Painting Booth.
I was in the market trying to buy a painting booth and I noticed that the Testors was $500.00.
I decided to make my own.
I used 1/2 plastic sheets and an old PC fan.
I added led lights and a filter.
Check it out
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Painting Booth
horsetank
Florida, United States
Joined: January 19, 2011
KitMaker: 113 posts
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Joined: January 19, 2011
KitMaker: 113 posts
Armorama: 37 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 12, 2011 - 01:32 PM UTC
Posted: Saturday, November 12, 2011 - 03:31 PM UTC
Nice looking booth. Where did you get the lights, I like those....
Posted: Saturday, November 12, 2011 - 10:56 PM UTC
I'm looking at building a booth again myself and this looks like a great way of doing it!
I've built a few booths, but nothing with the exhaust directly in the path of the spray... due to lack of space. I've needed to use a stronger fans for the other booths, but I'm wondering if the fan you have chosen will be strong enough, but it is just to change to something stronger...
I've built a few booths, but nothing with the exhaust directly in the path of the spray... due to lack of space. I've needed to use a stronger fans for the other booths, but I'm wondering if the fan you have chosen will be strong enough, but it is just to change to something stronger...
horsetank
Florida, United States
Joined: January 19, 2011
KitMaker: 113 posts
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Joined: January 19, 2011
KitMaker: 113 posts
Armorama: 37 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 12, 2011 - 11:56 PM UTC
My brother works with a sign company and that's what they use now on plastic signs now
horsetank
Florida, United States
Joined: January 19, 2011
KitMaker: 113 posts
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Joined: January 19, 2011
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Armorama: 37 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 13, 2011 - 12:03 AM UTC
Nutone make a bath extractor fan that you can get at Ace Hardware store for about $18.00 to $20.00 that its more powerful than mine
ophelia53
Missouri, United States
Joined: March 10, 2010
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Joined: March 10, 2010
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Posted: Sunday, November 13, 2011 - 01:20 AM UTC
I also am going to be building a booth soon (over fall break) and am wondering if I should use a PSC fan or get one of these extractor fans. Why would one use the extractor fan over a PSC fan? Cost concerns, or some other reason? I'm not sure the extractor fan would be strong enough, either....
Posted: Sunday, November 13, 2011 - 02:14 AM UTC
I am using an overhead stove unit, and the fan works great. There is even a charcoal filter if you are not venting outside.
horsetank
Florida, United States
Joined: January 19, 2011
KitMaker: 113 posts
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Joined: January 19, 2011
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Posted: Sunday, November 13, 2011 - 08:13 AM UTC
No the PC fan I use in reverse to extract the paint overflow
The Bath extractor fan is another option in case you don't have a PC fan
The Bath extractor fan is another option in case you don't have a PC fan
Posted: Sunday, November 13, 2011 - 08:56 AM UTC
You have to be very careful with bath extractor fans, they have open motors, and if you are using flammable paint, you risk fire or explosion. You need to use a closed motor, no open motor brushes.
imatanker
Maine, United States
Joined: February 11, 2011
KitMaker: 1,654 posts
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Posted: Sunday, November 13, 2011 - 10:20 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Kev,you are right about the motor . Dave,are you planning to use the booth inside?I assumeyou will be venting outside?JeffYou have to be very careful with bath extractor fans, they have open motors, and if you are using flammable paint, you risk fire or explosion. You need to use a closed motor, no open motor brushes.
Posted: Sunday, November 13, 2011 - 12:04 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I am using an overhead stove unit, and the fan works great. There is even a charcoal filter if you are not venting outside.
I'm using the same type of fan.
ProfessorP
Minnesota, United States
Joined: February 20, 2007
KitMaker: 339 posts
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Joined: February 20, 2007
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Posted: Sunday, November 13, 2011 - 12:09 PM UTC
I used a GE 70CFM bathroom fan on mine. It uses a brushless design:
I tried a 50CFM before that and it barely pulled enough air to hold a sheet of paper securely against the filter so I'm not sure how effective that PC fan will be at extracting fumes. The GE cost less than $20 at Home Depot so if you find that your PC fan isn't working for you, give something like this a try.
