Building the above kit. Can anyone tell me what Parts A30 are for (fixed to road wheel) , and are they always fitted
Cookie
Hosted by Darren Baker
Building Trumpeter M1127 Stryker
Cookie
Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 - 09:00 AM UTC
mikey
Idaho, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 - 01:16 PM UTC
Paul, those would be the hub rings. They can be attached or not. Stryker in detail part 1&2 are a wealth of information. The author is Ralph Zwilling. The books show some Strykers with just 1 or 2 rings. And then it depends on what side. It is up to you on what you want to do. They could be just step rings as well. When I built my Stryker I just put like 1 on one side and 2 on the other. Hope that helps you.
HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 - 04:52 PM UTC
They are step rings. The standard now is only one on the driver's side front tire. The rest were found to be not needed. In their place is a small, "U"-shaped cover to protect the CTIS fitting. The new AFV Club M1128 MGS has the CTIS covers as opposed to the step rings. It is not really just up to you wher to put them. They are standardised from the factory or as new wheels are put on.
Cookie
Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 - 10:56 PM UTC
I knew it would not take long to get a reply.
I had noticed that some of the rings where missing on photos i had, i wasn't sure of the purpose of the rings.
Thanks guys
Cookie
I had noticed that some of the rings where missing on photos i had, i wasn't sure of the purpose of the rings.
Thanks guys
Cookie
mikey
Idaho, United States
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Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2008 - 01:09 AM UTC
Gino, you are a wealth of information. You must have one extensive library. This website is just plain great due to everyone helping each other. I will always look foward to hearing from you.
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
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Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2008 - 01:28 AM UTC
No, not an extensive library. I just work on these vehicles all the time. I am on active duty in the Army. Been in and around these vehicles for the last 15 years.
NebLWeffah
Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2008 - 02:29 AM UTC
@ Mike and Gino - this is one of the best reasons to keep coming back to Armorama I think. Not only are there skilled, dedicated and enthusiastic model builders here from all over the world that will help with any topic, a lot of the expertise found here is in the form of people who have had personal experience with the subject matter at hand. Many folks here are currently serving their country in an active capacity and send back real-time info on a certain vehicle or subject, or have served and can draw on their first hand experiences and memory to help all of us.
It's a great site for sure. I've learned so much here and my model building skills have imrpoved many time over just from the stuff I've found here.
Good Skills + Actual Experience = Great Models
Bob
It's a great site for sure. I've learned so much here and my model building skills have imrpoved many time over just from the stuff I've found here.
Good Skills + Actual Experience = Great Models
Bob
mikey
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Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2008 - 03:44 AM UTC
Bob, you are so right on that. I spent 6 years in the Marines, 2 years with towed artillery and then 4 with KC-130's. I spent time in the first Gulf War but was around planes at the time. I have always like armor subjects because you can do so much with them. Plus they can take a licking and keep going. Planes..... They have to be somewhat clean and I can never fully hide the seam along the fuselage and the wings. LOL.
35th-scale
Kildare, Ireland
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Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2008 - 11:27 PM UTC
Hi Paul,
what's your opinion on the 1127? I'm currently doing the AFV 1128 and Trumps 1127 is next on the bench. Would be interested in hearing how you get on.
Cheers,
Sean
what's your opinion on the 1127? I'm currently doing the AFV 1128 and Trumps 1127 is next on the bench. Would be interested in hearing how you get on.
Cheers,
Sean
Cookie
Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, October 31, 2008 - 04:38 AM UTC
Sean
I have just started this week, on the lower hull. I not qualified to comment on the accuracy of the M1127 as your will see from my questions about the vehicle above. I bought this kit because i like the Stryker and i thought this kit will make a cracking model OOTB.
On top of all that, it was great value for money. Box full of everything to build a complete model.
The quality and fit of the kit is first class so far. I will attempt to take photos and post them on the site haven't got a top class camera and i haven't attempted that before
Cookie
I have just started this week, on the lower hull. I not qualified to comment on the accuracy of the M1127 as your will see from my questions about the vehicle above. I bought this kit because i like the Stryker and i thought this kit will make a cracking model OOTB.
On top of all that, it was great value for money. Box full of everything to build a complete model.
The quality and fit of the kit is first class so far. I will attempt to take photos and post them on the site haven't got a top class camera and i haven't attempted that before
Cookie
mikey
Idaho, United States
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Posted: Friday, October 31, 2008 - 05:36 AM UTC
cookie, I bought the same kit and it does have excellent detail for the price. I enjoyed putting it together. I have some pics of it in the Stryker campaign. Like you my camera is not top notch. If you have questions feel free to ask and I will try to help you out.
Cookie
Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
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Posted: Saturday, November 01, 2008 - 04:48 AM UTC
Help
I am having problems understanding how the kit PE is folded on the lower hull. If Part A16 is an option for plastic part B82 i presume A16 should be folded to the same profile.
Cookie
I am having problems understanding how the kit PE is folded on the lower hull. If Part A16 is an option for plastic part B82 i presume A16 should be folded to the same profile.
