I HAVE a rendezvous with Death
At some disputed barricade,
When Spring comes back with rustling shade
And apple-blossoms fill the air—
I have a rendezvous with Death
When Spring brings back blue days and fair.
It may be he shall take my hand
And lead me into his dark land
And close my eyes and quench my breath—
It may be I shall pass him still.
I have a rendezvous with Death
On some scarred slope of battered hill,
When Spring comes round again this year
And the first meadow-flowers appear.
God knows 'twere better to be deep
Pillowed in silk and scented down,
Where love throbs out in blissful sleep,
Pulse nigh to pulse, and breath to breath,
Where hushed awakenings are dear...
But I've a rendezvous with Death
At midnight in some flaming town,
When Spring trips north again this year,
And I to my pledged word am true,
I shall not fail that rendezvous.
By Alan Seeger, 1888-1916.
Figures
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
A Rendezvous With Death
Posted: Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 04:44 AM UTC
Posted: Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 04:56 AM UTC
So, welcome to the build log. Thanks for taking the time to have a look.
As you may have already guessed the title for this is going to be 'A Rendezvous with Death' and the main components of the diorama are going to be the Kubelwagen wedgie base from Darius Miniatures and two Late War SS Figures from Alpine.
I am also planning to add a third figure, a body to be more precise. I'll let the pictures explain the composition first:
At the moment this particular aspect of the dio is not yet set in stone. I'm currently just beginning to sculpt some details of this dead body, which will, if all goes well, be floating in the water beside the Kubelwagen, his webbing caught around the number-plate frame.
I've only ever 'sculpted' one figure before. I use inverted comas because several parts were borrowed from a Dragon Gen2 figure set- these helped keep me working in scale- for instance it was easier to sculpt the legs if they had boots on them. In the past I've usually kept sculpting to various smaller details and for repair and re-shaping, so this will be a challenge. I am also going to attempt to impart wounds on the body and I have already made a start on this.
The two Alpine figures:
As you can probably see with these two, I have kept changes to a minimum, adding only a masking tape sling to the MP-44.
The composition of the scene will hopefully go as I have laid it out here although I haven't yet decided on adding any kind of debris or abandoned pieces of equipment.
A word on the setting- Geographically speaking the scene will be somewhere along the Hohenzollern Canal, East of Eberswalde somewhere between February and April 1945.
Well, I have some in progress shots to post later but for now I'll finish by saying that comments etc are always welcome and thanks for reading.
-Karl187-
As you may have already guessed the title for this is going to be 'A Rendezvous with Death' and the main components of the diorama are going to be the Kubelwagen wedgie base from Darius Miniatures and two Late War SS Figures from Alpine.
I am also planning to add a third figure, a body to be more precise. I'll let the pictures explain the composition first:
At the moment this particular aspect of the dio is not yet set in stone. I'm currently just beginning to sculpt some details of this dead body, which will, if all goes well, be floating in the water beside the Kubelwagen, his webbing caught around the number-plate frame.
I've only ever 'sculpted' one figure before. I use inverted comas because several parts were borrowed from a Dragon Gen2 figure set- these helped keep me working in scale- for instance it was easier to sculpt the legs if they had boots on them. In the past I've usually kept sculpting to various smaller details and for repair and re-shaping, so this will be a challenge. I am also going to attempt to impart wounds on the body and I have already made a start on this.
The two Alpine figures:
As you can probably see with these two, I have kept changes to a minimum, adding only a masking tape sling to the MP-44.
The composition of the scene will hopefully go as I have laid it out here although I haven't yet decided on adding any kind of debris or abandoned pieces of equipment.
A word on the setting- Geographically speaking the scene will be somewhere along the Hohenzollern Canal, East of Eberswalde somewhere between February and April 1945.
Well, I have some in progress shots to post later but for now I'll finish by saying that comments etc are always welcome and thanks for reading.
-Karl187-
Hisham
Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Armorama: 6,363 posts
Joined: July 23, 2004
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Armorama: 6,363 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 06:10 AM UTC
Looks good, Karl.. I like the way you're using this wedgie.. but I was thinking.. maybe while the soldier in the front is walking on.. the soldier in the back could be standing there and taking a look down at the body in the water and thinking.. the same fate awaits us? Just a thought when I first looked at it.
I'll be following this with interest!
Hisham
I'll be following this with interest!
