I was wondering where to put the non slip coating on a 1/35 Tamiya M1A1 Abrams w/Plow.And if anyone has seen a diagram or some sort of pic or reference.It would great appreciate it.
I might do the road block pic that was posted on here a few days back.With the M1A1 Abrams and some barriers.etc.In Iraq OIF style..
And what is a good stuff to use for the non slip coating for a beginner to use to put on the Abrams.
Do I prime the model first them apply or apply the coating then primer or base coat.
Happy Modeling
Tom
PS: I just got a camera so I might be able finally post a build blog my first ever. and I hope I get rivited to the every nut and as accurate as possible to my ability.With your fellow modelers help.
Hosted by Darren Baker
M1A1 Abrams Help Non slip coating
tom
Florida, United States
Joined: December 01, 2003
KitMaker: 681 posts
Armorama: 452 posts
Joined: December 01, 2003
KitMaker: 681 posts
Armorama: 452 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 - 10:49 AM UTC
redcobra04
Virginia, United States
Joined: August 23, 2008
KitMaker: 235 posts
Armorama: 133 posts
Joined: August 23, 2008
KitMaker: 235 posts
Armorama: 133 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 - 12:51 PM UTC
This might help on nonslip surfaces. Go to features and click on ARMOR/AFV. Then scroll down on left side of page to technigues. Ther is a article on nonskid surfaces. He uses MR. Surfacer 500, thru a airbrush. You can also do it with a stiff brush cut down and dab it up and down to create the same effect. Cant help on the layout . Hope this helps,Andy
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 - 04:36 PM UTC
majjanelson
South Carolina, United States
Joined: December 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 979 posts
Joined: December 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 979 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 - 08:04 AM UTC
The post Gino's link takes you to appears to have lost the link to the drawing of the non-slip areas on a M1 Abrams.
I had copied and saved the image awhile ago.
http://gallery.kitmaker.net/showphoto.php/photo/286230
I had copied and saved the image awhile ago.
http://gallery.kitmaker.net/showphoto.php/photo/286230
AngryDog
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: March 27, 2004
KitMaker: 1,114 posts
Armorama: 900 posts
Joined: March 27, 2004
KitMaker: 1,114 posts
Armorama: 900 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2008 - 03:10 AM UTC
Tom, if you can't find the paints..you can also use Cast-A-Coat.....from www.cammett.co.uk.
Working on small areas at a time..brush on the setting solution, sprinkle the "grains" ..wait til dry, tap off or brush off the excess.
I used the coarse grains for depicting my IDF Achzarit's rough surface texture, I didn't do it neatly-to show a lot of wear and tear..
I think you should use the "fine" grains for the Abrams hull, just brush on a thin layer of the solution and be sparse in sprinkling the grains from a higher distance to the hull. Position the hull at a 70 degree angle to let the grains "flow".
If you miss a spot, you can wait til dry, brush on a bit of solution,sprinkle for touch ups..
And work without any "airflow" in the area..the grains come with powder..
Once all is done spray surfacer to seal everything.
Working on small areas at a time..brush on the setting solution, sprinkle the "grains" ..wait til dry, tap off or brush off the excess.
I used the coarse grains for depicting my IDF Achzarit's rough surface texture, I didn't do it neatly-to show a lot of wear and tear..
I think you should use the "fine" grains for the Abrams hull, just brush on a thin layer of the solution and be sparse in sprinkling the grains from a higher distance to the hull. Position the hull at a 70 degree angle to let the grains "flow".
If you miss a spot, you can wait til dry, brush on a bit of solution,sprinkle for touch ups..
And work without any "airflow" in the area..the grains come with powder..
Once all is done spray surfacer to seal everything.
18Bravo
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2008 - 03:33 AM UTC
Nick,
Nice looking effect you've done there. I've been doing a home brewed version of this with either diluted white glue or paint, and ground up marble dust.
Nothing against the spray method, but for the Abrams, it's just too regular. Other vehicles have the texture much more evenly applied, and it works well for them, but on the Abrams you can see where in spots it has been smeared on, leaving big swaths and streaks of non skid texturing. It's not as pretty, but closer to prototypical, to replicate this irregularity.
This was my first attempt back in '96. Merk I's had a very irregular and splotchy pattern, which you can control yourself:
Nice looking effect you've done there. I've been doing a home brewed version of this with either diluted white glue or paint, and ground up marble dust.
Nothing against the spray method, but for the Abrams, it's just too regular. Other vehicles have the texture much more evenly applied, and it works well for them, but on the Abrams you can see where in spots it has been smeared on, leaving big swaths and streaks of non skid texturing. It's not as pretty, but closer to prototypical, to replicate this irregularity.
