I am just getting started on my DML ¼ Ton 4X4 Truck kit. I will be adding the DML 50 cal machine gun to it on a scratch built pedestal.
I fully expect this to be a multi-month project, as I have a lot planned.
I stopped by the hobby shop and they had an engine kit for it.
Just kidding, like the Kettenkrad, I am going to go ahead and scratch build the engine.
If anyone has the DML engine from the DX08 convention, I would love to see some pictures of it outside of the jeep and could use some basic dimensions off of it.
Has anyone been able to separate the tires from the rims? I have been looking at them and can not figure out how to do it.
I have just begun cutting parts off the sprue, so there will be more to follow . . .
Hosted by Darren Baker
DML 1/4 Ton 4x4 Truck
plane_mc
Florida, United States
Joined: March 25, 2008
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Posted: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 - 12:32 PM UTC
sgtreef
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 - 12:34 PM UTC
I will be watching as I know will turn into a masterpiece.
So let the pics begin.
So let the pics begin.
plane_mc
Florida, United States
Joined: March 25, 2008
KitMaker: 91 posts
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Joined: March 25, 2008
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Posted: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 09:24 AM UTC
It’s time to start posting some pictures. I don’t have a lot done yet, but I am getting started.
I glued up the springs, axles and transfer case.
Nothing exciting there, I have a lot to clean up on them and haven’t felt like doing it yet.
I cleaned up the frame and started filling in the open spaces. I know that most of it won’t all show, but it will drive me crazy if I know it isn’t finished all the way, even if it doesn’t always show. I am looking at trying to make the body removable if I can figure out a way to do it. I also made the pedestal support that gets welded to the frame. I have not attached it yet, I want to finish with the filling first.
Speaking of the pedestal, I got started on that too. I have the basics built, but there are still details to be added.
The hood has the lubrication chart holder molded in to it as a solid piece. I sanded that off and added a new one made out of .020 sheet styrene and put rivets on both sides.
And of course, what’s the purpose of having the holder without the chart?
I also acquired the ammunition and boxes for the 50 cal. These linked shells are really nice.
Well, that’s it for now. Hopefully I will have more to post soon, but right now it is mostly just a lot of sanding and scraping to clean up the parts.
I glued up the springs, axles and transfer case.
Nothing exciting there, I have a lot to clean up on them and haven’t felt like doing it yet.
I cleaned up the frame and started filling in the open spaces. I know that most of it won’t all show, but it will drive me crazy if I know it isn’t finished all the way, even if it doesn’t always show. I am looking at trying to make the body removable if I can figure out a way to do it. I also made the pedestal support that gets welded to the frame. I have not attached it yet, I want to finish with the filling first.
Speaking of the pedestal, I got started on that too. I have the basics built, but there are still details to be added.
The hood has the lubrication chart holder molded in to it as a solid piece. I sanded that off and added a new one made out of .020 sheet styrene and put rivets on both sides.
And of course, what’s the purpose of having the holder without the chart?
I also acquired the ammunition and boxes for the 50 cal. These linked shells are really nice.
Well, that’s it for now. Hopefully I will have more to post soon, but right now it is mostly just a lot of sanding and scraping to clean up the parts.
sgtreef
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 10:48 AM UTC
Looking good Mark.
I like where you are going with the hood chart holder plus filling the side frame in.
Yep good idea.
I will be keeping an eye on it.
Plus that engine that came in plastic sheet and strips and tube.
I like where you are going with the hood chart holder plus filling the side frame in.
Yep good idea.
I will be keeping an eye on it.
Plus that engine that came in plastic sheet and strips and tube.
plane_mc
Florida, United States
Joined: March 25, 2008
KitMaker: 91 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 12:23 PM UTC
Juankar,
Here is the link to where I got the ammo. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280378972946&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1123
The ammo boxes I got from another seller, but I got the last 2 that were listed at the time.
Here is the link to where I got the ammo. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280378972946&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1123
The ammo boxes I got from another seller, but I got the last 2 that were listed at the time.
sgtreef
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 12:36 AM UTC
Mark
So shipping is free on the belt I need one for my other 50 that I stole the belt from.
