Manage to finish the bulk of the weathering. First I applied the filters using oils and then faded with oils using white, yellow ochre, raw umber and burnt sienna. Next I added a pin wash using sepia, I like the contrast the darker sepia gives instead of raw umber. Finally I sprayed Testor's Dullcote clear laquer. Next step will be to give a light dust coat with the airbrush and then a dusting with pigments. I'm not sure if I should go with the red earthy colour or light dust colour. Any ideas will be welcome.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Academy ONTOS
elph
Seoul, Korea / 대한민국
Joined: November 13, 2005
KitMaker: 319 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Joined: November 13, 2005
KitMaker: 319 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 08:08 PM UTC
thomokiwi
Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined: January 11, 2006
KitMaker: 438 posts
Armorama: 359 posts
Joined: January 11, 2006
KitMaker: 438 posts
Armorama: 359 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 09:59 PM UTC
Hi
If I was to go with a pigment, the earthy red would be your best bet.
Hope that helps.
If I was to go with a pigment, the earthy red would be your best bet.
Hope that helps.
Posted: Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 10:28 PM UTC
Great build so far Brett. Very interesting little vehicle, and looks like a nice OOB build. I don´t think the etch looks too bad.
elph
Seoul, Korea / 대한민국
Joined: November 13, 2005
KitMaker: 319 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Joined: November 13, 2005
KitMaker: 319 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 03:49 AM UTC
Latest update. The Ontos is 95% finished. I'll add some small touches and a little more pigment. As you can see I've went with the reddish earth. First, I did a little chipping, nothing traumatic. I made a mixture of Tamiya enamel flat brown with raw umber artist oil and applied using a split toothpick and brush. After, I did a little silvering using a 2B pencil. Then I sprayed a very dilute coat of red earth made by mixing some Tamiya orange with red brown mainly focusing on the lower hull. This was very close in colour to MIG's Vietnam Earth pigment. I applied the pigment mixing it with lighter fluid since this doesn't leave tidal marks and from a safety point of view you don't breathe in the pigment dust (I always use a dust mask). I painted the tracks with the same diluted red earth colour followed with some drybrushing with Gunze Lacquer Iron then pigment. One more thing before I forget, I tied down the track at the back between the third and fourth wheel to make it sit more naturally.
Well that's it for now. Next step is to paint the figures and make some small diorama
Sorry about the quality of the photos. When it is all finished, I'll take the time to set up proper lighting.
Well that's it for now. Next step is to paint the figures and make some small diorama
Sorry about the quality of the photos. When it is all finished, I'll take the time to set up proper lighting.
Petition2God
Colorado, United States
Joined: February 06, 2002
KitMaker: 1,526 posts
Armorama: 1,294 posts
Joined: February 06, 2002
KitMaker: 1,526 posts
Armorama: 1,294 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 04:05 AM UTC
Great work, Brett! I may have to add the kit to my stash.
redleg12
New Jersey, United States
Joined: March 11, 2007
KitMaker: 872 posts
Armorama: 831 posts
Joined: March 11, 2007
KitMaker: 872 posts
Armorama: 831 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 05:16 AM UTC
Very nice....good job with the VN earth
Rounds Complete!!
Rounds Complete!!
dioman13
Indiana, United States
Joined: August 19, 2007
KitMaker: 2,184 posts
Armorama: 1,468 posts
Joined: August 19, 2007
KitMaker: 2,184 posts
Armorama: 1,468 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 06:45 AM UTC
That looks like one mean mother, glad I'm not on the receiving end. All that for a good price, must have one also. Your paint job came out real nice, looks the part from my refferance. I take it with the dust and all it will be out in the field fighting off the V.C.? Any one know if they were used for convoy duty?
bpunchy
Western Australia, Australia
Joined: February 22, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
Armorama: 199 posts
Joined: February 22, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
Armorama: 199 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 09:24 AM UTC
Hi Brett , great job , well done .
gmat5037
Hawaii, United States
Joined: November 24, 2008
KitMaker: 103 posts
Armorama: 102 posts
Joined: November 24, 2008
KitMaker: 103 posts
Armorama: 102 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 06, 2010 - 06:54 PM UTC
Super job, Brett. I hope that I can do even a small part as nice as you've done.
