Hi All,
Worked on the areas of the house that will show deterioration and damage.
Made my mixture using a combination of some very fine road cinders, "Woodland Scenics" fine ballast, and brick dust which I got from my basement walls. [which tells you what kind of shape my basement walls are in ]
Made 70% white glue, 30% water mixture. And using an old syringe from an old saltwater aquarium test kit with a gluing tip on it, I applied the glue in the cracks.
Than sprinkle dirt mixture over glue.
Cover whole area...
Wait a couple minutes, than remove the excess. If you have any bear spots, just sprinkes some more dirt on the area.
Wall with grey primer
Cheers,
Kirk
Hosted by Darren Baker
Osweiler Dio Build
captkf
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 71 posts
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Posted: Monday, September 07, 2009 - 07:21 AM UTC
roudeleiw
Luxembourg
Joined: January 19, 2004
KitMaker: 2,406 posts
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Joined: January 19, 2004
KitMaker: 2,406 posts
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Posted: Monday, September 07, 2009 - 09:41 AM UTC
Hi Kirk,
Well done for the floorboard and tiles.
But, i do not like your joint filler for the cork, it's to coarse. Sorry to be so straight forward.
I think you are making it to compicated here. Take a straight plaster , put it in the joints and wipe away with a rag, that's it, no glue, nothing. Look up one of Guy's former posts on the actual "Willkommen" topic, i think he showed it very good.
Cheers
Claude
Well done for the floorboard and tiles.
But, i do not like your joint filler for the cork, it's to coarse. Sorry to be so straight forward.
I think you are making it to compicated here. Take a straight plaster , put it in the joints and wipe away with a rag, that's it, no glue, nothing. Look up one of Guy's former posts on the actual "Willkommen" topic, i think he showed it very good.
Cheers
Claude
Pavlovsdog
Carlow, Ireland
Joined: June 05, 2006
KitMaker: 438 posts
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Joined: June 05, 2006
KitMaker: 438 posts
Armorama: 352 posts
Posted: Monday, September 07, 2009 - 10:19 AM UTC
Kirk ,
This is a great looking project , thank's for all the information and pictures I am Learning a lot from it .
Best wishes,
Jerry
This is a great looking project , thank's for all the information and pictures I am Learning a lot from it .
Best wishes,
Jerry
rogula
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: September 29, 2008
KitMaker: 56 posts
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Joined: September 29, 2008
KitMaker: 56 posts
Armorama: 53 posts
Posted: Friday, September 11, 2009 - 07:33 AM UTC
Kirk
Nice WIP post. I've enjoyed following it. May inspire me to attempt a building from scratch.
Nice WIP post. I've enjoyed following it. May inspire me to attempt a building from scratch.
captkf
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 71 posts
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Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 71 posts
Armorama: 70 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 13, 2009 - 12:32 PM UTC
Hello All,
This week I did alittle work on the front of the house.
I used All-Purpose Stucco Patch, which is already textured.
I taped up areas that I didn't want covered.
Appied a thin cost of the stucco.
Allowed to dry over night. Than removed tape.
In one spot I attached some sting, with just alittle bit of white glue, leaving a small portion of the sting showing out of the stucco, so when dry, I pulled the string off leaving the cracks between the stones showing.
With just a thin coat of the stucco, you can still see the out lines of the stone face.
Did not like the way the stucco looked where i removed the tape from. The edges were too straight. So I touched it up by adding just a small amount where needed, to give it a more jagged look.
Did a little painting of the stone walls
And painted the flooring, even though you won't be seeing much of it.
That's it for now,
Cheers
Kirk
This week I did alittle work on the front of the house.
I used All-Purpose Stucco Patch, which is already textured.
I taped up areas that I didn't want covered.
Appied a thin cost of the stucco.
Allowed to dry over night. Than removed tape.
In one spot I attached some sting, with just alittle bit of white glue, leaving a small portion of the sting showing out of the stucco, so when dry, I pulled the string off leaving the cracks between the stones showing.
