Does anyone knows what is the difference between kit #101
http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=TU101
and #106 ?
http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=TU106

If I'm not mistaken, it's the decals....I've built the "Toten" version....needs a lot of TLC and clean up, but still an interesting vehicle.

Mike

I didn't have those kits in my hands but based on the info on the Tauro's website, I believe those are essentially the same kits in terms of parts. The only difference seems to be the decals.

Kit #101has decals for Wotan (chassis 563) and Hagen (528).

Kit #106 is even more confusing. The instructions state it's for 2 vehicles of Abt. 5. But I think that such unit never existed and associated picture is of chassis 503 which belonged to Abt. 3. In addition, the skull insignia is primarily associated with Abt. 1.

http://www.tauromodel.it/inglese/101.htm
http://www.tauromodel.it/inglese/106.htm

Note however that all those machines were literally unique in details.

HTH

-A-

Hey Alex,
Here is a review of kit #35106:

http://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/kits/tau/kit_tau_35106.shtml

I hope that's of some help.
Cheers

jjumbo

If you're planning on builldingthis kit, consider this. You will get indy tracks that assemble using a pin. The pin is too big for the holes and the plastic(?) is brittle. You will loose an unbacceptable number of tracks if you use the pins. Instead, take wsome standard paper staples and straighten one end, so instead of looking like this [ it will look like thisL. This will alos give you something to push that isn't going to pierce your fingers, When you've assembled the tracks, cut off the excess of the staples.

Also, Tauro gives you springs to amke a working suspension. Fuhgedabahdit. The contact point is too small to hold.

It's not the best kit in the world, but with a little TLC it builds nicely and makes a neat a ddition to your collection.

Thanks, guys! All the info I was looking for! I see I have to choose not a kit itself as much as I am choosing the decals. Will probably go with 101. And will hope it will be easier than anything from Emhar.

Wishful thinking, but ........
Think plastic, similar to Emhar. As Al said, not a great kit, nor particularly well fitting. Kit was first released at least 20 years ago. But with patence, and a little TLC, does build into a nice looking model. (You'll get very good at replacing rivets)

Oh, I will have to replace rivets too? Hmmm... Little man that lives in my head tells me to maybe save $40 for something else and build it from scratch...

If you use regular body putty on the corner panel joints, you will indeed end up sanding off many rivets. Instead, use epoxy putty, like Milliputt, with does not shrink and can be smoothed with a wet fingertip, so you won't have to destroy all that detail. You won't need to add rivets unless your heart is set on doing one of the mid production models with five panels per side instead of one (a batch of Krupp armor plates arrived warped, and had to be cut apart to get them to sit flat, so hundreds of extra rivets had to be added).
The kit dates from 1977, and has its share of problems. The interior is only vaguely accurate, but little is visible once it's buttoned up. The machine gun ports need additional detailing. The belly plate is fictional--the real tank had an open, ladder-type suspension underneath, but again, if it's glued to a diorama base, no one will ever know. Osprey and Schiffer both publish inexpensive reference books on the tank which will go a long way in improving the kit.

Some of the rivets are halfway over the edge of the panel they sit on
so I do think that rivet replacement is mandatory ;-)
/ Robin