These are water coolers. Several sizes were available. Here's a vintage 3-Gallon galvanized water cooler made by Igloo :


HTH

Frenchy

Joe,
The Sheridan had one thing going for it that the others didn't! It was called Styrofoam. M113's didn't, and could be easilly penetrated by an RPG (if they could get that close before being shot to pieces). But the Sheridan's hull was rather vulnerable to mines; where an M113 could take a command detentated 105mm mine with a blown road wheel or two. The Sheridan would often be CBL'd. This is why the Sheridan was never the lead track in a column. The Sheridan had three downfalls in it's design that the folks in the states never knew about till right before production stopped. It seems that TACOM or the idiots in the basement of the Whitehouse never bothered to tell anybody about them. The first was the gun launcher itself. It was pretty much unrepairable in the field, and usually ended up with a completely new main gun in the end (I personally credit myself as being the guy who broke the news of this to the manufacturer as they never knew there was a problem). The second was the hydraulic system that was used in operating the loader and recoil system of the main gun. It ran at a very high pressure, and was very prone to wearing out pumps due to them running at a near max pressure in operation (this was later fixed after I once again pointed this out to the manufacturer). The third was that the track needed a bit more horse power to make it more agile. Somewhere in this mess you also have to add the name MacNumara and his ties to Ford Motor Co. Ford was the prime contractor for the missile, and it was junk! (although I was prsent for the famous dog & pony show where they knocked out a nice M88 when they were aiming at an M4 Sherman!!)

The Sheridan's complete life was nothing more than a bad rap. Most folks tried to compair it to the M48, and this was completely wrong. Also don't ever thing the M48 didn't have it's own skeletons, because it did.
gary

I noticed on most M113's in Vietnam that the side skirts have been removed, but the bolts are left in place and are quite pronounced. I have made bits of plastic rod and them finished them with photo etch bolt heads to replicate this. I felt the bolt heads in photo etch alone were too subtle on their own given the images I looked at.

Please give me some advice on the two attached photos. The one indicates the hinged 'hood' of the M113 above the engine block. I presume that the fan sucks out exhaust fumes? If some then the inside and the outside section would be quite full of smoke residue....?

The other photo is one of the backpacks supplied with the aftermarket resin kits. I am just not sure what the two items are on the backpack in order to paint them correctly. I am pretty sure that a few of you will be able to point me in the right direction. Thanks




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Hi Nick,
I'd love to help but all I can see are red crosses.
Try to re-post the photos, mate.
Joe.

Hi, you need to change the filename extension from JPG to jpg.

Here's my old M-113 after a couple months in the field:

I have managed to work a little more on this build. Boy, have I made mistakes, anyway - soldier on! I decided to add the recoilless rifle (even though I have only seen one pic of a Vietnam M113 with this installation). I liked the variation on the vehicle. Every time I added an item, it seemed like I had to hack another two off to get it to fit. I intend displaying it in a little diorama, with the back flap open, so am not going to detail the exterior of that as it will not be seen. I sprayed it with primer and then started painting. I have mixed my own concoction with various Tamiya acrylics. I have currently used two shades for variation as well as shading and wear/bleaching.

Here are some more (from Zippo132 Picasa albums)







Frenchy

Hi Nick,
I wondered where you'd got to. Only last night I was thinking that we hadn't heard from you in a while.
Anyway, I'm glad to see you're making headway with the 113.
Still looking good! What was your combination of colours to get the OD finish?
Keep going, mate.
Joe.

Thanks Frenchy

I don't know how you do it! I am going to display the engine and top cover open, so the recoilless rifle will have to be moved away to allow for this. I have also made a cover for the end of the barrel to keep it clean. My understanding is that if there was a sudden need to use it, then they would merely fire the weapon with the cover still in place.

Hi Joe

I don't always get much time to spend modelling, but am trying to be on it now. Did you receive all those pics I uploaded for you?

I don't have access to a real M113 or any US armour of that period so go by photos to get the colours. I know that this is problematic, but generally try to look at surrounding vegetation or peoples' skin tones to judge the accuracy of the actual vehicle colour. I mixed Tamiya Olive Drab, Olive Green and Dark Green as well as some Black. My intention is to have a diorama with a Sheridan and M113 - the tank will have a slightly different green (darker). Once I have also applied finishes, etc - it will then also alter the appearance of the colour. I personally don't like it when a used military vehicle is too matt. With wear, cleaning, general scuffing, etc, there always tends to be a little bit of a sheen after a while (under the dust and mud!)