With just a thin coat of the stucco, you can still see the out lines of the stone face.
Did not like the way the stucco looked where i removed the tape from. The edges were too straight. So I touched it up by adding just a small amount where needed, to give it a more jagged look.
Did a little painting of the stone walls
And painted the flooring, even though you won't be seeing much of it.
That's it for now,
Cheers
Kirk
captkf
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 71 posts
Armorama: 70 posts
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 71 posts
Armorama: 70 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 01:11 PM UTC
Hi All,
Worked on the upper loft door.
I used my micro saw to give the door an aged and worn look along the top and bottom where the wood would have started to deteriorate.
Nuts and bolts are utilized off of models that are in my model graveyard.
This is the technique I use to get the old and chipped paint look:
I start with a dark undercoat.
Let dry, than I apply a coat of diluted white glue. This gaves it a thin skin.
Next I give it a coat of "Crackle Medium" for acrylic paint. I purchased this at my local craft shop. This will make the paint crack and give it that aged look.
When that's dry I applied the top coat color [not shown] When the top coat is dry, I used my knife to scrape off areas that would be worn or damaged, etc, etc..
Finished look...
That's it for now
Cheers,
Kirk
Worked on the upper loft door.
I used my micro saw to give the door an aged and worn look along the top and bottom where the wood would have started to deteriorate.
Nuts and bolts are utilized off of models that are in my model graveyard.
This is the technique I use to get the old and chipped paint look:
I start with a dark undercoat.
Let dry, than I apply a coat of diluted white glue. This gaves it a thin skin.
Next I give it a coat of "Crackle Medium" for acrylic paint. I purchased this at my local craft shop. This will make the paint crack and give it that aged look.
When that's dry I applied the top coat color [not shown] When the top coat is dry, I used my knife to scrape off areas that would be worn or damaged, etc, etc..
Finished look...
That's it for now
Cheers,
Kirk
roudeleiw
Luxembourg
Joined: January 19, 2004
KitMaker: 2,406 posts
Armorama: 2,224 posts
Joined: January 19, 2004
KitMaker: 2,406 posts
Armorama: 2,224 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 07:49 PM UTC
Hi Kirk,
I bought exactly this crackle medium last week and have not yet tried it.
But according to the description on the bottle, shouldn't the colour crack by himself ?
Claude
I bought exactly this crackle medium last week and have not yet tried it.
But according to the description on the bottle, shouldn't the colour crack by himself ?
Claude
captkf
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 71 posts
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Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 71 posts
Armorama: 70 posts
Posted: Monday, September 21, 2009 - 02:02 PM UTC
Hello,
In answer to your question Claude, The crackle medium does produce the cracks in the top coat paint itself. But the cracks are small and I did not get any flaking. So any large areas that I wanted to show wear and tear, had to be "helped". I also found, with the tests that I did, that because I was using balsa wood, without any sealant first, the crackle medium would soak into the wood and I got very little cracking affect.
Here are my test samples...
Sample #1- No sealant, crackle medium ,than top coat.
Sample #2-Sealant [white glue], crackle medium, than top coat.
Sample #3-Sealant, crackle medium and top coat mix together.
Sample #4-Sealant, crackle mediuim, than top coat mixed with crackle medium.
Sample#5- Piece of plastic, Top half : coat of crackle medium, than top coat. Bottom half : coat of top coat and crackle medium mixed.
Hope this helps,
Kirk
In answer to your question Claude, The crackle medium does produce the cracks in the top coat paint itself. But the cracks are small and I did not get any flaking. So any large areas that I wanted to show wear and tear, had to be "helped". I also found, with the tests that I did, that because I was using balsa wood, without any sealant first, the crackle medium would soak into the wood and I got very little cracking affect.
Here are my test samples...
Sample #1- No sealant, crackle medium ,than top coat.
Sample #2-Sealant [white glue], crackle medium, than top coat.
Sample #3-Sealant, crackle medium and top coat mix together.
Sample #4-Sealant, crackle mediuim, than top coat mixed with crackle medium.
