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Armor/AFV: Allied - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Allied forces during World War II.
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Verlinden way of painting shermans, how?
musicwerks
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 09, 2005
KitMaker: 375 posts
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Posted: Monday, July 25, 2011 - 02:09 AM UTC
Dear friends,

I am having great difficulty getting shermans painted. I always get my shermans painted very dark not hence not pleasing to me even it may be accurate.

I have seen verlinden painting shermans which i think look good. they are darkish grey with a greenish tinge. How is done? I believe it's a dry brushing technique (?)

Pls advise

Kiong
Spiderfrommars
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Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
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Posted: Monday, July 25, 2011 - 02:50 AM UTC
Rather than an Aitrbrush technique, it could be a green filter do on a gray base

Just my opinion anyway
GeraldOwens
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Florida, United States
Joined: March 30, 2006
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Posted: Monday, July 25, 2011 - 12:34 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Dear friends,

I am having great difficulty getting shermans painted. I always get my shermans painted very dark not hence not pleasing to me even it may be accurate.

I have seen verlinden painting shermans which i think look good. they are darkish grey with a greenish tinge. How is done? I believe it's a dry brushing technique (?)

Pls advise

Kiong

Verlinden's heydey was the 1980's, and the technique he favored was dry brushing, with limited use of washes. He would start with any dark green color, on the theory that he was going to weather so heavily that the original shade wouldn't matter. He would use a variety of earth tones to dry brush, concentrating on the lower parts of the chassis. Dry brushing is an effective technique, though it is out of fashion these days. He wrote a number of books, called "The Verlinden Way," which are still available from online sources, if you'd like to give his methods a try.
If your own colors are too dark, you should cut the Olive Drab with a bit of German Dark Yellow (up to 20%, for the Tamiya OD), to allow for scale effect and a bit of fading. Earth tone washes or airbrushed glazes (filters) to simulate accumulated dirt may be more effective than dark washes.
JDBart
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Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: July 01, 2011
KitMaker: 29 posts
Armorama: 29 posts
Posted: Monday, July 25, 2011 - 04:41 PM UTC
funny you say this, my next Sherman was going to try giving it a light brown base coat and dry brush olive drab to give it a light green and very dusted look.

Love experimenting and have also found with Shermans when you use a lot of washes and weathering that any old green will do (pretty much) as a base coat!!

ALBOWIE
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New South Wales, Australia
Joined: February 28, 2006
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Posted: Monday, July 25, 2011 - 05:22 PM UTC
I would recommend finding a copy of the Osprey titles:Modelling US Army Sherman Tanks (vol 1 or 2)
http://www.ospreypublishing.com/store/Modelling-the-US-Army-M4-%2875mm%29-Sherman-Medium-Tank_9781841769653
http://www.ospreypublishing.com/store/Modelling-the-US-Army-M4-%2876mm%29-Sherman-Medium-Tank_9781846031205
or Modelling US Armor of WW2
http://www.ospreypublishing.com/store/Modeling-US-Armor-of-World-War-2_9781846033988
by Steve Zaloga where he has a great section on painting OD vehicles. His Shermans and OD finishes are the best I have seen.
Cheers
Al
jon_a_its
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England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: April 29, 2004
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Posted: Monday, July 25, 2011 - 11:18 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I would recommend finding a copy of the Osprey titles:Modelling US Army Sherman Tanks (vol 1 or 2)
http://www.ospreypublishing.com/store/Modelling-the-US-Army-M4-%2875mm%29-Sherman-Medium-Tank_9781841769653
http://www.ospreypublishing.com/store/Modelling-the-US-Army-M4-%2876mm%29-Sherman-Medium-Tank_9781846031205
or Modelling US Armor of WW2
http://www.ospreypublishing.com/store/Modeling-US-Armor-of-World-War-2_9781846033988
by Steve Zaloga where he has a great section on painting OD vehicles. His Shermans and OD finishes are the best I have seen.
Cheers
Al


ditto ditto ditto

Inspirinational all 3!
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, July 26, 2011 - 02:29 AM UTC
I completely agree about Steve Zaloga's modeling. Just about all of his builds are displayed in a simple, yet very effective vignette, which I feel really helps blend in the coloring of the his armor models.

I've been using Model Master Acrylic paints. I prime everything Tamiya lacquer grey primer. I use MM Olive Drab #4728 for my base coat. I have another bottle of 4728 that I've lightened up with yellow. I airbrush all surfaces that would be bleached by the elements with a few light coats. The overall effect looks very convincing to me.

As others have said, with the addition of all the washes, filters, and dry brushing I apply, the original colors change so much that it's hardly noticeable.
Kharkov
Joined: April 09, 2011
KitMaker: 181 posts
Armorama: 175 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 26, 2011 - 04:21 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Dear friends,

I am having great difficulty getting shermans painted. I always get my shermans painted very dark not hence not pleasing to me even it may be accurate.

I have seen verlinden painting shermans which i think look good. they are darkish grey with a greenish tinge. How is done? I believe it's a dry brushing technique (?)

Pls advise

Kiong

Verlinden's heydey was the 1980's, and the technique he favored was dry brushing, with limited use of washes. He would start with any dark green color, on the theory that he was going to weather so heavily that the original shade wouldn't matter. He would use a variety of earth tones to dry brush, concentrating on the lower parts of the chassis. Dry brushing is an effective technique, though it is out of fashion these days. He wrote a number of books, called "The Verlinden Way," which are still available from online sources, if you'd like to give his methods a try.
If your own colors are too dark, you should cut the Olive Drab with a bit of German Dark Yellow (up to 20%, for the Tamiya OD), to allow for scale effect and a bit of fading. Earth tone washes or airbrushed glazes (filters) to simulate accumulated dirt may be more effective than dark washes.


Good old Dry Brushing, very out of fashion now, because there is no money in it.

Keep a set of old (older) brushes just for dry brushing, buy a range of artists oils or use enamels, load your brush up, take it all off again and dry brush away to your hearts content, see, there's no Big sell in that, it's all good old free finishing.

Never use pure white, makes the finish look to "stark", (unless your doing a winter camo scheme), and be very carefull on anything painted black or dark gray, its very easy to end up with it looking to "stark" again, to much contrast.

Forget about your base colour, it's just a starting point, work out where you wanna start, probably dark, best to work from dark to light with heavy dry brushing, and go from there.

And if anyone tells you your base colour is wrong, simply tell them to shut up and go away
musicwerks
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 09, 2005
KitMaker: 375 posts
Armorama: 335 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 27, 2011 - 12:36 AM UTC
Dear guys,

Thanks for your inputs!

I am so inspired by the "legacies" from the "super dioramas" book featuring Patton on armor car leading shermans...20yrs ago but still definitive!

Will try the dry brush method on my vintage italeri Sherman soon!

Cheers
Kiong
Quoted Text

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retiredyank
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Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Wednesday, July 27, 2011 - 01:31 AM UTC
Alternatively, you could use MM Faded OD or MM OD ANA(a little bit darker than MMOD). I would recomend MM Faded OD for the finish you are trying to accomplish. It has a chalky look to it.
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