Thanks again guys. I have made some more progress on the tank.







I have added more new parts to the product line. Many of these parts will work on other vehicles besides M26 Pershings.
http://www.eastcoastarmory.com/ustankparts.htm

M3 90mm gun double baffle muzzle brake. This component will work on the M36 and M36B1 Jackson Tank destroyers.







M26 Pershing family Spent shell port hatch kit. This kit will also work on the M46 Patton family.













M26 family T80-E1 Live Track. The track is fully articulated and is very realistically detailed. The track is almost identical to the T80 track that is used on the M4 HVSS suspension. To transform this set for Sherman use I only need to make a different center guide tooth.











The tank's turret detailing is almost complete.



The turret spare track rack was fabricated out of sheet steel. A length of spare track will be mounted once the tank is finished.









The tank's engine removal studs were also added. These studs are only found on early production M26 Pershings.





The remaining turret details have been added. These would include the MP-48 spring antenna base, 50.cal travel lock, and the spent shell port hatch.







The only components that are left on the turret are the track tension jacks. Which will be done very shortly.

Just a quick update I have completed the tank's turret detailing.



I added a second MP-48 spring antenna base, and the tank's track connector ratchet jacks.









I have also added the jacks the product line. These jacks are used to tighten up the space between the two tracks when they are being re connected to insert the last connector block.









Now that the turret detailing is mostly complete I will now start on the tank's rear wall detailing. This would include the exhaust manifold, tail lights, how hitch....ect. More info to come!!

Another Jaw dropping post here John.

Gosh this is coming out better every time and all scratch is the deal here.

Large scratch which some would think is easy but we know better don't we.

Keep it up.

And do you really use a regular airbrush or a DeVilbiss touch up gun?

The tracks are great.
So you will be using Resin ones?

John,this build is stunning,the tin work is fantastic and you have nailed the cast texture a treat.
Keep going
Andy

Thanks guys, Jeff you are correct about the scratch building in this large scale. The parts are easier to scratch build, but it you make a mistake the larger size will amplify the error >:( !

I have completed the tank's rear wall detailing.





The tank's rear wall detailing includes The Tail lights, Tail light guards





The tank's Tow shackles were added, and the chain mounts for the tow Lug Pins.



The tank's Tow hitch and Tow cable mounts were added to the tank's rear wall. Unlike most US tanks the M26 series usually carries it's tow hitch in the stowed position.



The final piece of detail, and the most important to the rear end of the M26 is the tank’s rear exhaust manifold system. The M26 series had about three different exhaust layouts.

The first and earliest (T26-E3) exhaust system had the main gun travel lock mounted directly to the exhaust casting. The travel lock proved to have too much stress on the tank's exhaust and would often break.

The second version moved the travel lock mounts from the exhaust manifold to directly besides the exhaust. The exhaust still had the mounts for the travel lock casted into the housing.

The last version (M26A1) featured a smooth round surface that was void of the travel lock mounting lugs, the travel lock itself was moved to the tank's upper hull behind the center gas cap.

For my model I went with the early T26-E3 style exhaust manifold system. The travel lock is full function and does clamp onto the tank barrel. This item was added to the product line.

http://eastcoastarmory.com/ustankparts.htm











Now that the rear wall is complete I will now move to the top deck and work on the grill work. More info to follow !

WOW!!!!! I bow down to the Master of scratch... in any scale!!! Absolutely Stunning.

...this is just down right cool!

I have completed the tanks rear grill work.



The grill work is all fabricated out of brass strips. The grills are all soldered together.









The rear grill slats are angled to the tank's rear. These details aere also built into the brass grills.





The inner portions of the grills have support struts that are present on the real vehicle and make the grills more rigid.







The grill grab handles were added and are functional




I was able to make the grills are fully functional. To make them static it would have required the same amount of scratch building, so I decided to make them fully functional.











I will now be focusing on the main engine grills. They will be built using the same method. more info to come.

Dang John kicking butt again.

Can't see how you do it but keep it up.

Just jaw dropping good.

But really have to see it up close to really get the size of these things.

What is next as you wind this one down?

I know the mind must be already planning the next one.

You continue to amaze, John! One thing I didn't get is how the turret is attached to the hull. Is it just set on top or is it attached and turnable?

Cheers!
Stefan

Thanks Guys, For the turret I will mount the turret to the body with a single bolt and nut that will secure the turret to the hull, but will allow the turret to rotate freely.

Jeff as for the next project. I'm not saying what it will be, but I will say that I have had enough olives and I need more mustard in my diet .

Just a quick update, The main engine grills have been fabricated and installed.





The grills are made out of the same type of brass as the other rear grills, only the slats on the engine grills are vertical and the slats on the transmission grills are slanted.





The tank's grills are all metal construction with the exception of the hinges which, are resin and are fully functional.





Now that the grills are completed I can now proceed on the fuel caps, which will finish off the tank's rear deck.

I have made a lot more progress on the tank.



I have completed all of the tank's rear deck detailing, this includes the fuel caps, and fastener details.



I have also added two new parts to the product line http://www.eastcoastarmory.com/ustankparts.htm

Resin US AFV engine fluid identification plates set.



Resin M26 style storage bin handles set. These handles will work on any US tank from the M26 Pershing to the M60 MBT.