Sample#5- Piece of plastic, Top half : coat of crackle medium, than top coat. Bottom half : coat of top coat and crackle medium mixed.
Hope this helps,
Kirk
roudeleiw
Luxembourg
Joined: January 19, 2004
KitMaker: 2,406 posts
Armorama: 2,224 posts
Joined: January 19, 2004
KitMaker: 2,406 posts
Armorama: 2,224 posts
Posted: Monday, September 21, 2009 - 06:31 PM UTC
Hi Kirk, good initiative to do those test and picture them!
There are some nice results, some very subtile and small, but in scale they are probably right and good for different applications.
Claude
There are some nice results, some very subtile and small, but in scale they are probably right and good for different applications.
Claude
jba
Rhone, France
Joined: November 04, 2005
KitMaker: 1,845 posts
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Joined: November 04, 2005
KitMaker: 1,845 posts
Armorama: 777 posts
Posted: Monday, September 21, 2009 - 08:39 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I also found, with the tests that I did, that because I was using balsa wood, without any sealant first, the crackle medium would soak into the wood and I got very little cracking affect.
*noted* I always wondered about using this product but here i got my answers, thanks a million, this is a really nice bit of scratchbuilding/painting SBS you just gave there, goo luck for the following steps
Gorizont
Sachsen, Germany
Joined: November 28, 2007
KitMaker: 1,462 posts
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Joined: November 28, 2007
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Posted: Monday, September 21, 2009 - 11:57 PM UTC
That´s an interesting project and build!
Also it´s nice to see the differences of the effects of the "crackle".
Great work!
greetings...
Soeren
Also it´s nice to see the differences of the effects of the "crackle".
Great work!
greetings...
Soeren
captkf
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 71 posts
Armorama: 70 posts
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 71 posts
Armorama: 70 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 27, 2009 - 08:29 AM UTC
Hello All,
Thanks for the comments everyone. Here's some of my progress this week...
Got the barn door together:
Finished with the half moon window:
Started work on the roof, however, not sure what kind of roof tiles to go with, yet!
Started work on the walls of the first floor. This is my technique for doing quick and easy plastered walls. I use a 1/32 thick piece of cardboard...
Cut to size and shape and mark off areas to be removed.
Remove unwanted areas the knife.
Than I scrap along the edges to rough it up alittle.
You'll notice that there's alot of paper fibers showing along the edges when you do this. So I take a lit match quickly along the edge to burn the fibers away. Than follow the edge with superglue to glue down any stragglers.
Once cardboard is glued into place, I used my "Stucco Patch" to fill in the gaps and give it a damaged look.
Done for now. I will be putting wall paper on at a later date.
That's it for now!
Kirk
Thanks for the comments everyone. Here's some of my progress this week...
Got the barn door together:
Finished with the half moon window:
Started work on the roof, however, not sure what kind of roof tiles to go with, yet!
Started work on the walls of the first floor. This is my technique for doing quick and easy plastered walls. I use a 1/32 thick piece of cardboard...
Cut to size and shape and mark off areas to be removed.
Remove unwanted areas the knife.
Than I scrap along the edges to rough it up alittle.
You'll notice that there's alot of paper fibers showing along the edges when you do this. So I take a lit match quickly along the edge to burn the fibers away. Than follow the edge with superglue to glue down any stragglers.
Once cardboard is glued into place, I used my "Stucco Patch" to fill in the gaps and give it a damaged look.
Done for now. I will be putting wall paper on at a later date.
That's it for now!
Kirk
FabioMoretti
Sao Paulo, Brazil
Joined: November 10, 2004
KitMaker: 135 posts
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Joined: November 10, 2004
KitMaker: 135 posts
Armorama: 104 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 - 07:24 AM UTC
Fantastic..great job..congrat´s
roudeleiw
Luxembourg
Joined: January 19, 2004
KitMaker: 2,406 posts
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Joined: January 19, 2004
KitMaker: 2,406 posts
Armorama: 2,224 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 - 09:34 AM UTC
Very Good!! :-)
Claude
Claude
captkf
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 71 posts
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Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 71 posts
Armorama: 70 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 12:23 PM UTC
Hello All,
Here's the little bit of progress I've been able to get done.