I hope that you don't mind, but I'm adding this for those that want to 'guild the lily'. I also posted this at Missing Lynx.
With the release of the Academy Ontos kit, which is lovely, here are some added details for those interested.
The information comes from inspection of the 'Ontos Crewman' site. It is well worth the effort. The quality of the photos is mixed, but they are interesting. To those who haven't visited the site, here is a link:
http://ontos.homestead.com/main.html
1. Antennas. There are two styles noted.
Close together, as seen here in the first pictureby Dennis Marquet:
http://ontosa.homestead.com/dmar.html
Also here taken in Hawaii before movement to Viet Nam. Lynn Terry photo, numbers four and six:
http://ontosd.homestead.com/lt1.html
Compare with the antennas spaced apart: Photo number two, Bruce Beebe photographs:
http://ontosb.homestead.com/bb2.html
Kent photo, 1968:
http://ontosf.homestead.com/samp.html
At Khe Sahn, Dennis Richardson photos, number three:
http://ontosa.homestead.com/drich.html
The Academy appears to provide the mounts but not the antennas for the latter version.
Some Ontos had the wading exhaust extension:
Lynn Terry photos, in Okinawa, before movement to SVn, last one on the bottom:
http://ontosf.homestead.com/lt3a.html
And at at Chu Lai, first and third photos:
http://ontosd.homestead.com/lt6a.html
At Hue, Tet, 1968, Brian Ross Photo:
http://ontosa.homestead.com/sam3.html
Sometimes they carried RR the cleaning rod. First photo, rod on the left side, landing at Da Nang, 1965:
http://ontosa.homestead.com/sam3.html
Using the rod, photo number three:
http://ontos.homestead.com/c22.html
Tank ID letter/numbers could be yellow, white or light gray. I have seen units from both AT Bats with either white/gray or yellow vehicle ID codes.
Light Gray:
http://ontosf.homestead.com/austin1.html
Nickname on the back of the commander's copula hatch, ID code unknown:
http://ontosa.homestead.com/msph5.html
Best wishes,
Grant
I hope that you don't mind, but I'm adding this for those that want to 'guild the lily'. I also posted this at Missing Lynx.
With the release of the Academy Ontos kit, which is lovely, here are some added details for those interested.
The information comes from inspection of the 'Ontos Crewman' site. It is well worth the effort. The quality of the photos is mixed, but they are interesting. To those who haven't visited the site, here is a link:
http://ontos.homestead.com/main.html
1. Antennas. There are two styles noted.
Close together, as seen here in the first pictureby Dennis Marquet:
http://ontosa.homestead.com/dmar.html
Also here taken in Hawaii before movement to Viet Nam. Lynn Terry photo, numbers four and six:
http://ontosd.homestead.com/lt1.html
Compare with the antennas spaced apart: Photo number two, Bruce Beebe photographs:
http://ontosb.homestead.com/bb2.html
Kent photo, 1968:
http://ontosf.homestead.com/samp.html
At Khe Sahn, Dennis Richardson photos, number three:
http://ontosa.homestead.com/drich.html
The Academy appears to provide the mounts but not the antennas for the latter version.
Some Ontos had the wading exhaust extension:
Lynn Terry photos, in Okinawa, before movement to SVn, last one on the bottom:
http://ontosf.homestead.com/lt3a.html
And at at Chu Lai, first and third photos:
http://ontosd.homestead.com/lt6a.html
At Hue, Tet, 1968, Brian Ross Photo:
http://ontosa.homestead.com/sam3.html
Sometimes they carried RR the cleaning rod. First photo, rod on the left side, landing at Da Nang, 1965:
http://ontosa.homestead.com/sam3.html
Using the rod, photo number three:
http://ontos.homestead.com/c22.html
Tank ID letter/numbers could be yellow, white or light gray. I have seen units from both AT Bats with either white/gray or yellow vehicle ID codes.
