Attempt was not bad, just a few things we look for a car fender (since rubber sheet) does not break sharply, but the curved ends.
The corrected upper deck gun, because I see little "squint".
The tracks can only be clean of rust, if it is a long time, and where the rubber meets metal (teeth), he wears nicely polished, refined, this is even more true in the sand, like a fine abrasive powder.
The infrared lamps are always black, (front, the traditional silver and chrome), a marker lamps (if you filter on it), red front, rear, and the tower are green, white or both, of the former models is given.
If you change these you can cope.
Well done, more!

Here is my Hungarian Shilka (Is so clear, because past performance is sought).
You can draw inspiration from it.
http://cid-ee536f896a8bd757.office.live.com/browse.aspx/Makettek/ZSU-23-4%20V1%20%5E5early%5E6%20Shilka%201-35%20Dragon/ZSU-23-4%20V1%5EJ%2023-19%5EJ%2069.H.K.E.%20L%C3%A9gv.%C3%BC.%5EJ%20Nagyat%C3%A1d

It's the details that kill me. I still new to using PE parts and it can be fustrating. CA glue and I don't mix well. Tried soldering a few boxes on my S-10 Strela and am having mixed results (first time I ever used a soldering iron in my life).

I was working on the Eastern Express BDM-2 and wound up junking it after several attemps on life support.

I need to watch some vids on how to work with PE frets. I've got the Mission Models workstation and small pen type tool for curves. I also have the curve bender from "The Small Shop". I just sorry I didn't got for the PE workstation from JMC.

I also need some instruction on using pigments. I passed on the pigments from MIG and went for the Brigadoon stuff. Same product, just much less expensive. Briadoon doesn't pluck down $$$$$ for adverstizing.

Rob