I really like the design of yours and it looks very well constructed. I went for the cheap and portable route with mine.
I tried a 50CFM before that and it barely pulled enough air to hold a sheet of paper securely against the filter so I'm not sure how effective that PC fan will be at extracting fumes. The GE cost less than $20 at Home Depot so if you find that your PC fan isn't working for you, give something like this a try.
I really like the design of yours and it looks very well constructed. I went for the cheap and portable route with mine.
Posted: Sunday, November 13, 2011 - 12:27 PM UTC
Here is a pic of my set up, the fan pulls 110-130 CFM, I use a air filter and charcoal filter and it exhausts at the back, I typically only use acryllics.
Posted: Sunday, November 13, 2011 - 11:51 PM UTC
Use a Fan with the motor outside the air stream and duct to the out side.
Or you may well find your self outside!
Or you may well find your self outside!
horsetank
Florida, United States
Joined: January 19, 2011
KitMaker: 113 posts
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Joined: January 19, 2011
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Posted: Monday, November 14, 2011 - 12:05 PM UTC
That's great I was going to use a stove hood originally until I decided on the big PC fan
Posted: Monday, November 14, 2011 - 01:00 PM UTC
The biggest issue with PC fans is finding one that will move enough air. I did the research when I build my booth, most PC fans only move about 50-70 CFM, unless you buy the very high end PC gaming fans, they move about 90-110 CFM. For an airbrush booth you want over a 100 CFM, close to 150 CFM would be better. The overhead stove fan I bought does about 110-130 CFM, and since I was only using acryllics that was fine for me. Now if you add any duct for exhausting, it will reduce the CFM of the fan, just something to keep in mind.
Silantra
Putrajaya, Malaysia
Joined: March 04, 2004
KitMaker: 2,511 posts
Armorama: 913 posts
Joined: March 04, 2004
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Armorama: 913 posts
Posted: Monday, November 14, 2011 - 09:35 PM UTC
maybe i could input my 2 cents here...since iwork mostly with ventilation system
to increase the performance, maybe u should install a board just in front of the fan face intake.... as illustrated in this diagram :
the board should be sturdy enough so it can withstand the pressure... the distance x shouldnt be that wide...maybe less than 2-3 inches will do...
so that the air flow will be from the top and bottom (but u can also design the air to flow from bottom, top, left n right)...
since flowrate, Q is equal to velocity of air x Area of opening, or Q = VA , by introducing the wall/board it will served as baffle thus reducing the area of the opening... from the equation, if A is reduced, Q is also reduced (constant velocity)...thus Q of the fan will also reduced... Q=cfm... and since Q is reduced, low rate cfm fan can be still produced best result... this is simple innovation i just found out...
i hope u understand this simple maths... dont want sound like in science class
my 2 cents
Zaidi
to increase the performance, maybe u should install a board just in front of the fan face intake.... as illustrated in this diagram :
the board should be sturdy enough so it can withstand the pressure... the distance x shouldnt be that wide...maybe less than 2-3 inches will do...
so that the air flow will be from the top and bottom (but u can also design the air to flow from bottom, top, left n right)...
since flowrate, Q is equal to velocity of air x Area of opening, or Q = VA , by introducing the wall/board it will served as baffle thus reducing the area of the opening... from the equation, if A is reduced, Q is also reduced (constant velocity)...thus Q of the fan will also reduced... Q=cfm... and since Q is reduced, low rate cfm fan can be still produced best result... this is simple innovation i just found out...
i hope u understand this simple maths... dont want sound like in science class
my 2 cents
Zaidi
Posted: Monday, November 14, 2011 - 10:24 PM UTC
Zaidi!! Awesome knowledge!! You might have helped me solve a problem I have been having. I was thinking of ways to make a plenum and this was the perfect way!! Thanks!!
Silantra
Putrajaya, Malaysia
Joined: March 04, 2004
KitMaker: 2,511 posts
Armorama: 913 posts
Joined: March 04, 2004
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Armorama: 913 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 15, 2011 - 01:11 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Zaidi!! Awesome knowledge!! You might have helped me solve a problem I have been having. I was thinking of ways to make a plenum and this was the perfect way!! Thanks!!
no problemo...glad that i could help. The only thing that you have to pay a bit attention is the distance between the plenum and the bottom (or top) of the hood surface. The smaller the distance, the higher velocity it will create. If the velocity is too strong i will suck all particles including paint... but this is not really a major concern..make sure it's just between 2-3 inches depending on your booth size and your fan flowrate.