I worked on the barn doors, using the same painting technique as before.
Hinges and latch made from index card paper...
Finished paint job...
As far as the roof shingles go, I played around with different ideas and experimented with different materials, and came up with this...
I found this " Veneer Edging" product at my local hardware store [Lowe's]. It is made out of real wood. But you can cut it with a hobby blade.
Using the edge of my scissors, I went in the direction of the wood grain, and added more texture to the Veneer, then cut to size.
Roof before painting...
That's it for now,
Kirk
Here's the little bit of progress I've been able to get done.
I worked on the barn doors, using the same painting technique as before.
Hinges and latch made from index card paper...
Finished paint job...
As far as the roof shingles go, I played around with different ideas and experimented with different materials, and came up with this...
I found this " Veneer Edging" product at my local hardware store [Lowe's]. It is made out of real wood. But you can cut it with a hobby blade.
Using the edge of my scissors, I went in the direction of the wood grain, and added more texture to the Veneer, then cut to size.
Roof before painting...
That's it for now,
Kirk
guygantic
Antwerpen, Belgium
Joined: August 19, 2006
KitMaker: 7,084 posts
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Joined: August 19, 2006
KitMaker: 7,084 posts
Armorama: 970 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 06:44 PM UTC
This is good stuff ! The doors look real, the texture is good but especially the color was a good choice ! Good thinking to create effects too !
roudeleiw
Luxembourg
Joined: January 19, 2004
KitMaker: 2,406 posts
Armorama: 2,224 posts
Joined: January 19, 2004
KitMaker: 2,406 posts
Armorama: 2,224 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 07:01 PM UTC
Objection !
Kirk, while your roof as such looks very good (why didn't you simply use a rough sandpaper to make the texture?) i have my big doubts that you are still in Luxembourgish Osweiler here. The roof's in Luxembourg are slate ( and perhaps a rare terracotta).
The two doors are looking really great !
What ever you do with the roof, this is overall great work and deserves a little more contributions!!
Claude
Kirk, while your roof as such looks very good (why didn't you simply use a rough sandpaper to make the texture?) i have my big doubts that you are still in Luxembourgish Osweiler here. The roof's in Luxembourg are slate ( and perhaps a rare terracotta).
The two doors are looking really great !
What ever you do with the roof, this is overall great work and deserves a little more contributions!!
Claude
Posted: Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 08:05 PM UTC
Kirk
Great work! Sorry I missed out on the last few installments, was busy in my yearly army training... Don't want to seem like someone who just criticizes for having the wrong type of shermie on the dio... I especially like the lock on the door and the cracking color effects!
Cheerio!
Stef
Great work! Sorry I missed out on the last few installments, was busy in my yearly army training... Don't want to seem like someone who just criticizes for having the wrong type of shermie on the dio... I especially like the lock on the door and the cracking color effects!
Cheerio!
Stef
jointhepit
Oost-Vlaanderen, Belgium
Joined: May 14, 2006
KitMaker: 3,829 posts
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Posted: Friday, October 30, 2009 - 08:11 AM UTC
great work, gonna try that slate with the venier soon, nice build topic
greetz
greetz
captkf
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 71 posts
Armorama: 70 posts
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 71 posts
Armorama: 70 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 - 10:04 AM UTC
Hello Everyone, It's been awhile,
Without going into detail, and to make a long story short... Let's just say that life threw me a few curve balls that took me out of the game for a little bit! One of them being my computer dying! [which really sucks].
Well, all is better now! New computer... New year...Back to business!
Claude, you made mention about my using wood shingles. The reason I went that way is because I could not tell from my reference picture what was used on that part of the biulding. The color didn't look like slate, and the shape, from what I could tell, doesn't look like the terracotta style. So I went the wood.
