Hi all.
I have just converted from using Enamels to using acrylics as a base coat.
I found I was losing to much detail and the paints tended not to do the model justice. also its really time consuming clean up, and I cant use Enamels in my airbrush setup.
I am new to airbrushing and have had a crack with a cheap 12v aircompressor (the type you plug into the cigarette lighter of your car)
I have had mixed sucesses due generally to how thin the paint I have mixed was.( I used water not IPA) It had i be really thin as I had either too much pressure (blowing hoses apart) or not enough (paint spatters, No Paint, Too much paint, no paint, No air,
My point is I have used both generic brand acrylics and tamiya ones with similar results both good and bad.
the difference in price is phenominal though.
I have had a go at brushing with cheap acrylic today and will let you all know how I got on. I just curious as to whether Im just being cheap, or whether name brand model paints make a difference.

Hi

Firstly I would suggest you invest in a better Compressor, one designed for airbrush use are not that expensive and one like this sells in the UK for under £50 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MINI-PISTON-TYPE-AIR-COMPRESSOR-AIRBRUSH-NAIL-ART-/270723129164 this provide air at a constant controled pressure, it also has auto start/stop and is a lot quieter than the one you are using now.

Now to the paints, you can use the generic acrylic paints sold in art shops and dollar stores but you will need to play with thinners to find one that works well.

The main difference between these paints and model paint is the pigment size, model paints often have a finer pigment and have additives to help them flow and stick, but if you find a brand of generics thet work then why not.

I will also have to play with mixing your own colours as the generics don't have military colours in there ranges.

Hope this was of help

Paul

Just get one bottle of Vallejo Model Air paint, should cost around 2.5-3 euro.
It's already diluted for airbrush, even though Vallejo suggests to add 1 drop of thinner for 3 drops of paint. You will see right consistency of paint and you will see if there is a difference between other acrylics.

Update to this forum.. I now have a decent home/workshop compressor with 40 L tank. What a difference its made. I also found if I thinned the generic paints enough and strained them to get all the scuddy bits that clog the airbrush out, they actually go on to the models really well. getting the bigger compressor was well worth it, thanks to my lovely wife for this awesome birthday gift.

A compressor with a storage tank is the 2nd best investment you'll make. Your air brush is your most important investment. Both are long term, so cost shouldn't be the main factor. Buy the best you can afford.

The 1st time I got back into military modeling was nearly 40 years ago. The only military paints back then were those little Testor bottles of enamel paint. I had no issues air brushing them after thinning with Model Master thinner. Honestly, I don't remember the ratio, but it worked every time. My old hobby compressor back then only had a water trap, no regulator, and ran continuously.

Now I use the same brand Paasche 1H air gun, and a Husky air compressor with tank, and pressure gauges. Paints are usually Tamiya or Model Master acrylics thinned with Tamiya X-20A. Tamiya is thinned 50/50 while MM is thinned 3/2. I shoot at 18-20 psi. The few times I need or want an enamel paint, I use Humbrol, thinned 50/50 with Mineral Spirits, and air brush at the same psi.

As for using bargain no name paints, I really think you're being foolish by trying to save a few dollars, yet spend major bucks on models and accessories looking for the most accurate and detailed model, not the cheapest one of a particular subject. It's the paint job that everyone 1st sees, not any detail or how well you built your model.

Tamiya, Model Master, and other name brand Hobby paints are already formulated to specific military colors and now some even come in sets to make color modulation that much easier, while the bargain basement paints are going to be mix and match that will be next to impossible to duplicate when needed.
Joel

Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics are certainly intended to be airbrushed so have smaller pigment grade - I can attest to having used acrylic paint not specifically intended for airbrush use and finding that the particles clogged the airbrush nozzle. I suspect you'd have to try it out to find if a particular paint does it or not, and it might vary even by colour within a range of paints.

However, the clogging was quite easily cured by, as Reuben says, straining the paint. Not sure what method he used to do this, but this is easier than it might sound. I took a herb tea bag, the type that are stapled at the top, opened it up (you can re-use the content, perhaps by making it in a tea pot - I think they even have those in NZ, though perhaps not in USA) then cut it into square pieces with scissors. Took one piece and basically put it on top of the A/B cup then pushed it in with my finger. Then poured the thinned paint in and used as normal. When done, throw away the filter the clean the A/B as normal.

You might find that your initial problems with enamels will have improved greatly with a proper compressor ... if that was the problem.
Many of the things you mention appear to be experience/knowledge issues .... but low-quality tools and paints that are not intended for airbrushing will hinder your progress as well.
If cost is an issue and enamels are easily available, give them another go. I have sprayed enamels for years, and Humbrol paints (for example) have a very fine pigment, which spray very nicely. With proper thinning, theres definitely no problem with drowning the details.
One other thing though, choice of thinner is crucial. If you notice that the pigment is clumping in the cup, the thinner is not right. I use Humbrols own thinner .... not cheap per quantity, but you know that it works and will not cause other problems.
Sometimes you just got to bite the bullet and get the correct thinner and paints .... then you can remove these factors from the equation ... and work more with thinning, pressure, etc.

I bought a large Bottle of Tamiya thinner X20 I think..might be X 21. I cant remember which one now but Def the right one for thining the enamels for tamiya. I have some Humbrol Tins and they appear to thin ok with this. As for thinning Acrylics have used Distilled water up till now but will try experimenting with IPA as it is less retarded. Next buy will be a decent name airbrush any suggestions.. leaning towards an Iwata Neo
thanks all

Old pantyhose.. works a treat for straining paint. the feet are double thickness. got a whole heap for use polishing shoes too (yes its spit shine).

I recently purchased a new double action airbrush, a badger copy, and found that it wouldn't spray cheap paints so I trotted off to the local shop to buy Tamiya acrylics which I found did spray well. I suppose I can still use the cheap paints to brush paint a diorama though so all is not lost. Like you say its an experience thing, the better your kit and the more you spend generally the better the finish