Hisham
Posted: Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 12:38 AM UTC
Hey Hisham, thanks for stopping by.
Its funny you should mention about the guy looking down- this is what I was thinking the other day when I was painting that figure. The problem is that I had already built up the Alpine figures before I decided to try and add the body in the water. I'm not sure my sculpting skills will do any justice to the figure in the water, it could turn out a real mess and in that case I doubt I'd still include it so I suppose having him not looking down would be a good thing in that case. Its just one of those modelling dilemma's I suppose!
Its funny you should mention about the guy looking down- this is what I was thinking the other day when I was painting that figure. The problem is that I had already built up the Alpine figures before I decided to try and add the body in the water. I'm not sure my sculpting skills will do any justice to the figure in the water, it could turn out a real mess and in that case I doubt I'd still include it so I suppose having him not looking down would be a good thing in that case. Its just one of those modelling dilemma's I suppose!
Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
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Joined: July 13, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 03:43 AM UTC
Hi Karl
It looks very good so far. I think Hisham's idea is clever indeed, but i understand your doubts (although I believe that actually you are skilled enough to render the sunk figure in a good way)
I think those treads could help you
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/156815&ord=&page=1
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/164712&ord=&page=1
http://www.cdiorama.com/
If I were you I'd write the poem on the dio pedestal. That would comtribute to tell the story and to transmit the dramatic sense of the scene
To be honest the only thing which doesn't persuade me is that you're using SS figures, and I can't have mercy or compassion on them. If you used Wermarcht soldiers I'd be able to do it.
But anyway that's just my opinion, I think this work will turn out very well
Cheers and many thanks for sharing
It looks very good so far. I think Hisham's idea is clever indeed, but i understand your doubts (although I believe that actually you are skilled enough to render the sunk figure in a good way)
I think those treads could help you
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/156815&ord=&page=1
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/164712&ord=&page=1
http://www.cdiorama.com/
If I were you I'd write the poem on the dio pedestal. That would comtribute to tell the story and to transmit the dramatic sense of the scene
To be honest the only thing which doesn't persuade me is that you're using SS figures, and I can't have mercy or compassion on them. If you used Wermarcht soldiers I'd be able to do it.
But anyway that's just my opinion, I think this work will turn out very well
Cheers and many thanks for sharing
Posted: Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 06:30 AM UTC
Mauro, welcome along mate!
I must tell you that Nicolas' two dioramas, 'Rolling Thunder' and 'Yamamoto' were somewhat of an inspiration for this project. I liked the compact layout and the detail of his work and thats kind of what made me want to try and do something like this in a relatively small dio.
As for the poem being written on the pedestal- you just read my mind!! I've been intending to do that since I started planning this- the black back and sides of the wedgie base are pretty perfect to have the lines of the poem written/painted on.
As for haing sympathy for the SS figures- well thats something I'll leave up to the individual. My goal is not to create any sympathy for them, like you I don't believe they deserve it but I'd like people just to have a look at the scene and think of the horrors of Spring 1945 in Eastern Germany- to envision these two soldiers, knowing their past actions are being uncovered with the march of the allies, but yet still picking up their guns and going out to meet their certain death. Why? Whats going through their minds? Are they at peace or tortured by their past? These are the questions I humbly hope that will be asked when one looks at this vignette.
As for progress: I've got the basecoats on the base apart from the Kubelwagen and the mud/water its sitting in- I'm experimenting with some Vallejo Still Water and I don't want to do anything to the actual base before I know what it will look like. I've done some more work on the dead soldier, mostly making sure he'll sit right and I'm finishing off the base coats on the figures. I'm going to be using Oak Leaf and Dot Pea patterns and I'll be doing a step by step on this.
Thanks for reading/viewing!
-Karl187-
I must tell you that Nicolas' two dioramas, 'Rolling Thunder' and 'Yamamoto' were somewhat of an inspiration for this project. I liked the compact layout and the detail of his work and thats kind of what made me want to try and do something like this in a relatively small dio.
As for the poem being written on the pedestal- you just read my mind!! I've been intending to do that since I started planning this- the black back and sides of the wedgie base are pretty perfect to have the lines of the poem written/painted on.