Good deal if true.
Question where did you get the charts from?
Download and print?
That mount is killer so far.
Hint fill that front piece on the chassis
Forgot on mine as a little visible at the end,but maybe with your engine might not be.
And if you want me to keep quite just let me know.
I can take a hint.
So shipping is free on the belt I need one for my other 50 that I stole the belt from.
Good deal if true.
Question where did you get the charts from?
Download and print?
That mount is killer so far.
Hint fill that front piece on the chassis
Forgot on mine as a little visible at the end,but maybe with your engine might not be.
And if you want me to keep quite just let me know.
I can take a hint.
plane_mc
Florida, United States
Joined: March 25, 2008
KitMaker: 91 posts
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Posted: Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 05:19 AM UTC
Yes Jeff, the shipping is free. It took about 1 1/2 weeks to get them. Well worth the money in my eyes.
I am going to fill all the openings on the frame, the pictures only show my progress so far.
For the chart, I stumbled across 2 separate images (both sides) while I was searching for other details. I re-sized them to match each other and to be the correct size and then printed them on both sides of a piece of cardstock. I then laminated both sides with packing tape. It fits in the holder just perfect.
Jeff, now I have a question for you. Where did you get the empty 50 cal casings that you have scattered on the floor of your jeep? Did you just drill out some of the regular ones?
Everyone please keep up with the hints/comments/suggestions, it helps out in the long run and I am not the least bit offended by any of them.
I am going to fill all the openings on the frame, the pictures only show my progress so far.
For the chart, I stumbled across 2 separate images (both sides) while I was searching for other details. I re-sized them to match each other and to be the correct size and then printed them on both sides of a piece of cardstock. I then laminated both sides with packing tape. It fits in the holder just perfect.
Jeff, now I have a question for you. Where did you get the empty 50 cal casings that you have scattered on the floor of your jeep? Did you just drill out some of the regular ones?
Everyone please keep up with the hints/comments/suggestions, it helps out in the long run and I am not the least bit offended by any of them.
sgtreef
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
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Posted: Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 01:21 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Yes Jeff, the shipping is free. It took about 1 1/2 weeks to get them. Well worth the money in my eyes.
I am going to fill all the openings on the frame, the pictures only show my progress so far.
For the chart, I stumbled across 2 separate images (both sides) while I was searching for other details. I re-sized them to match each other and to be the correct size and then printed them on both sides of a piece of cardstock. I then laminated both sides with packing tape. It fits in the holder just perfect.
Jeff, now I have a question for you. Where did you get the empty 50 cal casings that you have scattered on the floor of your jeep? Did you just drill out some of the regular ones?
Everyone please keep up with the hints/comments/suggestions, it helps out in the long run and I am not the least bit offended by any of them.
Yes I did Mark that is why only three all I could handle.
If you Remember David Dibb bought like 3 or 5 sets of these and wants to put them on the Quad 50 he made all like empty good luck to him.
Cheers
Posted: Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 02:29 PM UTC
Hi Mark. Looking forward to this build. I enjoyed the Kettenkrad build, so will be following this one as well. Good luck!!
plane_mc
Florida, United States
Joined: March 25, 2008
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Posted: Sunday, August 15, 2010 - 03:19 AM UTC
I guess it’s time for an update.
I have been busy cleaning up seams and finished filling in the gaps in the chassis. I glued down the pedestal bracket and added the underside bracing and welds to it.
I also filled in the holes in the springs were the kit shocks mount and made my own shocks and mounts. I still need to drill the mounts for the cotter pins that will hold the shocks in place, but the rest of the mounts are finished.
You can see the kit shocks in the picture as well as my new shocks.
I also started adding details to the axles and differential covers. I started adding the text to the covers, but the only lettering I have is too big, so I took it off.
I started working on the engine. I cut out some of the parts for the block and got them glued together.
I started adding more of the detail to the block, and then I realized I misinterpreted the picture I was looking at and added concave shapes instead of convex shapes. I ended up cutting those details off and haven’t felt like working on it since. Instead, I concentrated on the details above to get a break from the engine for now.