This was my first attempt back in '96. Merk I's had a very irregular and splotchy pattern, which you can control yourself:
f1matt
Manitoba, Canada
Joined: August 13, 2006
KitMaker: 1,021 posts
Armorama: 805 posts
Joined: August 13, 2006
KitMaker: 1,021 posts
Armorama: 805 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2008 - 03:44 AM UTC
18Bravo
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2008 - 03:46 AM UTC
That top photo looks vaguely familiar
f1matt
Manitoba, Canada
Joined: August 13, 2006
KitMaker: 1,021 posts
Armorama: 805 posts
Joined: August 13, 2006
KitMaker: 1,021 posts
Armorama: 805 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2008 - 03:51 AM UTC
Thought you'd remember. I use Photobucket and haven't had a problem.
Matt
Matt
AngryDog
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: March 27, 2004
KitMaker: 1,114 posts
Armorama: 900 posts
Joined: March 27, 2004
KitMaker: 1,114 posts
Armorama: 900 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2008 - 05:20 AM UTC
Hey Robert thanks! I've seen you Merk before-nice attempt. And that's an interesting that you made your own brew for the cast!
Thus why I suggested cast a coat for the Abrams, I think the only main problem with replicating the Abrams' texture with the cast a coat..is being very sparse and patient with sprinkling/dusting the grains. I say this because I really don't have much patience at all with such things--so half the time I'm trying to speed the process up and ending up using too much of the stuff!
Well, I have a couple of Tamiya M1s that need such texturing so looks like I will be doing what I recommend.
Thus why I suggested cast a coat for the Abrams, I think the only main problem with replicating the Abrams' texture with the cast a coat..is being very sparse and patient with sprinkling/dusting the grains. I say this because I really don't have much patience at all with such things--so half the time I'm trying to speed the process up and ending up using too much of the stuff!
Well, I have a couple of Tamiya M1s that need such texturing so looks like I will be doing what I recommend.
18Bravo
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2008 - 06:20 AM UTC
Send an email address. I've got some photos of the welded on numbers that look much different than the cast ones on the kit.
AngryDog
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: March 27, 2004
KitMaker: 1,114 posts
Armorama: 900 posts
Joined: March 27, 2004
KitMaker: 1,114 posts
Armorama: 900 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2008 - 06:56 AM UTC
Quoted Text
welded on numbers that look much different than the cast ones on the kit.
Hmmm sounds interesting.. me too please
18Bravo
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2008 - 07:19 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Textwelded on numbers that look much different than the cast ones on the kit.
Hmmm sounds interesting.. me too please
Actually, I meant that for you. But I'll post a few here in case anyone is interested. The DML numbers don't look right at all, as they're too regular, and look cast. These photos show them to be skewed, and hand done, probably welded with low hydrogen rods, as the welds are very smooth and rounded. May as well make note of the splotchy non skid texture as well:
majjanelson
South Carolina, United States
Joined: December 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 979 posts
Joined: December 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 979 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2008 - 08:44 AM UTC
Matt,
I don't know where you got it, but a picture of a USMC M1A1 Abrams with a Farrari in the same frame. Now you don't see that every day!!!!
I don't know where you got it, but a picture of a USMC M1A1 Abrams with a Farrari in the same frame. Now you don't see that every day!!!!
AngryDog
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: March 27, 2004
KitMaker: 1,114 posts
Armorama: 900 posts
Joined: March 27, 2004
KitMaker: 1,114 posts
Armorama: 900 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2008 - 03:04 PM UTC
Hey thanks! my email is [email protected]
Are the hull numbering different on every Abrams?
More I scrutinize the texture, more I think that cast a coat or similar would be the best option.
Are the hull numbering different on every Abrams?
More I scrutinize the texture, more I think that cast a coat or similar would be the best option.
tom
Florida, United States
Joined: December 01, 2003
KitMaker: 681 posts
Armorama: 452 posts
Joined: December 01, 2003
KitMaker: 681 posts
Armorama: 452 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 - 02:32 PM UTC
Can't find the place to get cast a coat from.It would be greatly appreciated if I could get some help.
Happy Modeling
Tom
Happy Modeling
Tom
AngryDog
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: March 27, 2004
KitMaker: 1,114 posts
Armorama: 900 posts
Joined: March 27, 2004
KitMaker: 1,114 posts
Armorama: 900 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 - 03:52 PM UTC
Dude did you read my post at all?
Quoted Text
Tom, if you can't find the paints..you can also use Cast-A-Coat.....from www.cammett.co.uk.
tom
Florida, United States
Joined: December 01, 2003
KitMaker: 681 posts
Armorama: 452 posts
Joined: December 01, 2003
KitMaker: 681 posts
Armorama: 452 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 02:55 AM UTC
Went to the site and it wouldn't let it display anything for some reason.I thought maybe there was somewhere else.