Light Gray:
http://ontosf.homestead.com/austin1.html
Nickname on the back of the commander's copula hatch, ID code unknown:
http://ontosa.homestead.com/msph5.html
Best wishes,
Grant
Heatseeker64
New South Wales, Australia
Joined: October 05, 2008
KitMaker: 307 posts
Armorama: 305 posts
Joined: October 05, 2008
KitMaker: 307 posts
Armorama: 305 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 06, 2010 - 07:56 PM UTC
Man. that is one ugly "Thing", and I just got to get me one.
Sounds like it has its challenges, but congrats to Academy for thinking outside the square.
I'm inspired to build one!
Sounds like it has its challenges, but congrats to Academy for thinking outside the square.
I'm inspired to build one!
pouikpouik
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Joined: March 03, 2009
KitMaker: 26 posts
Armorama: 25 posts
Joined: March 03, 2009
KitMaker: 26 posts
Armorama: 25 posts
Posted: Monday, March 08, 2010 - 05:25 AM UTC
This one seems to be the first Ontos from Academy on Armorama Thank you for sharing your work with us. I have to get 2 of this...By the way, does Academy give 2 insigna markings or just one??
Great build Brett and see you soon
Great build Brett and see you soon
joegrafton
United Kingdom
Joined: October 04, 2009
KitMaker: 1,209 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Joined: October 04, 2009
KitMaker: 1,209 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Friday, March 12, 2010 - 02:02 PM UTC
Just a thought, but the new USMC figures from Bravo6 would look great with this. You can see them over on Historicus Forma under the news heading.
Excellent build, by the way!
Joe.
Excellent build, by the way!
Joe.
TankSGT
New Jersey, United States
Joined: July 25, 2006
KitMaker: 1,139 posts
Armorama: 946 posts
Joined: July 25, 2006
KitMaker: 1,139 posts
Armorama: 946 posts
Posted: Friday, March 12, 2010 - 08:31 PM UTC
Very nice build, this kit is on my list. You had a question about the jerry cans. It depends on what type of lid the can has as to what it was intended to hold. A screw in cap was for oil or fuel. if the cap was large and hinged it as for water. Jeeps always carried gas in their cans and were usually labeled MOGAS. Not a good Idea to put gas or diesel fuel in your engine. My tank carried one can of 30 weight oil one of 10 and 2 water cans. The water cans were lined in a cream colored enamel.
Tom
Tom
sgtreef
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 13, 2010 - 12:30 AM UTC
Do not how I missed this but a killer job on the kit.
Nice clean build and great weathering all over.
Congrats and I think I will get this kit.
Now where is the dang kit of the M-42 Duster at
Nice clean build and great weathering all over.
Congrats and I think I will get this kit.
Now where is the dang kit of the M-42 Duster at
elph
Seoul, Korea / 대한민국
Joined: November 13, 2005
KitMaker: 319 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Joined: November 13, 2005
KitMaker: 319 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 - 05:35 PM UTC
Thanks all for the comments. I haven't posted anything for some time due to work.
I made a mistake before. I said there were decals for only one Ontos, but there are two, not much different though.
I've made some progress in making a diorama for the Ontos. I'll list the steps as follows:
1. Made a simple top down plan on paper
2. Glued two sheets of styrofoam board together (total 2cm)
3. Cut the styrofoam with a hot wire cutter
4. Carved the road and terrain with box cutters
Next steps will be to coat the base with modelling paste addind rocks and sand and pressing in the soldiers and items.
Any thoughts on the layout or adding items welcome. Thinking of adding some jerrycans. There will be a small tree on the opposite side.
