The Dragon (6424) T-34/76 Mod. 1942 Hex Turret Soft Edge is here in my little hands all the way from Hong Kong. This would be my forth SBS blog and none were still taken to an end. Two were abandoned and one still stuck at a pretty basic stage. On this one I will try to actually finish contruction quicker (? weekend's end). Painting will be left for later. Hopefully some of you will find it useful as you decide if to "invest" into this kit.

Here is the box:

Some new parts:

Some old parts:

First Impressions:

I am pretty happy this is out. Assuming it fits together well, I think this is a good addition to tge T-34 range. Now what tank model this is exactly is hard to say. The turret is the soft edge type that seems to be a relatively late variant made in the Ural factories (very similar to MiniArm set # B35025). The hull, I think, is meant to be a very early type, made in the time of severe tank shortage with no extra frills. The top engine plate cover plate is the early kind from 1941. I think this is just Dragon's way of saving money on making a new top hull, but you can make an argument that such top plates were intalled on hulls with other features of this kit. The closest I could come in a way of photo evidence is this tank on Pavel Blinov's page. It even has the old rear fenders.

More pics here: http://pblinov.narod.ru/liski/T-34.html

Note that the tank in the photos has a very early cast "laminate" turret that is not the same as in the kit. The one on the monument tank looks most like this MiniArm offering (Thank you Mark R!)

Of course niether the early style rear tow hook (small part, but I think no one yet offers it as an aftermarket part !!!), nor the off engine exhaust housing (these are made by TigerModels) are provided by Dragon. And as I said above, the urret is also not correct for this type of early hull.

In short, in the world of T-34, esp. ones made between 1942 and 1944, anything is possibble, but as far as I can tell, you cannot sell this tak as a standard of any particular factory. That said, it could easily pass of a factory repair job. IF ANYONE HAS OTHER IDEAS OR DISAGREES, PLEASE COMMENT - I AM NO EXPERT ON THE TOPIC TO ANY EXTENT.

Other parts (I have around that may prove useful):

- I like movable tracks, there are at least 2 makers who make a track similar to what is offered in the kit

- wheels in the kit may not be the best, so I will compare them to other aftermarket stuff I have around

- these are from the Mig STZ set

- I think new fenders are a must for every T-34, this is just my opinion, new engibe hatch is a plus as well, but lost more work, I also have a Voyager set of fenders on order - we'll see how they look. I suspect Aber is still the best.

- two great MiniArm turrets to compare to the kit's turret

Dmitry,
Excellent info so far...... I wasn't even aware of the flub on the deck. I'll still get one of these kits for sure.

Chris

OK now on to the work!

Basic Fit:

No big issues here, except the usual "Dragonisms."

Front fenders look very nice if you intend to use them:

The 1940/41 hull needs all the extra markings removed. No big deal.

Noe the bigger issue is in the rear. the little part of my finger is from the 1940/41 kit and really should not be rounded on the 1842 Fact. 183 hull.

This is a small this, but I want to fix it tolook more accurate. here are some real examples:

I think this will be easy to fix, but I will leave it till tomorrow as I will have to cut off the fenders and that is a large job...

Wheels:

There is some worry that the new wheels in the kit are not great. Will let you decide. Below are photos of the real thing and the kit wheels, along with main aftermarker competition. Let me know your thoughts. I will just use the kiy wheels here. they are very easy and fast to put together.

Here are the small ones:

Their little screw-up. No big deal.

Other type.

 

Small ones:

Drive wheel.

Idler.

I think this one is a little thick for my tastes, but with tracks, it will probably look OK...

OK, more tomorrow....

Hi Dimitry!

Thanks for the efforts for sharing the comparisons. Beautiful photos too! I'm sure you'll make a beauty of this kit. Keep up the good job!

Jurjen

I got the wheels done today. Cut of the fenders all around. Not really much to show. here is a shot of the other 2 types of wheels included in the kit and a Tamiya idler for comparison.

The tracks. I will use the MasterClub set whicg is movable, but very similar to the tracks included in the kit.

Turret glued together. Needs to be cleaned up still.

The casting mark should not be that hard to fix. Overall fit is great.

