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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Pre Shading
Easy_Co
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: September 11, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 - 04:11 AM UTC
Hi guys Im trying to explore the Mysteries of Pre Shading Ive checked the features section nothing there,can anyone help i would be most grateful.
scoccia
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Milano, Italy
Joined: September 02, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 - 04:25 AM UTC
Quite easy in my view Easy, Just identify the areas of the model wo have to appear darker and go there to pre-shade either wit black or another darker color that matches your needs. When you give the camo colour try coat as ligth as you can on the pre-shaded areas otherwise all the effect is lost...
If you like you can have a look at the exhausts of my Leopard to see the pre-shading effect...
Ciao

Easy_Co
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England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 - 05:55 AM UTC
Thanks Fabio, Its almost like washes but the other way around, many thanks. bye the way that is a nice Leopard.
screamingeagle
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Connecticut, United States
Joined: January 08, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 - 06:28 AM UTC
Hi again Easy, in addittion to Fabio's good advice, here is a section from Chris Leemans
"Painting Winter Finishes " article over at ML, about the " pre-shading method "
Painting :
The first step is to spray the model in whatever your base colour is going to be. In the case of the Panther I used Tamiya Dark Yellow (XF-60). I always spray with acrylics but if enamels are your preference that will do just fine. Once the base coat was dry I then pre-shaded all the nooks and crannies of the model with Gunze tire black.

For those who don't know pre-shading it's a technique in which a dark colour (usually a dark brown or black) is sprayed into all the joints, crevices and undercuts etc. of a model. It doesn't have to be exact but try and keep the spray width to about 5mm. You will see a lot of aircraft modellers using this method on panel lines and access panels etc. Usually you apply the pre-shading before you do the base coat of the model, building up the colour gradually so that the dark colour will show through your base colour. This gives a nice weathered/shading look to a model.

HERE'S THE ENTIRE ARTICLE : http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/german/clwinter/clwinter.htm

- ralph

Easy_Co
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England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2003 - 08:05 AM UTC
Ralph thou art a gentleman many thanks mate thats cleared up all the mysteries, i think the Stug iv would look good with some of that on it. I will keep you posted.
Kencelot
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Florida, United States
Joined: December 27, 2001
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Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2003 - 08:16 AM UTC
Hey there Easy! I was trying to remember where I stashed this link: ScaleWorkshop Video It's a cool video you can either watch on-line or download and watch offline. It demonstrates the pre-shading technique with a wingy thing, but the idea is the same for armor, or anything else for that matter.
whiterook
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Colorado, United States
Joined: December 18, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2003 - 09:22 AM UTC
Guys:
I want to pre-shade also but don't own a a/b so I'll be useing acrylics and brush. What mix. of paint & water do I use.



Kencelot
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Florida, United States
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Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2003 - 10:09 AM UTC
Whiterook, hmm... I don't think it would be possible to do a pre-shade w/o an AB. I say that only because from experience, pre-shading involves "feathering" the base color over the pre-shade color which is usually black. The base coat is sprayed very lightly over the black, leaving it translucent.
Maybe someone else has another opinion. I've just never heard nor seen it done with a brush.
leogunner
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: September 16, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2003 - 02:12 PM UTC
Hey all,
I've started using this technique myself and I love it. The only problem I found is that it is very easy tio go too heavy on the main colour and ruin the effect. I managed to salvage the job by lightening up the colour a bit and spraying only the flat areas with the lighter shade. Worked out pretty well.
screamingeagle
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Connecticut, United States
Joined: January 08, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2003 - 04:29 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Whiterook, hmm... I don't think it would be possible to do a pre-shade w/o an AB. I say that only because from experience, pre-shading involves "feathering" the base color over the pre-shade color which is usually black. The base coat is sprayed very lightly over the black, leaving it translucent.
Maybe someone else has another opinion. I've just never heard nor seen it done with a brush.



Hi Whiterook, Ken is right, it really is a technique that should be done with an airbrush, to get the proper effect.

- ralph
KFMagee
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2003 - 06:42 PM UTC
Before I bought my airbrush, I achieved almost the same affect by first painting the model in the base color, then doing a subtle "Stain and blot" with artist inks. Not as feathered, but on armor, it looked just great! After the "stain" was dry, I would then go back and add my highlights and other weathering, then seal it all with a coat of Dullcote from a spray can (ModelMaster #1960)
Tin_Can
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Florida, United States
Joined: January 26, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2003 - 10:52 PM UTC
Here's an article by Holdast on preshading:

To Pre-Shade or Not To Pre-Shade?
m60a3
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Georgia, United States
Joined: March 08, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2003 - 11:52 PM UTC
This is a really good step-by-step technique that I found very useful:
Painting and Weathering Trumpeter WZ901
screamingeagle
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Connecticut, United States
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Posted: Friday, August 01, 2003 - 02:03 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Ralph thou art a gentleman many thanks mate thats cleared up all the mysteries, i think the Stug iv would look good with some of that on it. I will keep you posted.



No problemo Easy ! ....... I'm looking forward to see your finshed StuG IV. Keep us posted !

- ralph
Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, August 03, 2003 - 06:11 AM UTC
:-) Thanks Bryan, saved me posting the link. I still haven't done anything about the update because, although, I think I'm right about using white I really do need a new airbrush to have a good crack at it :-)
Mal
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