Greetings,

I finished my 1/48th scale Jagdpanther by Tamiya. I made the zimmerit using Squadron putty. It didn't turn out as good as I was hoping, but it was my first time making zimmerit. Yes, I didn't paint the roadwheels. I promise that on my next tank I make I will. The reason why it has so much mud is that it will eventually be going onto a really muddy diorama. I took off the numbers on one side because they didn't sit well at all due to the zimmerit. Let me know what you guys think. I know I have room for improvement. Have any tips or comments please let me know. Thanks.

-Joe



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Homemade Zim can be tough to apply, and there really aren't any tools or templates to help out us Quarter scale modelers. Keep building kits with Zim and you'll start getting it down to a science. Just make sure that you keep checking against ref photos so that you keep a feel of the spacing for the lines.

Regarding the decals, did you use a decal setting solution? And did you apply them to a glossy surface?

No, I didn't I just put them in water and slid them on which didn't work too well. I heard that putting them on and then applying a clear coat will make the decal's clear edges dissapear. Am I correct? Thanks.

-Joe

Well the first thing that you want is a really glossy surface so that the decal can really adhere to it. Non-glossy surfaces often trap in air bubles and create problems like silvering and poor adhesion. After applying the decal to a glossy surface and letting it dry you just shoot satin or matte clear over the whole thing and it should take care of most of the clear film.

The decal setting solution will help by slightly melting the decal so that it can stretch properly to settle over complex surfaces like the Zim.

Thanks for the tips. Question though. On my next model I will be using a filter. I have heard glossy isn't the best for those. So could I just do a glossy coat and then the decals and then spray a matte clear coat on or would that not work? In my mind (with how you said I should do the glossy for the decals) this is how my painting would go: primer, base coat, camoflouge, gloss coat, decals, matte coat, then the other weathering things. Would that order work? Thank you so much for the help.

Joe

Yes!! Now you're gettin' the idea down! Some people like to add their washes while the model is still glossy because they flow better, but you have to be careful if the decals are on because washes will collect around the edges of them whether or not they have carrier film around them. Personally I only really care for pin washes, which shouldn't be a problem in this case. Aside from that most of your weathering should be done as the final step. This makes the model trickier to handle when finished, but if you apply clearcoat over them then it alters their appearence and sometimes the effects seem to disappear altogether.

For painting roadwheels, I suggest buying a circle cutter. These can be found at your local arts and crafts store and save you having to buy wheel masks. Just cut the mask out of masking tape and apply to the rubber porting after you have painted it. Spray the inner road wheel and voilet you are done.