Like my other US tanks I made the armored fuel caps functional. A lock pin and retaining chain will be added later.









I was able to add the final bit of detail to the tank's Bins. I made the Bin handles fully functional, so that when the turn they actually lock the bin doors shut. the lock itself is a brass strip with a screw soldered to it. The screw then gets inserted firmly into the resin handle. On the bin Lids a small steel bracket is soldered to the lids directly behind the handle bracket. These brackets are for pad locks to lock the handles to the lids in the closed position.











Some shots of the locking tabs








Now that the rear portion of the tank is complete I have now started working on the front. I have already cut out the spots for the bow hatches and have started the bow hatch masters.







The tank is now in it's home stretch for detailing. Once the last bits have been completed the M26 will go into painting!!!

Hi John. Its been a while since I looked in last, but it was well worth checking back again. This is modelling of the highest order. Amazing scratch work throughout. Nice one.

I can't wait to see it done, what markings is it going to have?

The markings are going to be simple starts and ID lettering.

I have added the last of the details and the tank is now ready for painting!





I have also added the last of the M26 family parts to the product line. http://www.eastcoastarmory.com/ustankparts.htm

M26 Family Hatch set.











Resin M26 family head light posts set







On the hatches I installed a set of Panzerwerk inner periscopes.









On the hatches I was able to make hatch retaining latch functional. On the M26 The latch retaining latch was at a spot where you could not reach with your arms, so the latch was designed with a T shaped handle on the interior of the hatch that would release the latch. The way this worked was the latch was connected to the handle via a push rod. All of these functions are built into the model and the latches actually lock and release on the latch snags.









The hatches locked close on the M26 with a large locking stud that is operated with a locking grab handle. All of these details are molded in to the casting.





The tank's head lights and head light post were added along with their brush guards. the head light lenses and canister chains will be added later after the tank is painted. The left and right posts are different. Both posts are a hollow design. The head lights are fastened into the post via a vise type locking bolt. The headlight power cord extends out of the bottom of the post and gets inserted into the tank's hull. All of these details are represented on the resin castings and my model.





The M26 headlight brush guards have what looks like a tarpaulin snap point on the upper part of the guard. This detail was added to my model and was and was soldered on









The tank's bow 30.cal was also completed. The bow 30.cal protective tarpaulin rack was all fabricated out of brass and wire brads. the whole component was soldered together. The Bow MG itself is from Panzerwerk.







The tank's front tow shackles, lift rings and casting numbers were added aswell.











The tank that I'm building is an early production M26, and on the early M26 there were two periscopes mounted on either side of the front blower vent. These periscopes have been added along with all the periscopes guards



I was also able to install the tank's fire extinguisher. The M26 used the same type of fire extinguisher as the M5 Stuart, which I already have.





For the tank's copula hatch periscope I also used the Panzerwerk rein periscope. The periscope mount itself was modified by removing it's bottom base.





As soon as the weather breaks I will be able to give the tank a good wash and begin to paint the Tank!!!

John,
As I've said before "Amazing"!! In 5 months and 16 days you have made a 1/6th scaled tank that would have taken me, and others, more than a year to do. I'd love to see a book of your scratch building techniques to teach the rest of us.

George

John,
I am simply amazed at your project! Can't wait to see more

Sean

Thanks guys,

Today I was able to get the tank hosed down and applied it's final prime.
It's nice to see the tank in one color.































Tomorrow I can apply the base coat.

Here are also some scale images showing the size of the model in a trailer when I was towing it to the place where I paint my large tanks.

Great pics and of cause a nice secluded area there to do some serious stuff.

I like the area the best.
So Mustard you say well that brings to mind a slew of ideas each large.
Waiting to see the final paint.
And really as a scratch faster then I could build a Dragon Sherman OOB.


Do I spy white birch trees a 1/35 scale modelers paradise as to the pods from them.

Thanks again Jeff, The weather today was perfect for painting and I was able to get the tank painted in it's base coat of OD. For the tank's OD I mixed up my own color for the base coat. It is a different shade of OD which makes it stand out from my other 1/6th scale US tanks.































the tank is now ready for it's markings and weathering.. More to come very soon

Man,
can I get that in 1/2 scale!!
What unit markings are you putting on it.



George

So...when are you taking orders? But seriously, that's some fine work John, thank you for sharing it with us. What's the next project you have on tap?

Thanks guys, I'm not going to say what the next model will be, but it is German, and it is not a plastic kit

The markings have been added to the tank. All of the markings are all painted on and are not decals.











The tank's weathering has also been applied.





















I can now move on to the next step which is painting the tank's tires, and assembling, painting and installing the tracks. More to follow!

I have completed more of the model.



The tank's tracks has been assembled and painted.





On the real tracks the track's exterior is steel, and the inner portion is rubber clad. This detail was molded in and painted into the tracks





The tank's road wheels have been painted and weathered. Also all of the grease fittings on the road wheels and suspension were painted in red.





The tank now sits on its own suspension and it's own weight.











With the tracks out of the way I was able to finish off many of the small paint details.

These would include the red fire extinguisher handle



The commander’s copula periscopes.



The tail lights



the Mp-48 spring antenna base insulator, and antenna rod.





The bow 30.cal MG



and the track tension ratchets



All that remains now to finish the tank is the spare track, chain work, tools, fuel cpas, and the 50.cal. More to come soon.