As for haing sympathy for the SS figures- well thats something I'll leave up to the individual. My goal is not to create any sympathy for them, like you I don't believe they deserve it but I'd like people just to have a look at the scene and think of the horrors of Spring 1945 in Eastern Germany- to envision these two soldiers, knowing their past actions are being uncovered with the march of the allies, but yet still picking up their guns and going out to meet their certain death. Why? Whats going through their minds? Are they at peace or tortured by their past? These are the questions I humbly hope that will be asked when one looks at this vignette.
As for progress: I've got the basecoats on the base apart from the Kubelwagen and the mud/water its sitting in- I'm experimenting with some Vallejo Still Water and I don't want to do anything to the actual base before I know what it will look like. I've done some more work on the dead soldier, mostly making sure he'll sit right and I'm finishing off the base coats on the figures. I'm going to be using Oak Leaf and Dot Pea patterns and I'll be doing a step by step on this.
Thanks for reading/viewing!
-Karl187-
Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Joined: July 13, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 07:08 AM UTC
Quoted Text
As for haing sympathy for the SS figures- well thats something I'll leave up to the individual. My goal is not to create any sympathy for them, like you I don't believe they deserve it but I'd like people just to have a look at the scene and think of the horrors of Spring 1945 in Eastern Germany- to envision these two soldiers, knowing their past actions are being uncovered with the march of the allies, but yet still picking up their guns and going out to meet their certain death. Why? Whats going through their minds? Are they at peace or tortured by their past? These are the questions I humbly hope that will be asked when one looks at this vignette.
Yes, I've understood Karl and I think that is an incredibly good idea. Some of us sometime seem to forget that ww2 (and wars in general) was a great tragedy. A job like yours can help to think about that, so I'll follow your tread whit a lot of interest indeed
Now I can't wait to see your next step
Cheers and many thanks again
Ps
I've read the poem traslated in Italian language. Is incredibly touching. I havent known Seerger yet. Thanks a million Karl for letting me know him and is poems
Posted: Thursday, September 01, 2011 - 06:16 AM UTC
Mauro- I'm glad I could introduce you to Mr. Seeger. It was a trailer from a videogame that used parts of the poem that got me interested in his work. A lot of it is online because publishing rights on it have expired- you can download most of his work and his diary- he produced some truly amazing work.
So, update time!
I've got the base paints on most of the wedgie. The river/canal bed is still not painted (experiments to do with water are still ongoing) and neither is the Kubelwagen. Until I'm satisfied with my water experiments I'll be leaving this two bits.
The bricks are Andrea Reddish Brown, the stones are London Grey, (paints are Vallejo unless otherwise stated),the culvert stones are Andrea Slate Grey, the cobbles are Black Grey and the bollard and railing is Flat Black. These paints will provide good keys from which to add other colors, tones, weathering etc as the project continues.
The soldiers body has also been worked on a bit, sanding the detail from a torso and legs taken from some Dragon sets. A hole was covered up with putty and I've added some wounds.
At the moment I'm working on his webbing kit which is etch from Aber. Its finely detailed stuff but infuriatingly small and fiddly- a ruler in mm and cm for comparison:
The web gear will be caught around the Kubelwagen numberplate and it will be pulling on him in a certain fashion- this needs to be fully worked out before I start sculpting as the folds of his clothing will correspond to the way he is caught by his webbing.
I also did the inside detail on a discarded helmet:, again with a set from Aber:
I have the base paints sorted on the figures and I'll post some detailed pictures and a color guide tomorrow.
Thanks for reading and viewing!
-Karl187-
So, update time!
I've got the base paints on most of the wedgie. The river/canal bed is still not painted (experiments to do with water are still ongoing) and neither is the Kubelwagen. Until I'm satisfied with my water experiments I'll be leaving this two bits.
The bricks are Andrea Reddish Brown, the stones are London Grey, (paints are Vallejo unless otherwise stated),the culvert stones are Andrea Slate Grey, the cobbles are Black Grey and the bollard and railing is Flat Black. These paints will provide good keys from which to add other colors, tones, weathering etc as the project continues.
The soldiers body has also been worked on a bit, sanding the detail from a torso and legs taken from some Dragon sets. A hole was covered up with putty and I've added some wounds.
At the moment I'm working on his webbing kit which is etch from Aber. Its finely detailed stuff but infuriatingly small and fiddly- a ruler in mm and cm for comparison:
The web gear will be caught around the Kubelwagen numberplate and it will be pulling on him in a certain fashion- this needs to be fully worked out before I start sculpting as the folds of his clothing will correspond to the way he is caught by his webbing.
