Hi
Somewhat new to armor modeling and have done a few tanks. I'm looking at modeling the M7 Priest and doing my first diorama with it.
It looks like the Dragon kit would be the best.
Would like your input as to what you feel are the best aftermarket upgrades and also what is out there for figures. Thinking of having the diorama as if in battle and firing the 105.
Thanks for the help
Ken

Hi Ken,

I've got some good info for you at my website. This article starts off with info from Kurt Laughlin on 105mm ammo and I conclude with a review of ammo sets and a list of miscellaneous related accessories.

http://www.usarmymodels.com/ARTICLES/105mm%20Ordnance/1%20105mmOverview.html

Cheers,

Tim

Ken,
Check out AFV Club or Friulmodel for the tracks. Eduard has an Interior, Exterior, and Fender set for the aftermarket PE's.
$29.95 for the Interior set. Includes, ammo boxes, driver's panel, and other goodies.
$32.95 for the Exterior set. Includes stowage racks, .50 cal upgrade, and other goodies.
$24.95 for the Fender set. Well, the fenders and side skirts.
Griffon also has a .50 cal upgrade PE also.


See ya in the funnies..............

If I may differ with Brian: I would say NOT to buy aftermarket tracks for the DML M7 HMC. The kit supplied ones are good. Also, since you're new to armor modeling, I'd suggest that the DML kit is pretty sophisticated enough, just OOB. If you buy a pile of stuff for a first build, I bet it will be in inverse proportion to the odds of your actually completing the model.

No harm, no foul Roy.

I'm with Roy on this one.

The Dragon M7 is quite a full build in its own right, especially for someone new to armour modelling. Other than adding ammo and ammo boxes, try it as it is.

I also wouldn't touch the Friul Tracks if this is your first go with them as they are a very difficult set to put together, I know I ended up throwing mine away. The supplied DS Tracks are almost good enough, the only complaint is that once fitted they are a tad on the loose side, but this can easily be hidden in a diarama.

Hope this has been of help

Paul

Ken,

Hi - you don't mention your skill level, so it's hard to say what kinds of AM stuff you'd be comfortable with. I reviewed the DML kit here , and also started a build log here that points out construction issues.

As for AM, I'd say extra ammo and crew kit are a must - M7s were usually "rolling stockpiles" absolutely covered in supplies because of the large crew (7 men) and lack of internal stowage space. If you really want to go with photo-etch, there is also a Voyager set that I'm about to review, but it is very fiddly.

Hope this helps,

Tom

Just a point on Fruil tracks for the M4 family if I may. I see a lot of people recommend them for Shermans which is one of the vehicles they are patently unsuited to.
Fruil trqcks being white metal drape well which is fine for Soviet, British and German stuff that used "dead" track. The M4 used "Live" track which didn't sag like the German and Russian stuff as it had internal rubber bushes and was kept taught. Look at a photo of a Lee, Sturat, Sherman or Pershing and you will not see sag unless the vehicle is in a very poor state of repair or battle daaged. It is near impossible to get the sag out of Fruil M4 tracks without placed extreme strain on the rear idler.

They are great for broken track dios as is AFV club (T48 and T51) and Panda/RHPS (T41,48,49,51,54,62). The DML DS track for the M4 Series is great but you usually have to shorten it by one or two links.
Cheers
Al
Just my two cents on the subject.

As for ammo cases: Besides those reviewed in the link above there is also a set of ammo and boxes from AFV-Club as reviewed on this site. They have the benefit of being "plastic" rather then resin.

Hi
Thanks for the replys. They will help greatly.
As for my building level thats a hard one. When I look at the the models on this sight I would have to say from one to ten about a five. I have used afv tracks and found them difficult to work with. They look great when done but hard to keep together as you put them on. I have used some photo etched parts and like them. I know that I have to gained some experience when it comes to shaping some of the parts.
All in all I enjoy building the armor models the most.
Again thanks for the help and I am sure I'll be back asking more questions.
Ken

Ken,

If you're talking about AFV Club indy links, here's a helpful hint: apply a bit of white glue to the end pins before you slip the end connectors on. The glue helps hold the track in place but remains flexible enough to work around the suspension when you put the tracks on.

Tim

Oooo! That's a good suggestion, I hadn't thought of that, but it does seem a natural.

Thanks!

I've said it before and I'll say it again, use a small dab of MicroScale Liqui-tape on the ends of the pins. Takes the white glue approach one step further because by it's nature it stays tacky and remains flexible. Works great for AFV Club and Panda links.

Jim