Now on the corner fix. I made a small part from plastic card that is sharp edged and will look alittle more realistic. Dragon could have easily included one, but the majority probably will not care....

That hinge also needs repair.

Looks mighty good so far, Dmitry. Thanks for the many excellent photos.

I have to say that the Dragon kit wheels don't look all that bad. I was expecting some poorly done or horribly inaccurate items, based on some of the reviews that I've read. They would work for my purposes, especially once weathered.

-YL

Measure them. They should be considerably thinner than the rubber-tyred equivalents, 7.43mm wide for the pair. They look too wide in the photos, the wheel center too deep.

Also, the profile is really poor. The radial splines ad those around the wheels are only 1.5cm high and the kit version, apart from lacking rounded "shoulders", are too high. The holes in the roadwheel should be 85cm diameter, not 90 as in the earlier (STZ) wheel. Finally, the wheel was cast, with very little post-production machining, and there should be no vertical walls within the roadwheel.

Armorscale recently released a set of these, and they look very good, on a par with the ARMO offerings.

Cheers
Scott Fraser

Hence the statement, "they would work for my purposes". I realize that I don't have the micrometer eye, and that's OK by me. To others, the wheels would be unacceptable.

-YL

Fair enough. This is my favourite tank, and this has to be one of the most desired kits of recent years. I have also been all over these (and other) wheels, working from factory drawigs, to draw SLA masters for aftermarket parts. These don't "look" right to me, and I am disappointed because once again DML have scored an "almost", and we will be stuck with these until another manufacturer does better. Alas.

That as, it IS nice to finally see a hex turret. :-)

Cheers
Scott Fraser

Also, in regards to the wheels, I had read so many negative comments about them that I was really expecting misshapen blobs of plastic, instead of wheels that looked passable (to my eyes).

In this case, there are more accurate aftermarket wheel options for those who want to go that route. I agree, though, that it can be frustrating when a model company falls short on something that could easily be made right the first time.

-YL

Dragonism: The scope covers are not simmetric and one does not FT!!! I tried to use the ones from the Fact 112 kit (same as the T-34/85 ones). They are too small and do not fir over the periscopes. Thank you Dragon. You have to cut off the little hinges off and reattach them in a shifted position. No big deal, but again shows that no one took 2 hours to build the model before release.

OK that took 2 minutes, but also a little tachycardia from frustration.

By the way, if you are raiding another $40 kit, you may as well take the little corned hull parts that I tried to scratch build from the Fact 112 kit. Not perfect fit, but maybe faster than scratch building your own.

With the turret lift rings, I glue them in first and then trim and sand them in place. I've lost a few doing it in reverse order.

I think the big casting seam has to be fixed before attaching the mantle. After glueing the turret halves together, I scraped the seam and coated it with Mr. Surfacer to see how it really looked before making corrections. Mr. Surfacer mixed with acetone. I used an old CMK barrel with some superglue.

Hand rails installed at 5mm below the turret rim.

Against my better judgement decided to fix part of the engine deck to look more like the correct type. Really a pretty simple fix, but still takes time.

Here is a comparison of Dragon's late and early hulls. The engine deck on the right should look like the one on the left.

Here is where I am for today.

Very nice, Dmitry. I will be building this one too in due course. I still have an IS-2 and SU-152 in front of me.

Cheers
Scott Fraser

Very interesting, I'll be following this thread closely, I'm about to start my T-34/76 from Tamiya, and I need some info. Thanks for sharing. Best regards.

José.

Today worked on the body plate joints. Went from there photos.

Here is my effort. Not perfect. Still needs welds.

OK, here is where I am now. The tracks are an old set. Working on ModelKasten now. Bt the way, MasterClub tracks are very nice, but just too much work for me now.

No updates this week as I am very busy at work. I did write a tutorial about the way I take pictures in case anyone is interested:
click here to see it
Happy Holidays, Dmitry

OK, a couple of small things I've been working on. Took a long time and and was of minimal fun.

The grill had to be hand made. The included one is wrong, with rounded corners. So I used a little platic card and some ABER mesh to make my own. Frustrating that Dragon would not provide the right one.

Notice the little break light.

I do not know where they got this from. The sight hole is way to high.

I covered it up and made a new one. Still a little high, but better.