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Armor/AFV: Modern Armor
Modern armor in general.
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white washed DANA spg pics
vonHengest
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Posted: Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 12:20 PM UTC
Yeah, and I'm not a big fan of rubber tires on models either...

Look forward to seeing how the primer turns out
vonHengest
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Posted: Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 04:06 PM UTC
Brian, have you had a go with the new Vallejo "primers"? They look like they may be the right alternative to the normal primers that we are all used to.
vonHengest
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Posted: Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 06:59 PM UTC
Interesting. I have never heard of anybody having that problem with Vallejo paints, but I do understand what you are talking about as I've experienced it with other paints before. Just out of curiosity, what paints do you normally use for your general painting?
vonHengest
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Posted: Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 07:14 PM UTC
That's good info, I didn't know they could mix. I like both of those lines, but I find that I really have to thin out the Gunze paints or my airbrush starts shooting out string instead of a fine mist.
vonHengest
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Posted: Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 07:31 PM UTC
I try to keep my brush at the lowest possible pressure, I usually go with 12psi as a baseline. I have just started using Gunze paints and I didn't have any problems the first few times I used them, but after that they give me trouble off and on. Sometimes they are fine and sometimes they do unexpected things when I go to shoot.
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 07:46 PM UTC

Quoted Text

gunze sangyo mr. hobby colors (acrylic) and tamiya acrylic. They can mix too btw, and share the same thinners. Having both ranges provide a good collection of base colors.


Yes, that's it, I confirm.

Here an useful link about dilutions

http://www.little-cars.co.uk/workbench49.pdf

It's possible also mixing together Tamiya and Gs paints.
Gs pigments are usually finer than the Tamiya one, so Gs paints are a little bit more effective and nice with airbrush

Regards
vonHengest
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Posted: Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 08:07 PM UTC
Mauro: That's a great chart, thanks for the link!

Brian: I have been diluting with about 6x thinner, so I will try using 10x thinner and working down from there. I will also try using rubbing alcohol instead of the Gunze thinner and see which of the two best solves the problem. I don't think I will need to use slower drying carriers, especially with the air as humid as it is here.

Thanks for the help guys!

I hope you find this of use as well Jeff
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 08:09 PM UTC
Yes Brian, lighter colors (especially withe and yellow) are always a trouble cause they tend to not cover the surfaces.
Jeremy you're welcome
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 08:26 PM UTC

Quoted Text

yep, have to use a huge amount of flat white.
And add to that, all of their original colors have to be knocked down with couple times that of flat white (or 10 times + in some cases). It's a trick, forcing you to buy a lot more flat white, which, needless to say, comes only in tiny bottles!


Also withe and yellow enamel paints (F.E. HUMBROL) give problems.
Maybe it isn't a paint matter, perhaps is just a pigment matter

But anyway, I've noticed that they tend to have a better behaviour on an underneath light gray coat, which could be common paint or primer
heliman
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Posted: Monday, March 28, 2011 - 09:05 AM UTC
Thats great info Brian!!! I haven't tried anything other than MM , usually spray a thin coat ..misted..of flat black for my "primer". My HP-CS seems to work excellent w/ this paint, and just use it to cover the bodywork and PE. I'll check out the Gunze line..its sounds very good! I use Tamiya too, thinned w/ 90 percent alcohol, but it acts like it drys 'on the fly" comes out slightly rough.

Any tips on the white wash technique?? I was going to apply very thin coats of white, and just alow it to build up?? Thanks everyone

Jeff
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Monday, March 28, 2011 - 10:53 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Any tips on the white wash technique?? I was going to apply very thin coats of white, and just alow it to build up?? Thanks everyone

Jeff


You should take a look there

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/170715&page=1
heliman
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Posted: Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - 11:27 AM UTC
wow..thats a great link to the whitewash technique!!! My only concern is losing all the tiny PE while wiping off the layers! I thought about the hairspray, but haven't tried this out before, and a little reserved about this being a guineea pig! Hey...I have that LAV III that could be used..hmmmm.

Thanks for all the great info, I 'm just getting back into the hobby after flying rc helicopters..so it's a big learning curve!

I'm going to pick up a bottle of Tamiya thinner, read it has a retarder in it. I really like the ease cleanup of acrylics over the enamels!
heliman
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Posted: Thursday, March 31, 2011 - 10:51 AM UTC
well I've added color...and getting very excited to finish this beast!!! I used MM RAF dark green for the top coat.




I alos spent a few hours waiting for paint to dry, and realized the camo I 'm going for..its more a true camo job than a white wash!!! I'll add the white this weekend, and start adding the small parts!
Karl187
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Posted: Friday, April 01, 2011 - 12:48 AM UTC
Thats a great paint job- this is looking awesome Jeff.
heliman
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Posted: Friday, April 01, 2011 - 10:14 AM UTC
Thanks..I now can see a few spots the color didn't cover completely, but very pleased w/ the finish. I had just enough paint to finish the truck...that was a nail biter!!

Started laying out the pattern last night, I lightly freehand the camo w/ a pencil, and color in the lines ....trick I read about on here!!!
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