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Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Two weeks worth of work down the toilet!!!
Marty
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Posted: Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 01:40 PM UTC
bat-21

This technique was described in the Fine Scale Modeler magazine. Here is how it is done:

1. Paint vehicle in a dark (German Gray) color
2. Moisten areas of it (one at a time) with water and using a soft brush apply clumps of salt. I used a mix of sea and table salt.
3. After dry, paint vehicle in dark yellow.
4. When that's dry, using a stiff brush or a cloth rag carefully scrape off the salt crystals.

That's it.
Marty
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Posted: Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 01:44 PM UTC
Patrick, yes I used Tamiya German Grey for the base color and then used a mix of Tamiya Desert and Dark Yellow for the top coat. Perhaps you are right about the dull coat seal. I might try that next time.
PLMP110
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Posted: Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 01:46 PM UTC
I thought that looked like Tamiya dark yellow. Yes, the water base was the problem. I will file that away for future reference.

Patrick
Marty
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Posted: Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 02:04 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Yes, the water base was the problem


Do foresee any problems with applying salt over a dull coat? I would like to think that it will stick the same as it did over straight paint.
slodder
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 02:09 PM UTC
Wow - got in late on this thread...

I see why the frustration and I have suffered similar problems with other techniques. The washes have really made it presentable. Keep on truckin'

My thought before I saw washes done onit was to use liquid mask on the chips and basically redo the salt technique with liquid mask. Cover the chips with liquid mask, repait yellow and then peal off the liquid mask.

Its takin' shape - good save.
Torque
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Georgia, United States
Joined: July 03, 2003
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Posted: Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 02:30 PM UTC
Another late comer here.

It looks like you're well on your way to making a nice model. I personally think the harsh weathering effects attributed to N Africa will come off well.
PLMP110
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Posted: Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 02:39 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Do foresee any problems with applying salt over a dull coat? I would like to think that it will stick the same as it did over straight paint.



Should work just the same. My line of thinking is that the dull coat would keep the water from lifting the base coat. That is, of course if you are using enamel dull coat. I prefer Testors. I know the water wouldn't affect it.

Patrick
scoccia
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Milano, Italy
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Posted: Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 06:15 PM UTC
Happy to see that you're on the right way!!!
Ciao
19Delta
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Michigan, United States
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Posted: Monday, July 07, 2003 - 12:10 AM UTC
I did the salt thing on my m113 without a dull coat and it came out fine. I just did the same salt thing on my hemtt truck with a dull coat before hand, and it came out fine. Your updated picture looks good though. All a model needs is alittle tlc
ARENGCA
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Arizona, United States
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Posted: Monday, July 07, 2003 - 05:29 AM UTC
Is it possible that you got a bit of salt in the water you used to moisten the model. I can see a possibility that a tiny amount of dried salt from the water could mix with the acrylic (water-based) paint, affecting the color.

(This is just a guess, and if you are sure that there was no possibility that there was salt in the water then it means nothing.)

Siggi
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United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, July 07, 2003 - 07:25 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Here is an updated photo. This is after two washes and a dry-brush.




You're 'aving a laugh ain't you Marty? I could see zero problem with the first pic, and the second pic looks bloody excellent. You're a bit hard on yourself I think. If that's the first time you've used the salt technique I wouldn't bother to be expecting much improvement, you've got it perfected already.
Tankera1
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Tennessee, United States
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Posted: Monday, July 07, 2003 - 10:33 AM UTC
In looking at your updated photo I see a K wagon that is in dire need of a paint job! I suspect that is exactly the effect you are after. I have noticed in looking at the work of very accomplished modelers that when the viewer's first reaction is that the vehicle is dirty or beat up the modeler has accomplished what he/she intended relative to weathering. It seems to me that you have done an excellent job with the salt technique.
Marty
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Posted: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 12:27 AM UTC
Thank you all for your positive feedback. Yes, I am a lot happier with my model now. The wash and dry-brushing definitely helped a lot.
csch
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Buenos Aires, Argentina
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Posted: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 04:48 AM UTC
I like the way it looks. Maybe to much chipped paint for me, but it looks convincent as a desert vehicle. Nice job
IŽll try this thechnique but using Model Master Enamels and giving a coat of clear Varnish before appling the salt.
Tiger101
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Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 12:07 PM UTC
I'm glad to see you stuck with it. I read the artical again and it states the amount of water you use (more) may cause the salt to effect the surrounding paint. It seems the less water you use the better off you are. The dry brushing really looks good. Keep on experimenting! And remember don't give it up till you have finished it! Thanks for the updates.
Savage
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 12:15 PM UTC
Marty

I think you got it just right. The weathering is harsh, it's not called a desert because of it's gentle climate!

sniper
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New York, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 12:33 PM UTC

I'd be interested in any photo documentation of any vehicles with weathering this extensive from the North African theater. I have seen some Panzers with some pretty big splotches.

Not that I'm trying to doubt it, just that I would like to see it!

I too think think the model looks great as far as the technique is concerned. I'm wondering how well it could be controlled as far as the size of individual chips are concerned. I was thinking of trying this on a similar sized vehicle but in a much less extreme way.

Steve
Augie
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British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 08:30 AM UTC
Personally, I think it looks pretty good. I'm trying the same technique on my Tamiya Schwimminwagen mainly below and at the waterline. I hope that it turns out as good as the one you've done.
DaveMan
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Michigan, United States
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Posted: Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 02:45 AM UTC
I may be a bit late jumping in here, but I have owned several rusty cars over the years, and most of them showed paint discoloration around the rust. Usually the paint was faded. I was going to suggest rusting the vehicle in the areas with discoloration, but I really like the end result the way you have it now. It's really cool when a little "Oops" ends up creating something even better. Great save, and a nice looking model!
tazz
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Posted: Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 04:33 AM UTC
yes it looks ok,,,, just leave it u can allhide itmix brown and bakeing sode for mud and put mud in the places where u think will be ok
Marty
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Posted: Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 10:40 AM UTC
For all the latecomers, thanks for your suggestions and comments. I am moving ahead with this project.
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