:35 PM UTC
Hi Scott ,
Any update on your Stalin . looking forward to more progress.
regards
JOEY
Any update on your Stalin . looking forward to more progress.
regards
JOEY
Spiff
Nevada, United States
Joined: September 07, 2002
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Posted: Monday, October 20, 2008 - 05:44 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Scott ,
Any update on your Stalin . looking forward to more progress.
regards
JOEY
Thanks for the interest Joey.
Actually, yes. I've been so busy though dealing with a bad situation at our rental property. The previous tenants left us with a disaster at the house, so we've been repairing damage, cleaning things up, replacing things they damaged etc. We finally finished on Saturday evening so I can get on with my life now. LOL
I picked up some wire from my LHS with the proper thickness to make the pegs that go at the base of the muzzle brake next to the PE brackets. I've snipped off very short little lengths, then one at a time clamped them in a pin vise to hold them, then used my Dremel with a grinding attachment to flatten out the ends because cutting the wire crimped it at each end. I'll get some pics posted either tonight or tomorrow.
Oh, I also found some perfect pre-shaped thin wire from the model railroad section of my LHS and will use them as the pivot brackets to clamp the hinges around from the grill screens and frames.
Spiff
Nevada, United States
Joined: September 07, 2002
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Posted: Monday, March 02, 2009 - 05:41 AM UTC
The JS-2 is finally back on my workbench! Here are two quick update photos which I took this morning. Up next is the installation of the Aber Grill Screens. I am going with the individual track links provided in the kit and will keep the rubber band tracks in the spares box in case someone might need them some day.
muchachos
Ontario, Canada
Joined: May 21, 2008
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Posted: Monday, March 02, 2009 - 09:12 AM UTC
Good to see this blog revived. It should look really nice with some paint on it!
Scott
Scott
tskross
New York, United States
Joined: August 29, 2008
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Posted: Monday, March 02, 2009 - 09:30 AM UTC
I agree! What a beast she is!
TankSGT
New Jersey, United States
Joined: July 25, 2006
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Posted: Friday, March 06, 2009 - 11:05 AM UTC
Looking good so far, can't wait to see it finished.
Tom
Tom
clay_cliff
Lima, Peru
Joined: April 07, 2008
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Posted: Friday, March 06, 2009 - 02:21 PM UTC
Very good explained, and very good looking so far. I'll keep on watching this project. BTW, that two-piece upper hull... I hope that Tamiya will release an ISU-122 or 152, only time will tell. Good luck. Best regards.
José.
José.
jimz66
Connecticut, United States
Joined: December 15, 2006
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Posted: Friday, March 06, 2009 - 02:37 PM UTC
Looking good so far Scott, what are you using for tracks. Are you using the kit ones or am?
Jim
Jim
Spiff
Nevada, United States
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Posted: Saturday, March 07, 2009 - 06:47 AM UTC
Thanks guys. I sure hope that the two piece upper hull is an indicator of a future new release from Tamiya!
I'm planning on using the individual link tracks that came with the kit because there is no way the rubber band tracks are going to give the upper run the characteristic sagginess over the return rollers. Tamiya provides a nice jig for getting the curves of the upper run just right.
I'm planning on using the individual link tracks that came with the kit because there is no way the rubber band tracks are going to give the upper run the characteristic sagginess over the return rollers. Tamiya provides a nice jig for getting the curves of the upper run just right.