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Armor/AFV: Techniques
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Rubber band tracks:creating sag?
Paulski
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Noord-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: October 03, 2010
KitMaker: 13 posts
Armorama: 8 posts
Posted: Monday, October 11, 2010 - 10:10 AM UTC
The link and length tracks of my KV-1 are on their way to the trash can, because I can't get them to fit nicely.

Since I don't want to spend 30 Euro's on aftermarket tracks for a model I paid less than 20 for, I decided to use the rubber tracks supplied in the kit. I would still like to create at least a little bit of sag, but the point is, I don't exactly know how...

I know there is a way that involves drilling small holes in the sides of the hull, but I have no clue what to stick in them, without it being too visible.

Anyone any experience with this?
CMOT
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ARMORAMA
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: May 14, 2006
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Posted: Monday, October 11, 2010 - 10:54 AM UTC
I have created sag in a rubber band type track by passing thin metal rods through holes in the body that hold the track in a sagged position. It is not perfect but if you weather the model it hides the wire.
ltb073
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New York, United States
Joined: March 08, 2010
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Posted: Monday, October 11, 2010 - 11:04 AM UTC
I have found that if you put some glue on the roller, then wedge some rolled up paper in between the tread and the top of the tank. let it sit for a day or so and remove the paper the tread will have a sagged appearance.
Rouse713
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: February 03, 2009
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Posted: Monday, October 11, 2010 - 11:19 AM UTC
I am building an Elefant right now.

The kit came with the rubber band tracks. I purchased from Cyber hobby magic track replacements. I am good with the magic tracks and the Elefant I believe has the longest sag out of any tank? I have seen too many rubber's that look poor on Elefants. It needs indies.


For a KV-1 with enough idlers, you should be able to use the rubbers. I have read somewhere that people dip the track in warm water and then shape it around the rollers. Just google "Dragon DS track warm water" or something to that extent.


Mark
slodder
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
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Posted: Monday, October 11, 2010 - 12:26 PM UTC
You can also use thread and loop it around through the tracks over the wheel and back down. Tie underneath and weather it well
bmikk1
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Utah, United States
Joined: February 15, 2008
KitMaker: 199 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Monday, October 11, 2010 - 01:52 PM UTC

Quoted Text

You can also use thread and loop it around through the tracks over the wheel and back down. Tie underneath and weather it well



I agree, I have had luck with thread tying it to the upper rollers. I like to use black thread and if you are careful in its placement you won't be able to see it.
Violetrock
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European Union
Joined: March 09, 2003
KitMaker: 831 posts
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Posted: Monday, October 11, 2010 - 10:00 PM UTC
Paul,

I have a set of the link and length tracks for the kit which I donīt need. Send me a message And I will send you the tracks.

Thomas
Paulski
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Noord-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: October 03, 2010
KitMaker: 13 posts
Armorama: 8 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 - 12:03 AM UTC
Thanks for the replies everyone



Quoted Text

Paul,

I have a set of the link and length tracks for the kit which I donīt need. Send me a message And I will send you the tracks.

Thomas



That's very kind of you, but I'm afraid I would have the same problems I had with my link and length tracks.

I think I'll go for the thin metal rods, just need to think where I can get them.
alanmac
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United Kingdom
Joined: February 25, 2007
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Posted: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 - 12:29 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks for the replies everyone



Quoted Text

Paul,

I have a set of the link and length tracks for the kit which I donīt need. Send me a message And I will send you the tracks.

Thomas



That's very kind of you, but I'm afraid I would have the same problems I had with my link and length tracks.

I think I'll go for the thin metal rods, just need to think where I can get them.



Large/giant sized paper clips maybe, pulled straight.

Alan
pipesmoker
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Virginia, United States
Joined: January 31, 2002
KitMaker: 649 posts
Armorama: 379 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 14, 2010 - 01:59 AM UTC
Straight/dressmakers pins
cut the head off
wedge track down on wheel/idler
hold pin w/needlenose pliers
heat the point
use heated end to pierce the side above the track (hold pin steady, you don't want to enlarge the hole you just made)
plastic should harden quickly
paint pin black
Just something to try....

Paulski
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Noord-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: October 03, 2010
KitMaker: 13 posts
Armorama: 8 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 14, 2010 - 12:08 PM UTC
I think I'll go for the dressmaker pins, but I was thinking to drill the holes with a pinvise and glue them, instead of melting them into the hull. The pins should stay straight if the holes are tight enough, since the hull sides are extra thick

However, I'm thinking to put my KV-1 aside for at least a little while. I don't know what it is, but I'm just not having fun with it at the moment
thebear
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: November 15, 2002
KitMaker: 3,960 posts
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Posted: Thursday, October 14, 2010 - 03:25 PM UTC
Hi Paul ..the straight pins are the way to go for this technique but if you don't want them to be forced upwards by the tension of the track over time ...leave the pin quite long on the inside of the hull and make supports out of some scrap styrene ... I made a V cut in the middle to keep the pin in place and my pins have strayed in place for many years...

http://membres.multimania.fr/barkmann/galerie/redsteel/images/kv1b-rc/kv.jpg

Rick
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