Hi Nick,
Yes, I did get those photos you sent me but I thought I emailed to let you know. Oh buddy, I'm so sorry if you didn't get it. Now I look extremely rude, dont I!
Nick, thanks mate for the photos you sent through a little while back. I really appreciate all your help.

Thanks also for letting me know your paint mixture. The model's looking great so far!
Joe.

No sweat Joe,

I am just pleased you received the images - I thought I may have done something stupid with the links, etc.

I will still scan those others, but it will be sometime before I can get to that I think.

WRT the paint mix - from what I make of Vietnam vehicles, they just don't look as yellow as the Tamiya Olive Drab and I was trying to impart a slightly more bluey green to the OD?

Cheers

Some progress shots. Trying to finish up the external bits and bobs to paint.

Started painting. Put on a primer and then started an olive drab. I used a darker tone around the running gear and along the edges, then used a lighter tone of the same colour to lighten it up - age it?

OK - so I put a gloss coat on and placed the transfers, but I struggled with them. They just remained visible (around the edges). I tried overcoating them to reduce the effect, but it really was no good. Anyway during this lovely process, I dropped the model - ##@***$%# !!!!! So I had to fix it up. Deep breath. And on with the paint job.




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What type of glue did you use for the cardboard boxes? I have had a hell of a time keeping my to stay together.
Tom

Hi Tom

I used white (wood) glue and just held them together for a little bit -seems to be fine. Some of the paper is a little bit gloss, but they all seem to be OK. I have never glued little boxes before, but white glue is good for paper and sticks well once dry. I used it on the little posters on the fuel tank too. I first sanded down the paper of the posters to make them very thin - especially the edges (which I didn't want to see at all).

Nick

Thank you. I had been using glue sticks and they don't want to hold. I'll try the white glue. Looking good keep keep the good work. If possible try and post a little bit bigger photo.
Tom

Hi Tom

I was in a bit of a hurry with the last batch of postings. I have updated three sets of pics with the larger size - I actually posted thumbnails before .

I have seen from images that the M113 looks like it used extremely good paint. There appears to be only minor chipping even though they were really abused. Most of the weathering is scratches from branches and then mud and dust. I will add in some chips just for relief of the colour, but keep it faily muted and subtle. I will post some pics as I progress.

Not looking forward to the tracks - they are individual links in the kit. I haven't ever done something like this. Anybody have any tips?

Amazing work on the interior Nick! Looking forward to the next installment.

Yeah, the paint on these vehicles is very durable. In 2001 we still had some M113 with the original olive drab paint in service in Switzerland. It was faded and had a few patches (probably from knockin over things or something) but was generally still in good shape. the interior was a bit chipped though.

As for the tracks... Patience and a break here and there will do you good for one thing... How are they built up? Working with pins or just the links to glue together? In the latter case just glue them together with slow setting plastic cement. Once it's started to dry it will still be flexible for a while and you can make it conform around the wheels. I usually make two parts for each side and attach them with the drive sprocket. One goes from around the drive sprocket to the last road wheel and the other covers the rest. You can paint them and attach them before overall weathering. Hope it's clear what I mean...

Cheers!
Stefan

Hi Stefan

Thanks for that. They are individual injection moulded links attached to sprues. Each one has to be cleaned up first - tedious! I have been dreading starting them, but the time is near, so I will have to face my demons.....I wish I could just say "abracadabra" and be done. I think I should rather do wheeled vehicles - just kidding.

The M113 does not show much sag really and I would like to dirty up the whole lower area - sort of a mix of mud and dust. I will do that before the wheels & tracks or I won't be able to do it properly afterwards.

Cheers
Nick

Hi Nick,
Great to see some quality workmanship! I'm looking forward to some more photos!
Joe.

OK - eventually I have been able to get back to modelling after two months or so.

I have added the engine hood, driver's hatch and also the Browning position.
I am trying to work out where to add the paraphenalia around the top without also hiding all the detail. I would also prefer a change in the colours to offset the OD, so cardboard boxes, etc will help too.

I have also started to do some mud before placing the wheels. The tracks come next and am not looking forward to them. They are individual link, with terrible sink marks in the middle of most of the rubber patches. They are also fixed to the sprue with 5 locating bits, which then have to be cleaned off - very tedious.

I have put a little wash on the overall suface, but will work on this some more. I have also added a lot of scratches along the side - not particularly happy with the overall, but maybe once some washes are over them, it will improve.