I also did the inside detail on a discarded helmet:, again with a set from Aber:
I have the base paints sorted on the figures and I'll post some detailed pictures and a color guide tomorrow.
Thanks for reading and viewing!
-Karl187-
Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Joined: July 13, 2010
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Posted: Thursday, September 01, 2011 - 06:42 AM UTC
Very good progress here
Soldier wounds looks very good indeed and i like a lot the helmet details
Only doubt which I have is that died soldier maybe would have semi open mouth, but anyway is just my opinion
cheers and congrats mate!
Soldier wounds looks very good indeed and i like a lot the helmet details
Only doubt which I have is that died soldier maybe would have semi open mouth, but anyway is just my opinion
cheers and congrats mate!
Posted: Friday, September 02, 2011 - 12:47 AM UTC
Thanks Mauro- I might try and modify his mouth a little, will have to see.
So, here's the first figure:
Primed with Black Grey, painted on:
Base colors:
So, bare in mind this figure is far from completion, these are the main base colors. (Paints are Vallejo unless otherwise stated.)
Winter Jacket- Andrea Field Grey
Fur in Jacket Hood- Chocolate Brown
Helmet- German Fieldgrey WWII
Face- Andrea Flesh Painting Set Base Color 1
Helmet Strap- Andrea Dark Brown Leather
Webbing Straps (these are canvas khaki straps issued in the later months of the war and are the same pattern as those used by the DAK)- Khaki
STG-44 Mag Pouches- German Field Grey with Flat Black straps
Trousers- German Camouflage Medium Brown
Belt- Flat Black
Gaiters- London Grey with Andrea Dark Brown Leather straps
Boots- Black Grey
Bayonet- Andrea Gunmetal for lower sheath and bottom of handle, Andrea Dark Brown Leather for upper handle, Black for leather parts of sheath
I will be using the Dot Pea Pattern camouflage scheme for the trousers on this figure. I use the Andrea Panzer Aces German Camouflage set which provides paints and instructions for both Oakleaf patterns, the Italian pattern and the Dot Pea pattern. German Camouflage Medium Brown is the first color in the Dot Pea pattern.
The other figure is done and I'll have photos up later today hopefully.
Thanks for reading and viewing.
-Karl187-
So, here's the first figure:
Primed with Black Grey, painted on:
Base colors:
So, bare in mind this figure is far from completion, these are the main base colors. (Paints are Vallejo unless otherwise stated.)
Winter Jacket- Andrea Field Grey
Fur in Jacket Hood- Chocolate Brown
Helmet- German Fieldgrey WWII
Face- Andrea Flesh Painting Set Base Color 1
Helmet Strap- Andrea Dark Brown Leather
Webbing Straps (these are canvas khaki straps issued in the later months of the war and are the same pattern as those used by the DAK)- Khaki
STG-44 Mag Pouches- German Field Grey with Flat Black straps
Trousers- German Camouflage Medium Brown
Belt- Flat Black
Gaiters- London Grey with Andrea Dark Brown Leather straps
Boots- Black Grey
Bayonet- Andrea Gunmetal for lower sheath and bottom of handle, Andrea Dark Brown Leather for upper handle, Black for leather parts of sheath
I will be using the Dot Pea Pattern camouflage scheme for the trousers on this figure. I use the Andrea Panzer Aces German Camouflage set which provides paints and instructions for both Oakleaf patterns, the Italian pattern and the Dot Pea pattern. German Camouflage Medium Brown is the first color in the Dot Pea pattern.
The other figure is done and I'll have photos up later today hopefully.
Thanks for reading and viewing.
-Karl187-
Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Joined: July 13, 2010
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Posted: Friday, September 02, 2011 - 03:11 AM UTC
Really awesome Karl. Your figures look incredibly real
Posted: Friday, September 02, 2011 - 06:21 AM UTC
Ok, so the next figure:
Again, he was primed with Vallejo Black Grey painted on.
Helmet Cover & Jacket- Beige Brown
Trousers- German Camouflage Medium Brown
Webbing- Flat Black
Coat Inside (jacket is reversible)- Off White
Kar98K Sling- Saddle Brown
Uniform (just the collar shows)- German Fieldgrey WWII
Grenade- Black Grey for explosive head, New Wood for the stem and Gun Metal for the end cap
Gloves- Andrea Slate Grey
Boots- Black Grey
Bread Bag- Old Wood
Water Bottle- Black Grey for cup, Flat Black strap, New Wood for cover.
