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Magach 6B
dylans
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British Columbia, Canada
Joined: March 05, 2009
KitMaker: 394 posts
Armorama: 380 posts
Posted: Friday, February 18, 2011 - 01:05 PM UTC
This is the Italeri M60 Blazer kit, built completely OOB. I am sure that it is not 100% accurate but i dont really care about that anyway. I built it to test out some painting and weathering techniques.
my last experiment turned out ok but i think the presahding was a little too heavy
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/171514&page=1

this time i have left off the black preshade and just used a lightened base colour to highlight some of the panels. I think the wash/filter will probably do the job of preshading since the model has lots of detail.

once again commemts and suggestions are welcome











dylans
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British Columbia, Canada
Joined: March 05, 2009
KitMaker: 394 posts
Armorama: 380 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 19, 2011 - 09:56 AM UTC
got the wash/filter on it today












dylans
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British Columbia, Canada
Joined: March 05, 2009
KitMaker: 394 posts
Armorama: 380 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 06:22 PM UTC
hmmm over 140 views and nothing. is it that crappy?
_Viper_
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Roma, Italy
Joined: April 15, 2010
KitMaker: 163 posts
Armorama: 86 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 06:38 PM UTC
Dylan,

To me it looks great. I am no expert and I am tackling my first model (an IDF tank BTW), and I wiah it will turn out as good as yours.

One question: is the turret V painted on or a decal? Same for the main gun stripes? Also, I assume the post-weathering pics are taken after you have also "flattened" the base, right?

Well, that was eventually three questions...

Me, I really like it. Thanks for sharing.

dylans
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British Columbia, Canada
Joined: March 05, 2009
KitMaker: 394 posts
Armorama: 380 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 08:46 PM UTC
thanks Nicola for the nice comments
the white chevron and stripes on the barrel were painted on, first I sprayed the white then they were masked with 1/8 inch pinstriping tape. they turned out a little thicker than i wanted.
the whole thing was painted with Tamiya acrylics which were flat to begin, so no flat coat was required. i mixed equal amounts of tamiya XF-60 and XF-73.
hopefully i will have her finished by the weekend
_Viper_
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Roma, Italy
Joined: April 15, 2010
KitMaker: 163 posts
Armorama: 86 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 09:26 PM UTC
Dylan,

just to get it straight (and also as useful insight for my own work):
you applied the Tamiya base color which was flat, then you applied a wash directly? I.e. no "glossing" of the surfaces to let the wash flow in all the recesses? So, practically you did more of a filter, yet your panel lines and various cervices look well weathered also.
In a dedicated post on painting and finishing techniques I have read that one should first gloss the surface, then apply the wash, then flatten it and, if desired, apply a filter... Am I missing something

I mainly ask because I have finished my base color and have just started glossing the model in order to get it ready for decals (which you don't need) and after another glossing, apply the wash...

Anyhow, I look forward to see her finished!

dylans
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British Columbia, Canada
Joined: March 05, 2009
KitMaker: 394 posts
Armorama: 380 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 10:32 PM UTC
If you wish to use decals then yes you have to gloss coat the model. that is why i prefer to paint the markings on, it saves a few steps. I recomend using future as a gloss and then Tamiya flat clear
the sole purpose of this build was to test wash techniques. I mixed oil paint (in this case olive green) with Mig thinner, then i spread it all over the tank . it turned out a little sloppy in some areas but most of that can be hidden with further weathering. the road wheels have been given a heavier wash than the rest of the kit.


I had not heard of the term "filter" until a few months ago, while i understand the concept I dont really get the difference between that and a wash.
A wash will always tend to alter the base colour and give visual depth to the model by filling the recesses with a darker shade of the base.
I am not saying its a bad thing I just dont see the need for an extra step.

you may want to try out some painting/weathering techniques on a cheap kit before potentially ruining something that you really want to look good.

the paint/weathering on a model is the most important part of all. a mediocre kit can look fantastic with a good paint job. but i have seen many superdetailed masterworks completely ruined by a lousy paint job.

I hope i have answered you questions adequately.

Dylan


didgeboy
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Washington, United States
Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2011 - 08:46 AM UTC
Dylan;
Looks great to me. I am building the same model right now (ESCI 1/35). I would love for you to explain step by step how you've gotten to this stage. To me the colours look really good and have great depth. I am excited to see how you weather this. Cheers.
dylans
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British Columbia, Canada
Joined: March 05, 2009
KitMaker: 394 posts
Armorama: 380 posts
Posted: Monday, March 14, 2011 - 02:59 AM UTC
its finished here
link

the paint is a 50/50 mix of these two colours




I kept the weathering light, a wash of oils (olive green) thinned with Mig thinners and a light drybrush of lightened base colour. then an overspray of "dust" which is a mix of tamiya buff armor sand and a drop of grey. i misted it lightly on the lower hull and running gear building it up until it looked good, then the rest of the tank got a light coat of dust to tone down the overall look.
D
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