Mat,
Even when glued they are still somewhat flexible, here is a pic of the tracks for my King Tiger.

Cheers Rob.

Amazing how a thread nearly nine years old has popped-up and is still current and useful.

Mat: I start with indi links by glueing them together, around the top of the sprocket. As Rob pointed out, you should have the last link at the mid point of the sprocket. I recommend you use plastic glue, not ca glue. Plastic glue lets you bend the links, after it is applied.

what color would be under the earth tone and mud colors? shiny steel, burnt iron, black?

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what color would be under the earth tone and mud colors? shiny steel, burnt iron, black?

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Correct. A rolling stone gathers no moss, and a rolling tread gathers no rust. Only in places where there is no metal to metal or metal to earth/rock/sand/gravel contract could rust possibly accumulate...unless it's a museum piece or stationary for some time. Think of a bicycle chain. It won't rust if used, except where there is no rubbing.

The point here is apply common sense.

I use a different process from Gunnie. First of all I prime them with the Tamiya gray primer that in my view helps in creating a more consistent base for the other paint. Then I spray them with Model Master Rust (enamel), then if rubber is involved i spray the relevant parts with Model Master Rubber (enamel)





After that I drybrush with several silver/aluminium/chrome silver tones the parts where the attrition reveals the bare metal and with light gray the rubber parts (all enamels) and the finish them with pastels or pigments (the pigments I use are bought art crafts stores and with a few bucks I've got a lifetime stock in various colours)









Ciao

Quoted Text

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I use a different process from Gunnie. First of all I prime them with the Tamiya gray primer that in my view helps in creating a more consistent base for the other paint. Then I spray them with Model Master Rust (enamel), then if rubber is involved i spray the relevant parts with Model Master Rubber (enamel)





After that I drybrush with several silver/aluminium/chrome silver tones the parts where the attrition reveals the bare metal and with light gray the rubber parts (all enamels) and the finish them with pastels or pigments (the pigments I use are bought art crafts stores and with a few bucks I've got a lifetime stock in various colours)









Ciao

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Fabio,
Your painted tracks look amazing. I'm new to modeling and I can't understand how you were able to get such a prefect line between the rusty metal portions and the rubberized pads when you painted the black.

I'm trying to paint what looks like the very same tracks (M1 Abrams) from an old Tamiya kit and having a terrible time getting them to look like yours.

Please advise.

One thing to remember sometimes the location of where your tank is operating can determine what type of paint that goes on the tracks. i.e. Desert enviornment vs. Northern Europe. I live in the Southwestern Desert of the USA and that will make the tracks perhaps have less rust, more metal wearing etc. Something to think about.