Well, that’s it for now, I am slowly plugging away at this. It is going to be a long term project!
I have been busy cleaning up seams and finished filling in the gaps in the chassis. I glued down the pedestal bracket and added the underside bracing and welds to it.
I also filled in the holes in the springs were the kit shocks mount and made my own shocks and mounts. I still need to drill the mounts for the cotter pins that will hold the shocks in place, but the rest of the mounts are finished.
You can see the kit shocks in the picture as well as my new shocks.
I also started adding details to the axles and differential covers. I started adding the text to the covers, but the only lettering I have is too big, so I took it off.
I started working on the engine. I cut out some of the parts for the block and got them glued together.
I started adding more of the detail to the block, and then I realized I misinterpreted the picture I was looking at and added concave shapes instead of convex shapes. I ended up cutting those details off and haven’t felt like working on it since. Instead, I concentrated on the details above to get a break from the engine for now.
Well, that’s it for now, I am slowly plugging away at this. It is going to be a long term project!
kowalski
Baleares, Spain / España
Joined: July 27, 2009
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Posted: Sunday, August 15, 2010 - 05:43 AM UTC
Amazing. I´ve just added your build to My favorites.
I was not sure about buying the kit but I have just taken the decision no matter what my wife says.
I was not sure about buying the kit but I have just taken the decision no matter what my wife says.
sgtreef
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
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Posted: Monday, August 16, 2010 - 12:26 AM UTC
Looking good Mark.
I like your shock mounts better then mine.
Nice and clean good deal.
The frame coming along good also.
Going to be a killer.
I guess you figured out that the front ones need to be where they are for the body to fit.
Nice looking start to the engine.
Keep it coming.
Watch where you put those braces on the 50 cal mount as to the seats.
Found that out the hard way.
I like your shock mounts better then mine.
Nice and clean good deal.
The frame coming along good also.
Going to be a killer.
I guess you figured out that the front ones need to be where they are for the body to fit.
Nice looking start to the engine.
Keep it coming.
Watch where you put those braces on the 50 cal mount as to the seats.
Found that out the hard way.
Rattler
Texas, United States
Joined: November 23, 2002
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Joined: November 23, 2002
KitMaker: 512 posts
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Posted: Monday, August 16, 2010 - 08:53 AM UTC
Mark,
Great job so far man... I was curious would you maybe post what items you are using to scratch build with, size an such.
some day I'd like to tackle such a project..... least when I can find the bloody jeep...
great work, looking forward to more updates.
Great job so far man... I was curious would you maybe post what items you are using to scratch build with, size an such.
some day I'd like to tackle such a project..... least when I can find the bloody jeep...
great work, looking forward to more updates.
plane_mc
Florida, United States
Joined: March 25, 2008
KitMaker: 91 posts
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Joined: March 25, 2008
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Posted: Monday, August 16, 2010 - 10:49 AM UTC
Thanks Chris. I am using sheet, strip, rod and tube styrene in various sizes from 0.020" though 0.080" for the sheet and strips and 1/16" through 1/2" for the rod and tubing. I searched for and downloaded as many pictures as I could find for the details. I then compare the sizes to known sizes on the kit to get the dimensions. I am not such a rivet counter that everything has to be exact. As long as it looks right, that is good enough for me.
Jeff, how did you attach the rear wheel/brake backing plate to the axle on your jeep? The hole in the plate that goes over the axle also gets filled by the wheel back. There is no way both of them fit in the same hole at the same time. I have an idea of how I am going to handle it, but I was wondering how you did it.
Jeff, how did you attach the rear wheel/brake backing plate to the axle on your jeep? The hole in the plate that goes over the axle also gets filled by the wheel back. There is no way both of them fit in the same hole at the same time. I have an idea of how I am going to handle it, but I was wondering how you did it.
sgtreef
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
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Posted: Monday, August 16, 2010 - 12:34 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks Chris. I am using sheet, strip, rod and tube styrene in various sizes from 0.020" though 0.080" for the sheet and strips and 1/16" through 1/2" for the rod and tubing. I searched for and downloaded as many pictures as I could find for the details. I then compare the sizes to known sizes on the kit to get the dimensions. I am not such a rivet counter that everything has to be exact. As long as it looks right, that is good enough for me.