The trousers of this figure will be painted in the Dot Pea pattern while the helmet cover and jacket will be Oak Leaf (Spring).
More to come soon, thanks for reading/viewing!
-Karl187-
Again, he was primed with Vallejo Black Grey painted on.
Helmet Cover & Jacket- Beige Brown
Trousers- German Camouflage Medium Brown
Webbing- Flat Black
Coat Inside (jacket is reversible)- Off White
Kar98K Sling- Saddle Brown
Uniform (just the collar shows)- German Fieldgrey WWII
Grenade- Black Grey for explosive head, New Wood for the stem and Gun Metal for the end cap
Gloves- Andrea Slate Grey
Boots- Black Grey
Bread Bag- Old Wood
Water Bottle- Black Grey for cup, Flat Black strap, New Wood for cover.
The trousers of this figure will be painted in the Dot Pea pattern while the helmet cover and jacket will be Oak Leaf (Spring).
More to come soon, thanks for reading/viewing!
-Karl187-
Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
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Posted: Friday, September 02, 2011 - 10:10 AM UTC
Why don't you write a tutorial about your figure painting method?
It would be incredibly interesting and usefull
It would be incredibly interesting and usefull
Posted: Sunday, September 04, 2011 - 06:09 AM UTC
Hey Mauro- I might do a tutorial at some point- not a bad idea!
Anyway, some more updates.
I've started the Dot Pea pattern camouflage on the trousers of both figures. This is one of the more tricky SS patterns. Unlike the name suggests its not just a simple 'dot' pattern. There are bodies or islands of color as well over which different color dots go. For example:
I find Calvin Tan's Osprey book 'Modelling Waffen SS Figures' to be extremely helpful when painting SS camouflage patterns. For a start there are several camouflage color plates in the book which saves looking for and printing out reference photos. Its a book I would very much recommend if you are considering trying some of these patterns.
Anyway, as I said earlier I use Vallejo Panzer Aces Camouflage colors for these SS Patterns. The first color, the base, is already on. The next is to paint in small islands of dark green and for this I used German Camouflage Dark Green.
The next stage is more islands and for this I used Flat Flesh:
Now its time for the dots and I'll be doing those and posting my progress over the next few days.
In other areas:
This is going to be a discarded helmet and the base color is Andrea Field Grey and Black Grey mixed 1:1. This was then sealed with Future before helmet decals were added from the Aber set marking out the helmet as Wehrmacht issue. Future sealed that before I applied some Hairspray and then Off-White before using water to chip the white back.
This is the Aber German Webbing gear pretty much fully assembled. Its not time to add the various bits and pieces of equipment to it. I'll be adding some Gewehr-43 mag pouches and various other bits and bobs from Dragon's Gen2 range. This will then be used on the fallen soldier. Sculpting is ongoing with that, but due to the slow dry time it can take a while.
And finally the discarded G-43 with an open bolt and strap made from Tamiya masking tape and PE buckles from Aber.
More to come soon.
Thanks for reading/viewing!
-Karl187-
Anyway, some more updates.
I've started the Dot Pea pattern camouflage on the trousers of both figures. This is one of the more tricky SS patterns. Unlike the name suggests its not just a simple 'dot' pattern. There are bodies or islands of color as well over which different color dots go. For example:
I find Calvin Tan's Osprey book 'Modelling Waffen SS Figures' to be extremely helpful when painting SS camouflage patterns. For a start there are several camouflage color plates in the book which saves looking for and printing out reference photos. Its a book I would very much recommend if you are considering trying some of these patterns.
Anyway, as I said earlier I use Vallejo Panzer Aces Camouflage colors for these SS Patterns. The first color, the base, is already on. The next is to paint in small islands of dark green and for this I used German Camouflage Dark Green.
The next stage is more islands and for this I used Flat Flesh:
Now its time for the dots and I'll be doing those and posting my progress over the next few days.
In other areas:
This is going to be a discarded helmet and the base color is Andrea Field Grey and Black Grey mixed 1:1. This was then sealed with Future before helmet decals were added from the Aber set marking out the helmet as Wehrmacht issue. Future sealed that before I applied some Hairspray and then Off-White before using water to chip the white back.