Cookie
Removed by original poster on 11/02/08 - 14:36:31 (GMT).
mikey
Idaho, United States
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Posted: Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 02:38 AM UTC
oops. I built the M1126. Sorry about that. There might be some differences in the kits.
parrot
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Tuesday, November 04, 2008 - 10:18 AM UTC
Hey Paul,
I'm at the same point.Just started last night.
Also in the same position ,but will try to post.
Tom
I'm at the same point.Just started last night.
Also in the same position ,but will try to post.
Tom
35th-scale
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Posted: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 01:44 AM UTC
Hi Cookie,
any update on your build?
I recently started mine: later than planned. Anyway, I see what you mean about the PE strut guards! I broke one and ended up going with the pastic ones. I also left off the windows around the drivers hatch as there is no detail on the underside of the hatch. I'll put them on an AFV Stryker at sime stage. I cut off the DVE and used the spare that's in the AFV 1128 box in the correct position. Other than that it's OOB so far anyway.
And one glaring mistake in the instructions: early on you are told where to stick the raise wire cutter on the front of the engine exaust, but then later when you have the option to fit the PE exaust deflector the wire cutter is in the way and needs to be removed.
And why do they provide a detailed winch when it won't be visable?
Edited to add photo (not great, but gives an idea of progress...)
Cheers,
Sean
any update on your build?
I recently started mine: later than planned. Anyway, I see what you mean about the PE strut guards! I broke one and ended up going with the pastic ones. I also left off the windows around the drivers hatch as there is no detail on the underside of the hatch. I'll put them on an AFV Stryker at sime stage. I cut off the DVE and used the spare that's in the AFV 1128 box in the correct position. Other than that it's OOB so far anyway.
And one glaring mistake in the instructions: early on you are told where to stick the raise wire cutter on the front of the engine exaust, but then later when you have the option to fit the PE exaust deflector the wire cutter is in the way and needs to be removed.
And why do they provide a detailed winch when it won't be visable?
Edited to add photo (not great, but gives an idea of progress...)
Cheers,
Sean
HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 01:53 AM UTC
Quoted Text
And one glaring mistake in the instructions: early on you are told where to stick the raise wire cutter on the front of the engine exaust, but then later when you have the option to fit the PE exaust deflector the wire cutter is in the way and needs to be removed.
I cut a notch out of the PE part on the one I built. Worked out great.
35th-scale
Kildare, Ireland
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Posted: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 01:55 AM UTC
Do you ever sleep Gino?
HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 - 02:21 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Do you ever sleep Gino?
Sometimes. I figure I'll get all the sleep I need when I am dead.
Ric_Cody
Georgia, United States
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Posted: Friday, February 06, 2009 - 12:37 AM UTC
did the LRAS3 have the option to have the cover off of the front? Or did you modify it?
Ric
Ric
dazzer
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Posted: Friday, February 06, 2009 - 01:10 AM UTC
hi paul
i have not long finished building this kit if you click on my profile then in to started topics you should find my build blog for it hope this can be of some help to you
darren
i have not long finished building this kit if you click on my profile then in to started topics you should find my build blog for it hope this can be of some help to you
darren
35th-scale
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Posted: Friday, February 06, 2009 - 02:44 AM UTC
Quoted Text
did the LRAS3 have the option to have the cover off of the front? Or did you modify it?
Ric
The instructions show it only in the closed position with the glass lens underneath. I just glued it on hanging down and it looks OK. No mods needed. I've not put the glass in yet. I should have put a tube inside the opening to give a sence of depth. As it is I'll just have to paint the inside of the transparent part.
Gonna try adding cabeling to it and the smoke dischargers tonight!
Cheers,
Sean
35th-scale
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Posted: Friday, February 06, 2009 - 02:52 AM UTC
Quoted Text
hi paul
i have not long finished building this kit if you click on my profile then in to started topics you should find my build blog for it hope this can be of some help to you
darren
I've been keeping an eye on it Darren. If mine turns out half-as-good I'll be happy.
Cheers,
Sean
HeavyArty
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Posted: Friday, February 06, 2009 - 03:23 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I should have put a tube inside the opening to give a sence of depth. As it is I'll just have to paint the inside of the transparent part.
The lense is coated with a laser-reflective coating that appears irridescent blue/purple/black. You can not see through it, so no need to do anything to the inside.
dazzer
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, February 06, 2009 - 04:29 AM UTC
Paul
for the lens on mine first I painted one side in clear blue then when dry I painted black on top of that
I dont know if you read how I did the red/pink lenses for vision blocks but if like I can send you a piece of this stuff just email your address to me and I'll send in post if you like ?
[email protected]
for the lens on mine first I painted one side in clear blue then when dry I painted black on top of that
I dont know if you read how I did the red/pink lenses for vision blocks but if like I can send you a piece of this stuff just email your address to me and I'll send in post if you like ?
[email protected]