I made a mistake before. I said there were decals for only one Ontos, but there are two, not much different though.
I've made some progress in making a diorama for the Ontos. I'll list the steps as follows:
1. Made a simple top down plan on paper
2. Glued two sheets of styrofoam board together (total 2cm)
3. Cut the styrofoam with a hot wire cutter
4. Carved the road and terrain with box cutters
Next steps will be to coat the base with modelling paste addind rocks and sand and pressing in the soldiers and items.
Any thoughts on the layout or adding items welcome. Thinking of adding some jerrycans. There will be a small tree on the opposite side.
muddyfields
Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: February 04, 2006
KitMaker: 884 posts
Armorama: 622 posts
Joined: February 04, 2006
KitMaker: 884 posts
Armorama: 622 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 04:11 AM UTC
Hi
Looks like you had a job on your hands building this.
Great finish & love the paint job.
Cant wait to see the diorama that your making finished.
Well Done
Shaun
Looks like you had a job on your hands building this.
Great finish & love the paint job.
Cant wait to see the diorama that your making finished.
Well Done
Shaun
Frenchy
Rhone, France
Joined: December 02, 2002
KitMaker: 12,719 posts
Armorama: 12,507 posts
Joined: December 02, 2002
KitMaker: 12,719 posts
Armorama: 12,507 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 04:40 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Any one know if they were used for convoy duty?
From Simon Dunstan's "Vietnam Tracks" book (a must have IMHO) :
"Ontos was initially used in road convoys, but because of its hazardous backblast on firing its value to the column was limited. This shortcoming was compounded by several accidental discharges while on convoy escort with disastrous effect to the vehicle directly ahead. These accidents were caused by the firing cable, sear and trigger working improperly, either separately or together. If the firing cable was adjusted too tightly, vehicle vibration could cause the firing mechanism to release. Thes accidental firings caused restrictions to be placed on the vehicle, limiting its value as a support weapon."
HTH
Frenchy
ShawnM
Missouri, United States
Joined: November 24, 2008
KitMaker: 564 posts
Armorama: 1 posts
Joined: November 24, 2008
KitMaker: 564 posts
Armorama: 1 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 02:10 AM UTC
thank you for sharing your build!
I saw this in a FSM issue and was more then intrigued by it.
Looks like this might be my first attempt at an armor model!
Great resource links in this thread too!
I saw this in a FSM issue and was more then intrigued by it.
Looks like this might be my first attempt at an armor model!
Great resource links in this thread too!
kamikaze
Romania
Joined: October 22, 2005
KitMaker: 102 posts
Armorama: 60 posts
Joined: October 22, 2005
KitMaker: 102 posts
Armorama: 60 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 05:05 AM UTC
For everyone interested in this model, you could also check issue 25 ( nov/dec 2005) of AFV Modeller. Inside is a short history of the "Ontos", lots of pics and an article by David Parker about puting together the only kit available at that time, the Hobbyfan kit. Funny note, "Ontos" is the greek word for "thing".
PantherF
Indiana, United States
Joined: June 10, 2005
KitMaker: 6,188 posts
Armorama: 5,960 posts
Joined: June 10, 2005
KitMaker: 6,188 posts
Armorama: 5,960 posts
Posted: Friday, April 02, 2010 - 01:29 AM UTC
One of these days I'll catch up to all the kits I want, including this one. I also just caught that LionMarc has the aluminum barrels for the Academy Ontos.
