Hello All!
Been quite a while since I last posted.
Please see pics below, and let me know your thoughts.
Be advise, still needs the flat coat and final pigments... and yes, my figues SUCK. I know...
Thanks!!
Constructive Feedback
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
For in-progress or completed build photos. Give and get contructive feedback!
Hosted by Darren Baker, Dave O'Meara
Critique my Schwimmwagen, please
CJ3B
Puerto Rico
Joined: April 11, 2006
KitMaker: 245 posts
Armorama: 235 posts
Joined: April 11, 2006
KitMaker: 245 posts
Armorama: 235 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 12:51 AM UTC
pasdj002
New South Wales, Australia
Joined: April 20, 2009
KitMaker: 113 posts
Armorama: 102 posts
Joined: April 20, 2009
KitMaker: 113 posts
Armorama: 102 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 02:59 AM UTC
Nice Work.
Its very nicely built up.
I would add a thin coat of Tamiya Buff on the lower half of it, and then coat the entire model in falt to remove the glossy finish. If you have some mig pigments, you could also add them.
Cheers Damian
Its very nicely built up.
I would add a thin coat of Tamiya Buff on the lower half of it, and then coat the entire model in falt to remove the glossy finish. If you have some mig pigments, you could also add them.
Cheers Damian
CJ3B
Puerto Rico
Joined: April 11, 2006
KitMaker: 245 posts
Armorama: 235 posts
Joined: April 11, 2006
KitMaker: 245 posts
Armorama: 235 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 03:22 AM UTC
Thanks, Damian!
Already applied the flat (I use the Microscale Micro Flat product... very good results).
The paints that were used were Tamiya and Gunze, all thinned with alcohol, nad a bit of Verlinden and Royal extras...
All in all, a nice build.
Now, to work a bit the pigments, and we're done.
Thanks for the kind words!
Jorge
Already applied the flat (I use the Microscale Micro Flat product... very good results).
The paints that were used were Tamiya and Gunze, all thinned with alcohol, nad a bit of Verlinden and Royal extras...
All in all, a nice build.
Now, to work a bit the pigments, and we're done.
Thanks for the kind words!
Jorge
dioman13
Indiana, United States
Joined: August 19, 2007
KitMaker: 2,184 posts
Armorama: 1,468 posts
Joined: August 19, 2007
KitMaker: 2,184 posts
Armorama: 1,468 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 25, 2010 - 07:23 AM UTC
Yup, flat coat and I think it's a nice piece. And your figure is not bad, Just add some dark grey where the end inside of the sleeve meets arm and your good to go.
rdwing64
Arizona, United States
Joined: June 24, 2007
KitMaker: 45 posts
Armorama: 42 posts
Joined: June 24, 2007
KitMaker: 45 posts
Armorama: 42 posts
Posted: Monday, April 26, 2010 - 04:47 PM UTC
Very nice! Flat coat would be great
Buckeye198
Ohio, United States
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Friday, August 13, 2010 - 06:16 PM UTC
1. Your figures could kick my figures' butts any day!
2. The obvious flatcote all around, but especially on the bottom half and DEFINITELY the tires and tarps...you could signal an air strike with that shine!!
3. You did an excellent job with the wood bits (paddle, stocks, etc.), but I have some problems with the colors of the wood parts on the small arms. Any Stg-44 I've ever seen tended to have a little less red to the wood used, closer to a very dark pine than a deep cherry or oak (ie, less red, more yellow). Also, the pistol grip was not entirely wood, but metal with textured wood installed on the sides. I have seen them both the same color as the stock or painted dark gunmetal/black. However many color pictures online of MP44's are of airsofts or replicas and I have seen many of those with full wooden pistol grips. No worries there.
4. Although the MG34 was made with a wooden stock, I have rarely seen it with the deep brown wood stain you have it here (not saying it didn't happen...it is just rare). In my experience, I have seen it mainly with an almost black stain...kind of that border shade where the more you stare at it the less you can tell if it's brown or black, you know? Also, by having the different color stocks, the two weapons stand out more from each other, which is important since they are so close together. Wouldn't want people to take a quick look and see two 34's, would you?
5. Where's the driver? With a box on the seat, is it safe to assume he'll be a while before he returns? No big deal...just curious.
But I'm being nitpicky with all this. You have done an excellent job and even if you were to display it right now it would be better than most models on my shelf. Keep up the great work!
2. The obvious flatcote all around, but especially on the bottom half and DEFINITELY the tires and tarps...you could signal an air strike with that shine!!
3. You did an excellent job with the wood bits (paddle, stocks, etc.), but I have some problems with the colors of the wood parts on the small arms. Any Stg-44 I've ever seen tended to have a little less red to the wood used, closer to a very dark pine than a deep cherry or oak (ie, less red, more yellow). Also, the pistol grip was not entirely wood, but metal with textured wood installed on the sides. I have seen them both the same color as the stock or painted dark gunmetal/black. However many color pictures online of MP44's are of airsofts or replicas and I have seen many of those with full wooden pistol grips. No worries there.
4. Although the MG34 was made with a wooden stock, I have rarely seen it with the deep brown wood stain you have it here (not saying it didn't happen...it is just rare). In my experience, I have seen it mainly with an almost black stain...kind of that border shade where the more you stare at it the less you can tell if it's brown or black, you know? Also, by having the different color stocks, the two weapons stand out more from each other, which is important since they are so close together. Wouldn't want people to take a quick look and see two 34's, would you?
5. Where's the driver? With a box on the seat, is it safe to assume he'll be a while before he returns? No big deal...just curious.
But I'm being nitpicky with all this. You have done an excellent job and even if you were to display it right now it would be better than most models on my shelf. Keep up the great work!
vonHengest
Texas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
Armorama: 4,817 posts
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
Armorama: 4,817 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 14, 2010 - 11:46 AM UTC
It's your choice whether or not you want to beat yourself down about your projects (this is said in reference to your comment of your figure).
Your figure is probably better than I could do at this point in time, but overall everything looks nice. I think we would all like to take a look at some pics of the flat coat applied .
Let us know when you've applied the pigments as well.
Your figure is probably better than I could do at this point in time, but overall everything looks nice. I think we would all like to take a look at some pics of the flat coat applied .
Let us know when you've applied the pigments as well.
meaty_hellhound
Alberta, Canada
Joined: July 23, 2010
KitMaker: 786 posts
Armorama: 753 posts
Joined: July 23, 2010
KitMaker: 786 posts
Armorama: 753 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 14, 2010 - 12:36 PM UTC
very nice schwimmer Jorge. nice figure as well as good use of stowed gear. if you would like to do more to the paintwork consider a mud coloured wash applied to the wheels and some powdered pigments around the rims. i am sure you will find many great pics of weathered wheels on this site for inspiration.
before you go ahead and add more detail to the wheels you might want to place the model on a sheet of sandpaper and "flatten" the bottom of the tires to create the impression of weight on the rubber. just lightly sand in a circular motion should help make a realistic effect. cheers, mh
before you go ahead and add more detail to the wheels you might want to place the model on a sheet of sandpaper and "flatten" the bottom of the tires to create the impression of weight on the rubber. just lightly sand in a circular motion should help make a realistic effect. cheers, mh