This is how I see it...Even though it may not be regionally correct, I'm willing to bet that there's only a handful of peaple here in the USA that even know where Osweiler is, and won't even know the difference.[with the exception of those on this site ] Two...It's doesn't affect the storyline of the dio. And three...It's already finished and I really don't feel like redoing it. However, the main part of the house WILL be done with slate shinges! Hope that doesn't disappoint too much.
Ok, here's some pic of said roof... there will be some snow and rubble added later.
Here's how I make my own rubble...
Start with a "Leggo" base
Crumple up some aluminum foil and fit into mold...
Materials that I use...
Break up to desired size. Use knife or rotor tool to round off edges...
And little dark wash followed with some light dry brushing and there you have it!
That's it for now
Kirk
Without going into detail, and to make a long story short... Let's just say that life threw me a few curve balls that took me out of the game for a little bit! One of them being my computer dying! [which really sucks].
Well, all is better now! New computer... New year...Back to business!
Claude, you made mention about my using wood shingles. The reason I went that way is because I could not tell from my reference picture what was used on that part of the biulding. The color didn't look like slate, and the shape, from what I could tell, doesn't look like the terracotta style. So I went the wood.
This is how I see it...Even though it may not be regionally correct, I'm willing to bet that there's only a handful of peaple here in the USA that even know where Osweiler is, and won't even know the difference.[with the exception of those on this site ] Two...It's doesn't affect the storyline of the dio. And three...It's already finished and I really don't feel like redoing it. However, the main part of the house WILL be done with slate shinges! Hope that doesn't disappoint too much.
Ok, here's some pic of said roof... there will be some snow and rubble added later.
Here's how I make my own rubble...
Start with a "Leggo" base
Crumple up some aluminum foil and fit into mold...
Materials that I use...
Break up to desired size. Use knife or rotor tool to round off edges...
And little dark wash followed with some light dry brushing and there you have it!
That's it for now
Kirk
stumbles
United Kingdom
Joined: January 30, 2010
KitMaker: 5 posts
Armorama: 4 posts
Joined: January 30, 2010
KitMaker: 5 posts
Armorama: 4 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 - 11:03 AM UTC
great idea on the rubble kirk, must give that a try, nice one, andy
Posted: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 - 11:43 AM UTC
Very nice work Kirk. Love what you´ve done so far.
The stones below would be great for building a dry stone wall. They could be sanded a bit for better fit, but still have enough texture to look the part.
The stones below would be great for building a dry stone wall. They could be sanded a bit for better fit, but still have enough texture to look the part.
roudeleiw
Luxembourg
Joined: January 19, 2004
KitMaker: 2,406 posts
Armorama: 2,224 posts
Joined: January 19, 2004
KitMaker: 2,406 posts
Armorama: 2,224 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 11, 2010 - 07:19 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Claude, you made mention about my using wood shingles. The reason I went that way is because I could not tell from my reference picture what was used on that part of the biulding. The color didn't look like slate, and the shape, from what I could tell, doesn't look like the terracotta style. So I went the wood.
Hi Kirk, good to see you continuing
Just for information, the roof on your ref. pic this is slate also, probably the rough style as in this picture
https://www.mev.de/imagedb/LAYOUT_WZ/DFC/VOL_18/18003004.jpg
But you are probably safe if you keep the secret
Nice progress on the build!
Cheers
Claude
bill1
West-Vlaaderen, Belgium
Joined: August 14, 2005
KitMaker: 3,938 posts
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Joined: August 14, 2005
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Posted: Thursday, February 11, 2010 - 08:53 PM UTC
Yo Kirk,
What a realistic spot on project...massive scrathwork!
Always love projects from real ref pic...hope this one to see finished.
Keep up!
Greetz Nico
What a realistic spot on project...massive scrathwork!
Always love projects from real ref pic...hope this one to see finished.
Keep up!
Greetz Nico
Posted: Thursday, February 11, 2010 - 09:51 PM UTC
Great update! The roof looks fantastic! Nice tech tips.
Cheers
Stefan
Cheers
Stefan