Thanks to all on this board who give such helpful instruction.
What is the typical order that you use for finishes on your armor models-I am sure not all are done the same, but what order (paint, seal with Future, wash, filter, pigments,ect.) would you use on a regular basis?
Thanks
Ed
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Order of painting and weathering techniques?
schmee
Alabama, United States
Joined: November 13, 2008
KitMaker: 6 posts
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Joined: November 13, 2008
KitMaker: 6 posts
Armorama: 5 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 - 03:37 AM UTC
redcobra04
Virginia, United States
Joined: August 23, 2008
KitMaker: 235 posts
Armorama: 133 posts
Joined: August 23, 2008
KitMaker: 235 posts
Armorama: 133 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 - 03:58 AM UTC
Youll probally get a hundred different ways to do it. Go to features and look around on armor/afvs. Theres a lot of builds and technigues to look at. Lot of good info. Try some that you feel comfortable with. Basically i tried alot of different things on a cheap model before using them on a expensive model first.
SSGToms
Connecticut, United States
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
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Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 - 11:38 AM UTC
Hi Ed, welcome to Armorama! Here's my 12 step program to happiness:
1) Acrylic camo paint
2) Acrylic clear gloss
3) Decals or dry transfers
4) Acrylic clear flat
5) Overall washes
6) Panel washes (filters)
7) Pin washes
8) Drybrushing
9) Staining (dot method)
10) Chipping and scuffing
11) Pigments
12) Put it on a base so nobody touches the pigments!
1) Acrylic camo paint
2) Acrylic clear gloss
3) Decals or dry transfers
4) Acrylic clear flat
5) Overall washes
6) Panel washes (filters)
7) Pin washes
8) Drybrushing
9) Staining (dot method)
10) Chipping and scuffing
11) Pigments
12) Put it on a base so nobody touches the pigments!
RickLawler
Oregon, United States
Joined: October 22, 2008
KitMaker: 48 posts
Armorama: 28 posts
Joined: October 22, 2008
KitMaker: 48 posts
Armorama: 28 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 - 01:04 PM UTC
Hey Ed,
Mine is more or less the same as Tom's -
- except I don't do #5 and the remainder are done in any order necessary ( and often repeated).
Rick
Mine is more or less the same as Tom's -
- except I don't do #5 and the remainder are done in any order necessary ( and often repeated).
Rick
Shadowfax
Michigan, United States
Joined: November 02, 2006
KitMaker: 389 posts
Armorama: 351 posts
Joined: November 02, 2006
KitMaker: 389 posts
Armorama: 351 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 16, 2008 - 02:43 PM UTC
Keep it Simple Silly KiSS
paint it, decal it, wash it, powder it, dry brush it.... repeat as needed.
I like to keep them in a clear case so folks don't touch them. I have little luck sealing pastels without loosing hte effect I was trying for.
paint it, decal it, wash it, powder it, dry brush it.... repeat as needed.
I like to keep them in a clear case so folks don't touch them. I have little luck sealing pastels without loosing hte effect I was trying for.
Posted: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 - 12:31 AM UTC
As a general rule, paint before weathering, or it may not produce the results you're looking for ...
Posted: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 - 04:31 PM UTC
Matt, thanks for sharing your ordering. Makes a lot of sense.
But a few questions:
1. Why do chipping last? It seems like dust/dirt/mud/grime happens far more often than major events that cause a chip, and so therefore chipping would go "under" the dirt/dust/grime, right? Sure this is chicken/egg, depending on the story you're telling, but generally....?
2. You have washes after a flat coat... but I thought washes are best on glossy surface vs. flat? So should an order be:
a. ...stuff that comes before
b. gloss coat
c. decals
d. gloss again over decals
e. washes
f. dull coat
g. ... the rest of the stuff that comes after
?
But a few questions:
1. Why do chipping last? It seems like dust/dirt/mud/grime happens far more often than major events that cause a chip, and so therefore chipping would go "under" the dirt/dust/grime, right? Sure this is chicken/egg, depending on the story you're telling, but generally....?
2. You have washes after a flat coat... but I thought washes are best on glossy surface vs. flat? So should an order be:
a. ...stuff that comes before
b. gloss coat
c. decals
d. gloss again over decals
e. washes
f. dull coat
g. ... the rest of the stuff that comes after
?
didgeboy
Washington, United States
Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 - 04:52 PM UTC
Jake, check out this thread. Has the proper order and you are correct.
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/140764&page=1
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/140764&page=1
Posted: Thursday, February 21, 2013 - 03:38 AM UTC
Thanks for the link. And yeah! Maybe I'm learning after all!
Did you see my question about the chipping order? Would love your thoughts!
Did you see my question about the chipping order? Would love your thoughts!
Joel_W
Associate Editor
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Joined: December 04, 2010
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Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Friday, February 22, 2013 - 03:15 AM UTC
Tom, I have a few questions about your method. 1st is why you don't seal your decals with gloss? Flat isn't a very good sealer as you really want to blend in the decals to the paint. Gloss does that best as that's what is under the decals.
2nd, you don't seal the finish any more throughout your weathering process. Wouldn't a wash remove any filter that's it's being applied over it? Same for the Dot method removing the weathering coats under it, since all of them are most likely enamel/oil based, and you use a fair amount of thinners during their application.
3rd, you don't seal the model when done. Pigments can easily be permanently glued to the model after they'r dusted on so that a sealer won't wash them away.
Joel
2nd, you don't seal the finish any more throughout your weathering process. Wouldn't a wash remove any filter that's it's being applied over it? Same for the Dot method removing the weathering coats under it, since all of them are most likely enamel/oil based, and you use a fair amount of thinners during their application.
3rd, you don't seal the model when done. Pigments can easily be permanently glued to the model after they'r dusted on so that a sealer won't wash them away.
Joel
didgeboy
Washington, United States
Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
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Posted: Friday, February 22, 2013 - 03:47 AM UTC
Jake;
I might be the anomaly but I usually do two stages of "chipping". The first is going over the corners and angled edges and areas that would naturally pick up more wear and tear with an under colour, like for modern US stuff a dark od green or something to that effect. I will also do an initial run of metal colour in these same areas, usually first, this way these can be toned down with a wash and then toned down or beefed up during the final stages and prior to pigments. Does that make sense? Cheers
I might be the anomaly but I usually do two stages of "chipping". The first is going over the corners and angled edges and areas that would naturally pick up more wear and tear with an under colour, like for modern US stuff a dark od green or something to that effect. I will also do an initial run of metal colour in these same areas, usually first, this way these can be toned down with a wash and then toned down or beefed up during the final stages and prior to pigments. Does that make sense? Cheers