http://www.afv-news.com/2010/04/lionmarc-m40a1-barrels/
- Jeff
http://www.afv-news.com/2010/04/lionmarc-m40a1-barrels/
- Jeff
trickymissfit
Joined: October 03, 2007
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
Armorama: 1,357 posts
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
Armorama: 1,357 posts
Posted: Monday, April 05, 2010 - 01:53 PM UTC
finally rememberd to take a tape measure with me when I went down south by that Ontos. It does not set level depending on how you look at it. If you measure from the bottom lip of the fenders to the ground there is about 1.5" of slant in it. But if you measure the bar that couples the whole suspension together the figures are much greater. Right at six inches of slant! (measured at the C/L of the first road wheel and the last road wheel. This track I measured has the complete drive train in it and was actually driven into position before have the doors and access covers tach welded closed. There also may well be a difference between the top barrels and the bottom barrels in the rear unless the bottom ones are captured in somekind of a cast housing. The barrels are pretty strait (once again this track has two different barrels on it). One pair has a slight bell mouth at the muzzel, while the other four have a distinct flange at the muzzel. The bell mouth pair also have recessed rifeling (about 1/2"). Lastly there is a 4.5" rubber pad in the center of each cleat of the track. The track is also different that the kit in a few ways I might add here. There is also a drive lug that goes thru the rubber band track. It seems to be rubber as well, and is a green color.
gary
gary
elph
Seoul, Korea / 대한민국
Joined: November 13, 2005
KitMaker: 319 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Joined: November 13, 2005
KitMaker: 319 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 09:00 PM UTC
Another update. Had a few days of work and tried to complete as much as possible. I'll break down the following steps easily:
1. Added some wooden spars to the bottom of the base so it sits a little of the ground.
2. Coated it in G-Coat Earth, a textured modelling paste. added rocks and my groundwork blend which is fine dirt, used coffee grounds, blended leave litter, blended fine roots and twigs, small stones and some dried out thyme leaves. Finally, added some grass.
3. Used diluted Tamiya acrylics for first coat.
4. Sprayed on second coat
5. Added a wash of sepia oil paint and sprayed a fine final coat
6. Dry brushed the grass, buff, flat green then lime green.
7. Added Mini-Natuur grass tufts.
8. Added MIG's Vietnam Earth pigment all over base.
9. Glued accessories into place weathered with pigment
That's it for the moment. There are a several more accessories to put into place, a little more weathering, the figures and some extra foliage.
Hopefully, I'll get it complete by Saturday - fingers crossed.
1. Added some wooden spars to the bottom of the base so it sits a little of the ground.
2. Coated it in G-Coat Earth, a textured modelling paste. added rocks and my groundwork blend which is fine dirt, used coffee grounds, blended leave litter, blended fine roots and twigs, small stones and some dried out thyme leaves. Finally, added some grass.
3. Used diluted Tamiya acrylics for first coat.
4. Sprayed on second coat
5. Added a wash of sepia oil paint and sprayed a fine final coat
6. Dry brushed the grass, buff, flat green then lime green.
7. Added Mini-Natuur grass tufts.
8. Added MIG's Vietnam Earth pigment all over base.
9. Glued accessories into place weathered with pigment
That's it for the moment. There are a several more accessories to put into place, a little more weathering, the figures and some extra foliage.
Hopefully, I'll get it complete by Saturday - fingers crossed.
muddyfields
Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: February 04, 2006
KitMaker: 884 posts
Armorama: 622 posts
Joined: February 04, 2006
KitMaker: 884 posts
Armorama: 622 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 02:19 AM UTC
Hi
This is coming along very nicely.
The base is looking great.
Shaun
This is coming along very nicely.
The base is looking great.
Shaun
thehannaman
New York, United States
Joined: April 04, 2006
KitMaker: 279 posts
Armorama: 16 posts
Joined: April 04, 2006
KitMaker: 279 posts
Armorama: 16 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 - 02:40 AM UTC
I really like the base. The tufts of grass look especially real.
elph
Seoul, Korea / 대한민국
Joined: November 13, 2005
KitMaker: 319 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Joined: November 13, 2005
KitMaker: 319 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 02, 2010 - 06:55 PM UTC
Finally got round to finishing the Ontos. Hope you like it.
Comments welcome.
Comments welcome.