This is my first attempt at figure painting. I used Lifecolor paints with a touch of Vallejo. The base came with a Skullcrafts basing kit. I don’t like how the Thompson turned out, and I don’t like the black shadowing on the pants. Both are areas for improvement for next time. Any other comments and constructive criticisms are appreciated!
Thanks!
Michael

Michael can you put up a picture of the bare hand and of the face please. The only item I can see as a viewer has been mentioned by you, in that I read somewhere you never use black to shadow.

In general, I like the look of this figure, by the way. I do! The face especially; well done I sez.

Yup, I can see what you mean re: pants shading and the Thompson... I've just discovered the joy that is oil washes, so my first instinct is to suggest the use of this technique to improve the way these look. (the Tommy gun is too 'clean'? and some sienna in those creases...)

Just so you know, I rarely consider my figures 'done'. I often pick one up and tweak it as I come up with new techniques, or are looking for something different to do (a reason we all have stashes, or multiple models on the go at any one point, lol). I like my figures, but they always seem to be able to use something else to improve them.

Looks pretty good as a start.
As mentioned, don't use black for shadows unless you have a very dark blue or gray (to achieve an overall black) base color.
Try going for a mid tone for the base color of your clothing. Use a color wheel and find opposite colors to get your shadows by adding that to the base. Use a lighter shade for highlights, or again, refer to teh color wheel.
Don't get trapped in the idea of using a wash for your shadows. develop a skill set right away to lay the colors in and feather the edges by blending (oils) of very thinned appliations of he highllight and shadow colors (acrylics). See the tutorial under Model Colors at Vallejo's site.
As to your figure specifically. You seem to have missed shadows in many of the folds. Each should get an application of the deepest shadow on the under side of the fold. Likewise, lay on more highlights the same way as the shadows but on the upwards facing part of the folds and on the upper thighs and shoulders.
The dirt on the boots looks really good, but I'd break the rules I just gave you and put a wash of oils or inks to outline the closures then drybrush the raised detail.
The face, what I can see of it, looks decent, good flesh tone, some shading, but try punching that up a bit. Lay in some frown lines along the edge of the nose, some mode shadows on the hollow of the cheeks, the some increasingly light highlights along the upper part of the cheeks, the ridge of the nose, across the top of the lips, on the chin and jawline. Try to get a slightly pinker flesh color for the lips themselves...GW or Citadel has a "Tanned Flesh" that works really well on male lips.
Put a shadow line above and below the goggle strap then a highlight at the top of the strap. Do the same with the collar, cuff straps, pockets and epaulettes.

Thanks, guys! I really do appreciate your comments and feedback. I continue to learn so much from the builds posted on Armorama and reading "how to" articles, but there's nothing better than getting direct constructive criticism on your own stuff!

I only had a handful of photos of this fig. I ended up giving him to a buddy at work who has a passion for the Thompson machine gun, so I wasn't able to upload many photos today. However, I'll see if I can borrow him for some better shots of the face and hand. I have two basic point and shoot digital cameras, so I'm not able to get great macro shots. I'll do the best I can though. I will tell you not to expect much from the eyes. I tried the method of painting the iris first then cutting in with a lightened skin color, but I was only somewhat satisfied with one of the eyes. I was thankful the trooper is looking down!

Painting gun barrels and wood are two things I struggle with. I read every article I can find on painting realistic wood, but I still need a lot of practice. I did try to stay away from using a wash on this figure. Instead, I tried to layer the acrylics. I only worked with one shadow color and one highlight color, though, so I didn't get a lot of depth. I think I was a bit too worried about going overboard with it, so I held back too much. I also have a tough time with color selection (on armor as well as this figure) and mixing darker and light tones of the base for shadows and highlights. The pants are a great example of that. I tried darkening the brown several times, but didn't find anything that really worked. I ended up darkening the brown with black, which makes it look like the shadows are black. I guess that's where the practice comes in. It also takes practice to know when to break the rules, like you mentioned, Al.

What color would you use for basic shadows - above and below the goggles, for example? Does it depend on the color you're shadowing, or is there a general color that can be used often? Do you have any suggestions for darkening already dark base colors for the shadows?

Again, thanks so much for the comments, tips, and suggestions!
Michael

PM me your email and I'll make a copy of a card from Vallejo, courtesy of Colorado Miniatures, listing a good number of their colors with an appropriate shadow and highlight.



For the goggle strap, I'd use a darker version of the OD. You could add dark brown or even a red to the base color to get a good shadow.

There are no one-size-fits-all shadows and highlights. Most have to be mixed by the painter. But, as an example, I've been using Iraqi Sand (819) for the buff on a couple Continental figures I'm painting. What I found was a good shadow was Khaki (988). The highlights include mixtures of the base with Bonewhite (Vallejo Game Color 34), straight Bone white, and Light sand (not sure of the color # on this one). and Ivory (918) for the highest light.

Thanks again, Al! PM is on it's way.

Ok, I snatched the figure from my friends desk before I left work today. I won't say these are better photos, because they're still a bit blurry. Hopefully, though, you'll be able to critique the face. Thanks again! Michael