Finished the Opel I have begun with a model that I bought last year. Excellent Trumpeter's model I have made in a day. I don't likes the vinilic tracks so, I'm making a resin copy. Boxes are made in scracth.



Regards. Pedro.

I look forward to another pleasant surprise

Greetings

I too

Nice build Pedro, I just bought this kit. I look forward to seeing the finished product. Your scratch built boxes look great.

Pedro,

It's always a pleasure to see your creations. I recall a member of our local club building this vehicle a number of months ago. He expressed some disappointment with the fit of some of the parts and especially with the tracks. Your boxes look fantastic, do you have any images of their construction? Can't wait to see how your new tracks turn out.

Cheers,
Jan

Hi Pedro

I'm waiting to see what you do with this one - I have built one Trumpy Stug, and found the tracks were way too long, which is much more preferable to being too short, as happens on some manufacturer's kits.

Whats the plan for this Stug ? figures ? diorama ? unusual camouflage ?

cheers
Neil

Hi Pedro,

Looking forward to see it painted.

P.A.

When I finish the tracks, I will make a step by step about tracks and boxes.

In this occasion I haven't a rare model although I can to hear opinions and suggestions. I have seen a lot of books but I haven't found any rare picture about this model.

I haven't choosen painting, markings, etc. Any suggestion? All comments are welcome. My ears are open.

Regards.

Pedro.

I follow with my Stug. Tracks and boxes on the model.





You can see a step by step in my blog.

Regards. Pedro.

Hello Pedro,

great you see with a new kit on the workbench. But i you must do some corrections with this kit. Trumpeter makes some mistakes. But wich one it was... i no longer knows exactly.

A good reference is this: http://www.stug.ch/stug/stug3/stug3e/

Greetings

Alex

Pedro,

Very nice progress. Those tracks look amazing and I can't help but ask if you have any pictures of how you made them. Anyway, can't wait to see more of this project progress.

Cheers,
Jan

Pedro,

I visited your blog. Very nice tips by the way, I recommend it to all.

P.A.

Pedro, the Stug is really progressing nicely. I read your Blog and while I still don't understand how to make tracks, the boxes look like something I could try. I also like the PE frame that you made for the back. Was that part of a package or did you make it from metal strips?

Thanks,
AJ

Alex, Thanks for the link, I have made some modifications.
Jan, in my blog you have a step by step.
Alexander, blog allow to me to use big pictures and to work less with these.
AJ. I have change the text. I have made the rear using metal strips

Well, I think the model is ready to paint. I have made some modifications but if someone see any mistake, please tell to me before painting.

I want to paint the model in winter but I haven't any picture and markings about this model. Some help or suggestion will be welcome.




Regards. Pedro.

Hey Pedro

Are you on Facebook?
Ther I can show you some Pics of my StuG in wintercamo.
I like your StuG. Looks very nice with the stowage.
Tracks in the front are great.

regards Daniel

Hi Pedro. Nice work. The tracks and stowage look great. Looking forward to seeing some paint on it.
Tim

Pedro,

This build keeps on getting better and better. I love all those added detail pieces, especially the effect on the front.

Regards,
AJ

Daniel, I'm not in Facebook. I will send you a private message.

Some modellers tell to me that, in front, is more convenient to put two wheels because they are a better protection for the tank. No normally boxes and canvas with winter paint in Russian. I added more tracks too.
This is the new configuration. What is your opinion?


Regards. Pedro.

@PedroA – Pedro,

You have a great start on your Stug III. I have one of the earlier Trumpy Stugs in the stash but will be using that for a conversion. Nice kits. I have used styrene strip for railing in my past builds but the photo-etch strips are to scale and is far stronger than styrene. What adhesive did you use to attach the railing with?

Great idea with the cast copied tracks – saw your step-by-step for making them in resin over at your blog spot. Are you using a resin with a longer set up time for this type of casting? The boxes are also a good idea as you can make more copies, as you need them for other models.

Pedro, sorry I’m late on this one. I scanned a few photographs of the Stug III Ausf E in winter camouflage. Hope these will be of some use to you.


This Stug III Ausf E photographed in Russia late 1942 with applied paste white wash. The markings were usually masked off leaving some of the base color showing through. Note the spare wheels up front along the side of the superstructure. This was a common field applied modification leaving the rear area free of the spare wheels for the bulky stowage. The spare wheels also have the white wash applied to them including the tires.


This is another example of the white wash being used to camouflage the vehicle. Note the extra spare track links on the rear of the vehicle used to protect the stowage. This vehicle also has had the same field modification for storing the spare wheels up front along the sides of the superstructure. On this vehicle the spare wheels are unpainted with the white wash paste. This unit applied the names of big cats to their vehicles - Löwe (Lion), Puma, and Leopard.


Due to shortages of supplies most vehicles sported just the snow for camouflage and other used white bed, table or blanket sheets for camouflage. Of interest is the extra long extension tubes (sunshades) applied to the telescope sights to cut down on the snows glare.

There appear to be no set rule for applying the white wash paste to the vehicles. Stripes, spots, cloud patterns and ‘X’s were used to conceal the vehicle from the enemies ground and air power. The gun cleaning rods and tools seem not to have been painted over in most cases.

Hope this helps,
~ Eddy

Thanks Eddy for your comments about my kfz 385 and these pictures.

To attach the railing, I use cyanoacrylate, although with metallic parts, I solder a piece of wire

Finally, I have use the third picture but with whitewash. I have used lacquer technique.
The base with matt varnish.

Ready to begin with the weathering.


Regards.

Pedro.

@PedroA – Pedro,

That is an impressive winter whitewash you’ve painted. Could you explain a little about this lacquer technique you use for achieving the realistic whitewash on your vehicle.

And thanks for the explanation for attaching your brass parts on the Kfz 385.

~ Eddy

A great job on this little guy. I really like the extra track and road wheels on the front. Have always liked the look of that. Even though a judge one time took points off one of my entries because, "Never seen that before. Don't think they would do that." But yours looks great.

Eddy, over the base, you apply a generous layer of lacquer. When the lacquer has dried you apply the white layer. When the white layer has dried, you begin to remove this using a brush with water. Be carefully.

Marc, the judge was wrong. This, was used normally by German forces.

Two hour playing with the airbrush. Four basic colours, German grey (XF-63), black (XF-1), brown (XF-64) and yellow (XF-3) mixed between they.



Regards.

Pedro.

Very succesful painting. I think more mud on horizontal surfaces (from the crew boots) would go well.
Whitewash vehicles are still terra nicognita for me.

P.A.

Pedro,

VERY impressive Stug you are working on!

I really like your paint and whitewash finish, all of which make for a realistic finish for a braille scale subject.

Will you add some "snow" as shown in Eddie's reference images?

Your blog is really informative, too!