Jeff, how did you attach the rear wheel/brake backing plate to the axle on your jeep? The hole in the plate that goes over the axle also gets filled by the wheel back. There is no way both of them fit in the same hole at the same time. I have an idea of how I am going to handle it, but I was wondering how you did it.
Mark
Had to cut the axle as it sticks out to much ,just glued on one side {epoxy} after which I glued the other with white glue to hold the axle in.
As I am not moving it.
But I can remove it if needed
Brake drum just regular Tamiya green cap glue.
Any help there.
Looking good still.
PS do not worry to much about anything underneath as most will not be seen.
plane_mc
Florida, United States
Joined: March 25, 2008
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Posted: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 - 05:04 AM UTC
Thanks Jeff, that is what I needed to know.
plane_mc
Florida, United States
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Posted: Friday, August 20, 2010 - 10:31 AM UTC
Here’s a quick update on what I have been doing this week.
I didn’t like the way the rear brake drums attached to the rear axle. The part that attaches to the rim gets pushed onto a metal shaft that goes through the plastic axle. The problem is, the brake drum has an opening that both the rim and the axle are supposed to fit into, but there is no way for them both to be there at the same time. The pictures show what I am talking about. I decided to modify the brake drum backing plate and create a new mounting system. I used some 7/16” tubing to fit around the axle and used my dremel to create the pieces that go on the brake drum. I added some bolts and then sanded off a little of the piece that attaches to the rim so there will be no interference. I will now be able to solidly mount the brake drums to the axle and still be able to attach the wheels with a positive connection.
While I was at it, I modified the backs of the brake drums to include the brake line connection, the bleed valve, the brake adjuster bolts and other details. On the front drums, I added some sheet styrene to the bottom of the steering linkages to fill in open areas. I will be adding brake lines when I get the axles finished up.
One thing that has been really bothering me about this kit is the way the u-bolts are portrayed. They are molded along with the axle and springs, making them have a joint because they are separate parts. In addition, there are only 3 lines (bolts) molded on the rear axles instead of 4. Also, there are no nuts or bolts sticking through the bottom of the shock/spring plate at the bottom of the assembly and the u-bolts as they are molded are right at the edge and partially hanging over the edge of the mounting plates. I used my trusty dremel and removed the molded on u-bolts and plates. I then created new u-bolts out of 0.080 styrene rod and new plates out of sheet styrene. I will be adding the nuts on them after final assembly. I think the pictures speak for themselves as to the difference this modification makes. I haven’t cleaned up the putty yet, I will do that this weekend.
I have a question for anyone that has built this kit already. Has anyone cut off the supports that go between the axles and the frame? They shouldn’t be there, but I understand why DML molded it that way, there is going to be a lot of weight on the springs. I am wondering if the shocks will be enough to hold the body up without the springs sagging over time.
That’s it for now, thanks for looking.
I didn’t like the way the rear brake drums attached to the rear axle. The part that attaches to the rim gets pushed onto a metal shaft that goes through the plastic axle. The problem is, the brake drum has an opening that both the rim and the axle are supposed to fit into, but there is no way for them both to be there at the same time. The pictures show what I am talking about. I decided to modify the brake drum backing plate and create a new mounting system. I used some 7/16” tubing to fit around the axle and used my dremel to create the pieces that go on the brake drum. I added some bolts and then sanded off a little of the piece that attaches to the rim so there will be no interference. I will now be able to solidly mount the brake drums to the axle and still be able to attach the wheels with a positive connection.
While I was at it, I modified the backs of the brake drums to include the brake line connection, the bleed valve, the brake adjuster bolts and other details. On the front drums, I added some sheet styrene to the bottom of the steering linkages to fill in open areas. I will be adding brake lines when I get the axles finished up.