Happy Modeling
TOM
PS
And yes I read all 148 words and two pictures.If I could find it that would greatly improve my non-slip coating
Happy Modeling
TOM
PS
And yes I read all 148 words and two pictures.If I could find it that would greatly improve my non-slip coating
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 04:50 AM UTC
In my opinion, the Rust-Oleum Terra Cotta spray is cheaper, easier to apply, and looks more realistic. It can be found at just about any Wal-Mart, home building center, or hardware store.
johnlinford
England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: October 28, 2006
KitMaker: 203 posts
Armorama: 195 posts
Joined: October 28, 2006
KitMaker: 203 posts
Armorama: 195 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 08:38 AM UTC
Hey , I know this might be a real long shot , but does any-one know of a similar product in the UK , or if you can get it here .
I really like the finish you get with it ( Gino's models , plus others I've seen ) .
Got a Challenger to do......
John.
I really like the finish you get with it ( Gino's models , plus others I've seen ) .
Got a Challenger to do......
John.
NebLWeffah
Alberta, Canada
Joined: October 13, 2004
KitMaker: 1,683 posts
Armorama: 1,248 posts
Joined: October 13, 2004
KitMaker: 1,683 posts
Armorama: 1,248 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 09:02 AM UTC
Hey John
I've used a textured paint from a spray can that simulates a faux-suede finish. It's usually used for lamp shades, blinds or table tops etc. to give them a suede leather appearance. The brand I used was a local store brand (Rona) so I'm sure there wouldn't be that very same one in your part of the world, but I'm positive you could find something similar at a paint supply store or a big box hardware outlet. I couldn't find the Rustoleum Terra Cotta stuff Gino was mentioning (I didn't look that hard either), but I found this to be very good. Just look for textured spray paint with a faux suede finish and you should be set.
Bob
I've used a textured paint from a spray can that simulates a faux-suede finish. It's usually used for lamp shades, blinds or table tops etc. to give them a suede leather appearance. The brand I used was a local store brand (Rona) so I'm sure there wouldn't be that very same one in your part of the world, but I'm positive you could find something similar at a paint supply store or a big box hardware outlet. I couldn't find the Rustoleum Terra Cotta stuff Gino was mentioning (I didn't look that hard either), but I found this to be very good. Just look for textured spray paint with a faux suede finish and you should be set.
Bob
iwatajim
United Kingdom
Joined: December 15, 2008
KitMaker: 246 posts
Armorama: 171 posts
Joined: December 15, 2008
KitMaker: 246 posts
Armorama: 171 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 09:32 AM UTC
Hi John.
Games workshop has this; http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat1290215&prodId=prod1620042
Is it a challenger 2 you are doing and if so do you have any info on where to put anti-slip as I have one in the pipeline too.
Hi Tom,
Cast a coat comes under Smallshop EU Products at Cammett. Just select from the pull down menu at top pf page.
Cheers, Jim.
Games workshop has this; http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat1290215&prodId=prod1620042
Is it a challenger 2 you are doing and if so do you have any info on where to put anti-slip as I have one in the pipeline too.
Hi Tom,
Cast a coat comes under Smallshop EU Products at Cammett. Just select from the pull down menu at top pf page.
Cheers, Jim.
AngryDog
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: March 27, 2004
KitMaker: 1,114 posts
Armorama: 900 posts
Joined: March 27, 2004
KitMaker: 1,114 posts
Armorama: 900 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 03:40 PM UTC
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 04:56 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Is it a challenger 2 you are doing and if so do you have any info on where to put anti-slip as I have one in the pipeline too.
If you go to my Showcase below (PhotoBucket), you will see a pic of a Chally 2 w/ anti-slip added as an example of where to mask. I would show it, but can't access PhotoBucket froma Gov't computer.
Good luck.
mother
New York, United States
Joined: January 29, 2004
KitMaker: 3,836 posts
Armorama: 1,370 posts
Joined: January 29, 2004
KitMaker: 3,836 posts
Armorama: 1,370 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 06:23 PM UTC
I haven't had the chance to use the Rust-Oleum Terra Cotta spray Gino speaks of, I plan to someday though. However I have textured armor using Future floor wax and Baking Soda. I masked of the area and in sections I brushed on the Future and sprinkled on the Baking Soda. Let it dry and move onto the next section.
This photo may not be the best to see the results, but it did really work out well. I say try it out on a scrap piece of plastic or cardboard.
Joe
This photo may not be the best to see the results, but it did really work out well. I say try it out on a scrap piece of plastic or cardboard.
Joe