Quoted Text
... look at how you described the AFV Club T-34/85 kit :
I like their T-34-85. ...
vs. their T-34/76 m42:
There was nothing at all said about the suspension of the model.... anyone wanting to build this into an accurate model of a T-34... must replace the roadwheels.
...
So, NOT taking into account the road wheels, is the kit still a wreck? Are the Zvezda wheels really the best solution to fix this problem?
The first comment was about a kit. The second comment was about a review, so it's not quite a straight comparison. Still, the answer to your question is contained in the comments. I like the T-34-85 kit. It is not without its flaws, but it can be built without having to buy anything else (other than tracks) into a reasonably accurate model of what is represented on the box. It is a version no one else has done before from a factory no one has featured. I actually bought two of them, and will build them --- one as a T-34-85 from Omsk, the other as a T-34-76 from Omsk, and I will convert the second turret to a Sormovo turret, which has a very similar shape.
The T-34 "other one" however they label it, does not have those attractions. It purports to be a T-34 from Zavod No.183 with 'hardedge' hex turret. The box shows a model of a tank from Zavod No.112, although no one has commented on that here. We know about the wheels. The hull is from Zavod No.183, but so are most T-34 kits, so zero for originality. It's only appeal for me is the hardedge turret. The turret itself is only marginally better than Zvezda for shape, if it even is. The Zvezda turret is actually pretty good, for a fraction of the price, and the AFVC turret seems narrower than it should be to me. Despite that unresolved question, IMHO, this kit still offers significantly less value than their T-34-85, because of the wheels and because it duplicates available kits without being significantly better.
Similar comments might apply to their first kit, from Zavod No.112, which is again a duplicate of a version in DML's catalogue. It has correct wheels, but in my judgement, the DML kit (6479) is easier to build, more accurate, better detailed, and more complete for the same dollar.
A caveat: in commenting on the AFVC kits, I am ignoring the clear plastic and the interior parts. Some people like them, some people hate them. If having an interior or having to work with clear plastic make a difference to modellers, they will buy based on that preference.
Regarding fixes for the wheels... The T-34 has been treated badly by manufacturers. Back in the old days, Tamiya brought out steel wheels, but designed the wheels to be the same width as the rubber-tired wheels. Zvezda followed suit, so their wheels look okay from the side, but are way too thick when glued together. The steel wheels are much thinner, enough that when they went to use them, the same load on a smaller area in the center of the link fractured the track, leading directly to the adoption of "waffle" track at the start of 1942.
DML caught this, and the wheels in 6355 and 6388 (the STZ wheels) are suitable for some very early tanks. The steel wheels from DML 6424 or 6487, or the EXTRA wheels included in 6564 can also be used, and are more normal for tanks from the Urals. Resin wheels of the correct type are available from ARMO (Jadar in Poland) and Voyager has a set of six STZ wheels.
Plan B is to replace them entirely, all ten wheels, with the late stamped wheels included in the other two AFVC kits, or from DML's 6479, or the DML SU-100 kits. Miniart also offers these as an aftermarket item.
So. The wheels are fixed. What is the potential of the kit?
Tanks roughly like this entered production at UTZ in the spring of 1942, with the first series (usually 200 tanks) finished in early April. The last tanks with this turret (and cupola) were delivered two years later, in April 1944. There's a lot of combat in between, from the fighting for Voronezh before Stalingrad through Kursk to the opening salvos of Bagration. Of the 30,000 T-34s built, probably a third of them were delivered with this basic hull and turret. They were produced simultaneously, in quantity, over the two most critical years of the war at five different factories spread across the USSR, and everywhere they were made differently. They were all simply called "T-34", they all look the same from across the battlefield, as they do across a table in 1/35 scale, and the devil is in the details.
The hull, with detail changes, is suitable to any of the T-34 factories other than Zavod No.112. Every factory had their own way of doing things, and T-34s from one factory differs from another in these quirks: the number and shape of hinges in the rear, even the number of bolts. Yes, it is true. T-34 nuts count bolts, but they ARE bolts, not rivets. In any case, the differences are minor, largely confined to the rear plate, and within any modeller's ability.
Turrets were very similar at different factories, but differed in detail over time as various improvements were made, so early turrets lacked handrails, pistol ports and the removable plate between the hatches, just examples. If the goal is to build a tank from a particular period, these are things to be aware of for the sake of accuracy and variety. (An aside --- it's the variety that draws me to pursue accuracy, in my hobby. I want this T-34 to BE different from that T-34, not just LOOK different, especially if they're both mine. That's done by addressing the details.)
So yes, this kit has lots of potential. Everybody go look at Jacques' SU-100 blog, then come back.
Where to get the most improvement for the least effort? The minimum I would do:
1.) Replace the tracks, obviously.
2.) Install a woven screen over the louvers on the rear motor deck.
3.) Do
something about the screens on the air intakes! The real ones were thin steel strips and thin steel rod, welded together. These are decidedly chunky. There are one-piece drop-in etched parts that work easily, or there are sets from people like Aber so that replicas of the real ones can be fabricated by crazy people with three very steady hands and
really good eyesight, working in a Clean Room so they can find airborne parts. I've been known to cheat, and sand the back off the solid parts included in DML kits.
4.) Paint it. All of it. No more clear parts. (You asked)
As for clear parts and interiors and whatnot, Steve Zaloga recently completed a model with the T-34-85 kit that showed the interior, with the shell of the tank painted and cut away, with red edges, to show the innards. That's a great way to show it off. Me, I want a model that looks like the others until I lift the roof of the fighting compartment, which will show what's inside, and I can leave the roof of the motor-transmission compartment removable as well. I confess to an intense dislike for injection-moulded clear styrene, except for lenses.
So that's my take on the model. You asked for it, there it is. Obviously, the wheels really bug me, mostly because of what they say about AFVClub and their attitude toward Soviet subjects. They do German stuff, and those are head and shoulders ahead of these kits. I conclude they don't really care about Soviet stuff or these would have been as good. But no, fix the wheels and it's a tank again, not a wreck, and like any model (except for that ghastly T-60) can be built into something that will stand out.
Regards from the cheap seats
Scott Fraser