One thing that has been really bothering me about this kit is the way the u-bolts are portrayed. They are molded along with the axle and springs, making them have a joint because they are separate parts. In addition, there are only 3 lines (bolts) molded on the rear axles instead of 4. Also, there are no nuts or bolts sticking through the bottom of the shock/spring plate at the bottom of the assembly and the u-bolts as they are molded are right at the edge and partially hanging over the edge of the mounting plates. I used my trusty dremel and removed the molded on u-bolts and plates. I then created new u-bolts out of 0.080 styrene rod and new plates out of sheet styrene. I will be adding the nuts on them after final assembly. I think the pictures speak for themselves as to the difference this modification makes. I haven’t cleaned up the putty yet, I will do that this weekend.
I have a question for anyone that has built this kit already. Has anyone cut off the supports that go between the axles and the frame? They shouldn’t be there, but I understand why DML molded it that way, there is going to be a lot of weight on the springs. I am wondering if the shocks will be enough to hold the body up without the springs sagging over time.
That’s it for now, thanks for looking.
sgtreef
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
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Posted: Friday, August 20, 2010 - 11:30 PM UTC
Sweet deal on the Ubolts I wanted to but said heck with it.
Brass would of been better I think.
thread the ends and real miniature nuts and washers.
Ever see this here?
http://www.xs4all.nl/~rdrnl/Littleplates.htm
Might answer that question of cutting anything loose.
I like the axle deal indeed good job there,very nice.
All saved for future reference I do not know why never will build another one.
Ever do a Swimwagen?
Think will add that to the list.
Cheers
Still wondering what happened to torchy?
Brass would of been better I think.
thread the ends and real miniature nuts and washers.
Ever see this here?
http://www.xs4all.nl/~rdrnl/Littleplates.htm
Might answer that question of cutting anything loose.
I like the axle deal indeed good job there,very nice.
All saved for future reference I do not know why never will build another one.
Ever do a Swimwagen?
Think will add that to the list.
Cheers
Still wondering what happened to torchy?
plane_mc
Florida, United States
Joined: March 25, 2008
KitMaker: 91 posts
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Joined: March 25, 2008
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Posted: Sunday, August 22, 2010 - 12:11 AM UTC
I haven't built the Swimwagen, only the Kettenkrad.
plane_mc
Florida, United States
Joined: March 25, 2008
KitMaker: 91 posts
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Joined: March 25, 2008
KitMaker: 91 posts
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Posted: Monday, September 13, 2010 - 12:39 PM UTC
I guess it’s time to post again. I have been steadily working along. It doesn’t look like much progress, but I am getting the details worked out and really am getting somewhere.
I modified the front brake drums/backing plates so I could attach them to the axles without the wheels attached. I added brake lines and now both axles are now for the most part finished up and ready to mount to the chassis.
I cut the “oil can” that was molded to the firewall off and created my own. I still need to make a bracket for it.
I also have been working on the engine some more, not a whole lot of new stuff, but it is starting to take shape. I have figured out how to make many of the parts, now it is just the time consuming job of actually making them.
That’s all for now, thanks for looking.
I modified the front brake drums/backing plates so I could attach them to the axles without the wheels attached. I added brake lines and now both axles are now for the most part finished up and ready to mount to the chassis.
I cut the “oil can” that was molded to the firewall off and created my own. I still need to make a bracket for it.
I also have been working on the engine some more, not a whole lot of new stuff, but it is starting to take shape. I have figured out how to make many of the parts, now it is just the time consuming job of actually making them.
That’s all for now, thanks for looking.
Rubicon
California, United States
Joined: February 18, 2009
KitMaker: 125 posts
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Joined: February 18, 2009
KitMaker: 125 posts
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Posted: Monday, September 13, 2010 - 02:51 PM UTC
very nice.
vonHengest
Texas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2010
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Posted: Monday, September 13, 2010 - 03:07 PM UTC
Mark: I'm really liking your scratch and superdetailing. Seeing the brake lines and all the nuts and bolts kinda hits close to home, you've got me wanting to build one of these up like yours now. Keep up the great work mate!