This is the Aber German Webbing gear pretty much fully assembled. Its not time to add the various bits and pieces of equipment to it. I'll be adding some Gewehr-43 mag pouches and various other bits and bobs from Dragon's Gen2 range. This will then be used on the fallen soldier. Sculpting is ongoing with that, but due to the slow dry time it can take a while.
And finally the discarded G-43 with an open bolt and strap made from Tamiya masking tape and PE buckles from Aber.
More to come soon.
Thanks for reading/viewing!
-Karl187-
Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 04, 2011 - 09:08 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hey Mauro- I might do a tutorial at some point- not a bad idea!
I think it would be incredibly usefull Karl
In my opinion many modellers (included me) are maybe good at painting tanks, but have to improve a lot their figures
Anyway, it's been getting incredibly good, I can't wait to see the final result....
cheers
AgentG
Nevada, United States
Joined: December 21, 2008
KitMaker: 1,109 posts
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Posted: Monday, September 05, 2011 - 06:37 AM UTC
I like the look of this.
Jumping the gun a bit, how will you shade the uniforms after the camo is applied? I've never done that to entire uniforms, just helmets and small items.
G
Jumping the gun a bit, how will you shade the uniforms after the camo is applied? I've never done that to entire uniforms, just helmets and small items.
G
Posted: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 - 06:19 AM UTC
Mauro- cheers mate!
Wayne- thanks for having a look and taking the time to comment. As for your question- that 's a tricky one!! This is easily the most difficult German scheme to weather, in my humble opinion anyway! The reason for this is the fact there are tiny dots of paint everywhere. The other German schemes are more 'blocky'- in that there are relatively intact and fairly large bodies of single colors of paint that you can shadow and highlight by using the base color of these bodies and suitable shadow and highlight colors.
The Dot Pea pattern you can't really do this on because it would require going back over each individual dot and since they are so small and random this is pretty much impossible. So whats called for here is a little bit of restraint in weathering. In Calvin Tan's book that I mentioned in another post, he uses ink to shade and then a yellow color glazed over the high points for highlights.
Personally I've never used ink, I prefer oils or enamels for a shading task like this but as I said, it has to be restrained otherwise all the detail will be lost in the color of the wash. The good thing about oils and/or enamels is that you can remove them with white spirit if you've got too much on a particular area. For the shading here (I will be showing this in another step) I will likely use enamel, a brown color very heavily thinned- to filter like consistency and applied sparingly so I can get a feel for things as I apply it.
For the highlights I'm going to use the glaze method, as Calvin Tan does. Esentially a glaze is a thin covering of acrylic- glaze refers to a medium and you can use water or Vallejo Glaze Medium. I prefer the Glaze Medium for figures because it thins the paint radically but doesn't leave the same water-marks that water sometimes leaves. I will cover this in a further step aswell.
I hope this goes some way to answering your query Wayne.
Wayne- thanks for having a look and taking the time to comment. As for your question- that 's a tricky one!! This is easily the most difficult German scheme to weather, in my humble opinion anyway! The reason for this is the fact there are tiny dots of paint everywhere. The other German schemes are more 'blocky'- in that there are relatively intact and fairly large bodies of single colors of paint that you can shadow and highlight by using the base color of these bodies and suitable shadow and highlight colors.
The Dot Pea pattern you can't really do this on because it would require going back over each individual dot and since they are so small and random this is pretty much impossible. So whats called for here is a little bit of restraint in weathering. In Calvin Tan's book that I mentioned in another post, he uses ink to shade and then a yellow color glazed over the high points for highlights.
Personally I've never used ink, I prefer oils or enamels for a shading task like this but as I said, it has to be restrained otherwise all the detail will be lost in the color of the wash. The good thing about oils and/or enamels is that you can remove them with white spirit if you've got too much on a particular area. For the shading here (I will be showing this in another step) I will likely use enamel, a brown color very heavily thinned- to filter like consistency and applied sparingly so I can get a feel for things as I apply it.
For the highlights I'm going to use the glaze method, as Calvin Tan does. Esentially a glaze is a thin covering of acrylic- glaze refers to a medium and you can use water or Vallejo Glaze Medium. I prefer the Glaze Medium for figures because it thins the paint radically but doesn't leave the same water-marks that water sometimes leaves. I will cover this in a further step aswell.
I hope this goes some way to answering your query Wayne.
