Hey all,
Just finished installing the cork for the road and siewalk in my Italy WWII dio.
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n598/raffrecon/DSC03701.jpg
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n598/raffrecon/DSC03699.jpg
Here's a pic of the ruined building that I just started.
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n598/raffrecon/DSC03703.jpg
Thanks a please let me know what you think.
Dan
Hosted by Darren Baker
1st Cork Dio
raffrecon
New York, United States
Joined: January 01, 2011
KitMaker: 266 posts
Armorama: 258 posts
Joined: January 01, 2011
KitMaker: 266 posts
Armorama: 258 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 04, 2011 - 04:54 PM UTC
Buckeye198
Ohio, United States
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 04, 2011 - 06:21 PM UTC
That's really cool! How do you go about making a cork base? I like my models to have an aura of action to them (not necessarily doing anything per se, but just having them in their own element, you know?) and it seems like this should be an easy and cheap way to really bring a model to life!
raffrecon
New York, United States
Joined: January 01, 2011
KitMaker: 266 posts
Armorama: 258 posts
Joined: January 01, 2011
KitMaker: 266 posts
Armorama: 258 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 04, 2011 - 06:57 PM UTC
Robby,
The base is pine picture frame that stained, then coated with spray can polyeurathane I then covered the finished edges with blue painter's tape.
The cork for the street is 1mm thick sheet cork. I cut it into strips, cross-cut 1cm long pieces from those and attatched them to the base with Titebond wood glue. The Titebond glue is amazing. The easiest way for me to cut it was with scissors. It ripped real easy with a scalpel blade. For the side walk, i just aded a layer of the sheet cork under the pavers to create some elevation.
The missing pavers and the small crater were create by gauging out the wood with a high spee cuttter in my Dremel Tool. In the pics above, I have started to make a space for the storm sewer drain which I am gonna scratch build from styrene. The small crater will have a busted cast iron rain pipe made from a drinking straw, styrene, and bolts from a scrap kit sticking out of it as well. .
The builing's center is foam board and the bricks are cut from 5mm cork tiles that I found in the arts & crafts section of Walmart. Again, I cut the cork into strips (with a knife this time), cross-cut those, and attached with Woodland Scenics PVA. Used strips of styrene as spacers between the rows of bricks. These will be hidden by the "grout" later. The space between the brick's left and right, I just eyeballed.
A word about cuttting cork; Have plenty of spare knive blades! I don't know why but, the stuff really dulls blades out quickly.
Dan
The base is pine picture frame that stained, then coated with spray can polyeurathane I then covered the finished edges with blue painter's tape.
The cork for the street is 1mm thick sheet cork. I cut it into strips, cross-cut 1cm long pieces from those and attatched them to the base with Titebond wood glue. The Titebond glue is amazing. The easiest way for me to cut it was with scissors. It ripped real easy with a scalpel blade. For the side walk, i just aded a layer of the sheet cork under the pavers to create some elevation.
The missing pavers and the small crater were create by gauging out the wood with a high spee cuttter in my Dremel Tool. In the pics above, I have started to make a space for the storm sewer drain which I am gonna scratch build from styrene. The small crater will have a busted cast iron rain pipe made from a drinking straw, styrene, and bolts from a scrap kit sticking out of it as well. .
The builing's center is foam board and the bricks are cut from 5mm cork tiles that I found in the arts & crafts section of Walmart. Again, I cut the cork into strips (with a knife this time), cross-cut those, and attached with Woodland Scenics PVA. Used strips of styrene as spacers between the rows of bricks. These will be hidden by the "grout" later. The space between the brick's left and right, I just eyeballed.
A word about cuttting cork; Have plenty of spare knive blades! I don't know why but, the stuff really dulls blades out quickly.
Dan
raffrecon
New York, United States
Joined: January 01, 2011
KitMaker: 266 posts
Armorama: 258 posts
Joined: January 01, 2011
KitMaker: 266 posts
Armorama: 258 posts
Posted: Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 11:10 AM UTC
i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n598/raffrecon/DSC03701.jpg[/IMG]
raffrecon
New York, United States
Joined: January 01, 2011
KitMaker: 266 posts
Armorama: 258 posts
Joined: January 01, 2011
KitMaker: 266 posts
Armorama: 258 posts
Posted: Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 11:11 AM UTC
raffrecon
New York, United States
Joined: January 01, 2011
KitMaker: 266 posts
Armorama: 258 posts
Joined: January 01, 2011
KitMaker: 266 posts
Armorama: 258 posts
Posted: Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 11:11 AM UTC
I figure out how to post the pics!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dan
Dan
Buckeye198
Ohio, United States
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 12:16 PM UTC
Haha! Glad you finally got your pictures working, and thanks for the great explanation! I think for the next armor kit I make, it'll be on a base like the one you made--thanks again!