Posted: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 - 06:30 AM UTC
So, on to the next step.
I had already applied the larger islands or bodies of color present in the Dot Pea pattern. After that comes a little bit of shading and highlighting of these islands using the base color mixed with darker colorsfor the shadow and lighter colors for the highlight. I only do this a slight bit and to be honest, once the Pea's are done its not all that visible.
So the Peas, I use a 10/0 brush for these to give me a good deal of control over the size of the peas. The first color I used was Flat Flesh and the peas of this color are painted everywhere except the bodies of Flat Flesh already painted. Don't go overboard here though- remember to leave sufficient room for three more colors of peas.
Next up was the German Camouflage Medium Brown (the base coat of the camouflage)- this was applied to the Flat Flesh and Camouflage Dark Green bodies of color.
Camouflage Dark Green peas were applied to all the areas except the islands of this color. Still remember not to go overboard as there is still one more color. You don't want your peas so clumped together that the base color or islands are obscured or destroyed.
Finally peas of the lightest green color (Uniform Green in this case) are applied.
The best advice I can give for applying the peas is to go slow, one area at a time. For the two figures trousers I went for one leg at a time to allow me to make sure things looked right. You don't need to be too mercenary about the 'areas' though, if some peas make it past the half way point of a trouser, so what? You'll be painting that bit next anyway. Essentially what I'm saying is go slow and make sure you have some references to hand, I find this helps when applying fiddly schemes like this.
I've also done some work on the Kubelwagen, namely give it a base coat of German Yellow (a mix of Tamiya Dark Yellow and Buff).
I will be doing the Color Modulation technique for this vehicle and perhaps will apply some field camouflage.
Thanks for viewing/reading.
-Karl187-
I had already applied the larger islands or bodies of color present in the Dot Pea pattern. After that comes a little bit of shading and highlighting of these islands using the base color mixed with darker colorsfor the shadow and lighter colors for the highlight. I only do this a slight bit and to be honest, once the Pea's are done its not all that visible.
So the Peas, I use a 10/0 brush for these to give me a good deal of control over the size of the peas. The first color I used was Flat Flesh and the peas of this color are painted everywhere except the bodies of Flat Flesh already painted. Don't go overboard here though- remember to leave sufficient room for three more colors of peas.
Next up was the German Camouflage Medium Brown (the base coat of the camouflage)- this was applied to the Flat Flesh and Camouflage Dark Green bodies of color.
Camouflage Dark Green peas were applied to all the areas except the islands of this color. Still remember not to go overboard as there is still one more color. You don't want your peas so clumped together that the base color or islands are obscured or destroyed.
Finally peas of the lightest green color (Uniform Green in this case) are applied.
The best advice I can give for applying the peas is to go slow, one area at a time. For the two figures trousers I went for one leg at a time to allow me to make sure things looked right. You don't need to be too mercenary about the 'areas' though, if some peas make it past the half way point of a trouser, so what? You'll be painting that bit next anyway. Essentially what I'm saying is go slow and make sure you have some references to hand, I find this helps when applying fiddly schemes like this.
I've also done some work on the Kubelwagen, namely give it a base coat of German Yellow (a mix of Tamiya Dark Yellow and Buff).
I will be doing the Color Modulation technique for this vehicle and perhaps will apply some field camouflage.
Thanks for viewing/reading.
-Karl187-
Hisham
Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Armorama: 6,363 posts
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Armorama: 6,363 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 - 09:13 AM UTC
Things are shaping up nicely with this vignette.. I like your figures, and that dot pea pattern is looking good. I don't envy you trying to highlight and shade it, though
I, too, second Mauro's idea of writing a tutorial. I feel that a couple of nicely painted figures beside any vehicle really bring it to life.. so, being able to paint them would certainly help!!
Thanks for sharing
Hisham
I, too, second Mauro's idea of writing a tutorial. I feel that a couple of nicely painted figures beside any vehicle really bring it to life.. so, being able to paint them would certainly help!!
Thanks for sharing
Hisham
Posted: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 - 09:24 AM UTC
Hi Karl. Its the first chance Ive had to drop in here for a while, and when seeing the images for the first time tonight, my first thoughts were exactly the same as Hisham´s. One soldier looking down, ties it all together rather than having two scenes; top and bottom.
On such a small base, I wouldn´t consider it good composition to not link the levels. I know it means some extra work, but you´ve got to live with it when finished, so Id recommend doíng the work now. ;-)
Great choice of figures though, and the wedgie looks great. Never been so much into these, but this is definately one of the better ones Ive seen.
On such a small base, I wouldn´t consider it good composition to not link the levels. I know it means some extra work, but you´ve got to live with it when finished, so Id recommend doíng the work now. ;-)
Great choice of figures though, and the wedgie looks great. Never been so much into these, but this is definately one of the better ones Ive seen.
Posted: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 - 09:31 AM UTC
Hi again Karl. Another thing I forgot mention, if you dont already have it, I really recommend Bill Chillstroms book called "Converting and Detailing Plastic Figures". Its a bible for work like you are attempting now. Written in a very pedagogic way and by the time you´ve finished reading, you´ll feel work like this should be easy. Cant recommend it enough. It can found easily enough on Ebay.UK.
Posted: Wednesday, September 07, 2011 - 12:11 AM UTC
Hisham- thanks for the comments mate! When I'm done with this I'll gather together a couple of German figures and do a tutorial.
Frank- thanks for stopping by and taking a look. I enjoy converting figures whenever I can so I think I'll go looking for that book. Its always handy to have stuff like that in the bookcase! As for the looking down thing- I understand completely what you mean. The reason I haven't changed one of the heads to be looking down is because I'm not at all sure whether the sculpt of the body will pan out yet. It could end up a total mess (I hope not but sculpting is so tricky) and not suitable and it would be struck from the scene so there'd then be no point in having a figure looking down. What I think I will do now though is get a head ready to replace on one of the figures (the guy with the STG-44 probably) or at least attempt to remove the one already on so I can change the look if things go as planned.
Cheers guys!
Frank- thanks for stopping by and taking a look. I enjoy converting figures whenever I can so I think I'll go looking for that book. Its always handy to have stuff like that in the bookcase! As for the looking down thing- I understand completely what you mean. The reason I haven't changed one of the heads to be looking down is because I'm not at all sure whether the sculpt of the body will pan out yet. It could end up a total mess (I hope not but sculpting is so tricky) and not suitable and it would be struck from the scene so there'd then be no point in having a figure looking down. What I think I will do now though is get a head ready to replace on one of the figures (the guy with the STG-44 probably) or at least attempt to remove the one already on so I can change the look if things go as planned.
Cheers guys!
AgentG
Nevada, United States
Joined: December 21, 2008
KitMaker: 1,109 posts
Armorama: 1,095 posts
Joined: December 21, 2008
KitMaker: 1,109 posts
Armorama: 1,095 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 07, 2011 - 09:52 AM UTC
Sorry for the delay, but that made perfect sense, thank you!
I just couldn't see all that work be hidden by some strange technique, especially one I'd have thought of........
G
I just couldn't see all that work be hidden by some strange technique, especially one I'd have thought of........
G
Posted: Wednesday, September 07, 2011 - 11:36 AM UTC
Quoted Text
The reason I haven't changed one of the heads to be looking down is because I'm not at all sure whether the sculpt of the body will pan out yet.
Hi Karl. Does it matter when the kubelwagen is already there? As its part of the wedgie, IMO it should be tied in with whatever is used on the upper level.
You´d nearly think I was trying to make life difficult
Posted: Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 01:36 AM UTC
Hey, no worries Frank- feedback like that is always great and I actually realised it would be good to have someone looking down at the Kubelwagen even if the body wasn't there, as you said.
Luckily the head was only superglued onto the figure so it just snapped off very cleanly. I was thinking of replacing it entirely but the expressions on the Hornet heads I have don't really suit so I decided to keep the Alpine head and do some modification- I cut some of the neck away and mounted it on the end of a straight bit of paper clip attached to the body. Then today I put some Magic Sculp over the area, mouted the figure and blended the Magic Sculp in to represent the new neck area. Its drying now, hopefully I'll have some pics later today !
Luckily the head was only superglued onto the figure so it just snapped off very cleanly. I was thinking of replacing it entirely but the expressions on the Hornet heads I have don't really suit so I decided to keep the Alpine head and do some modification- I cut some of the neck away and mounted it on the end of a straight bit of paper clip attached to the body. Then today I put some Magic Sculp over the area, mouted the figure and blended the Magic Sculp in to represent the new neck area. Its drying now, hopefully I'll have some pics later today !