Zaidi
Posted: Tuesday, November 15, 2011 - 04:03 AM UTC
I'll have to re-work my plans now! I just fried my fan... somehow it arced on me!!! It was too strong anyway!
Thanks again for the tip, I was actually wondering if that may be a possibility. 2-3 inches sounds perfect...
Thanks again for the tip, I was actually wondering if that may be a possibility. 2-3 inches sounds perfect...
PantherF
Indiana, United States
Joined: June 10, 2005
KitMaker: 6,188 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, November 15, 2011 - 06:03 AM UTC
It's ironic that this thread is to appear as I am waiting on an over the range fan hood from Lowes I found at a great price. I got the idea from this link http://pages.interlog.com/~ask/scale/tips/booth.htm and will follow most of the way it's layed out. It DOES vent outside so that was what I was looking for and with all the proper filters I don't believe there will be any risk for most of these motors are safety rated.
At 190 CFM and 160 under the fan, the motor should be powerful enough to vent through the 7" hose at a quick rate. Plus, I'm not a heavy painter, just a little at a time because this will be indoors with a window a few feet away.
I've put up with letting the cars and weather determine my paint schedule so it will be so strange to be able to paint whenever, especially since I've had all the equipment for a few years now. I move slowly anymore.
~ Jeff
At 190 CFM and 160 under the fan, the motor should be powerful enough to vent through the 7" hose at a quick rate. Plus, I'm not a heavy painter, just a little at a time because this will be indoors with a window a few feet away.
I've put up with letting the cars and weather determine my paint schedule so it will be so strange to be able to paint whenever, especially since I've had all the equipment for a few years now. I move slowly anymore.
~ Jeff
Silantra
Putrajaya, Malaysia
Joined: March 04, 2004
KitMaker: 2,511 posts
Armorama: 913 posts
Joined: March 04, 2004
KitMaker: 2,511 posts
Armorama: 913 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 - 04:33 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I'll have to re-work my plans now! I just fried my fan... somehow it arced on me!!! It was too strong anyway!
Thanks again for the tip, I was actually wondering if that may be a possibility. 2-3 inches sounds perfect...
let me know the result...with photos...would love to see the design...
and if u can access a airvelocity meter or anemometer than u can measure the air velocity ... so that we can compare with the recommended velocity... gambate!
Posted: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 - 04:43 AM UTC
Zaidi,
I think we are on the same wavelength...
I think we are on the same wavelength...
melonhead
Wisconsin, United States
Joined: July 29, 2010
KitMaker: 662 posts
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Joined: July 29, 2010
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Armorama: 457 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 - 10:50 AM UTC
Quoted Text
maybe i could input my 2 cents here...since iwork mostly with ventilation system
to increase the performance, maybe u should install a board just in front of the fan face intake.... as illustrated in this diagram :
the board should be sturdy enough so it can withstand the pressure... the distance x shouldnt be that wide...maybe less than 2-3 inches will do...
so that the air flow will be from the top and bottom (but u can also design the air to flow from bottom, top, left n right)...
since flowrate, Q is equal to velocity of air x Area of opening, or Q = VA , by introducing the wall/board it will served as baffle thus reducing the area of the opening... from the equation, if A is reduced, Q is also reduced (constant velocity)...thus Q of the fan will also reduced... Q=cfm... and since Q is reduced, low rate cfm fan can be still produced best result... this is simple innovation i just found out...
i hope u understand this simple maths... dont want sound like in science class
my 2 cents
Zaidi
although i understand the logic, the concern comes in with the baffle and the location of the fan....wheres the filter?
Silantra
Putrajaya, Malaysia
Joined: March 04, 2004
KitMaker: 2,511 posts
Armorama: 913 posts
Joined: March 04, 2004
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Armorama: 913 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 - 12:59 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Zaidi,
I think we are on the same wavelength...
cool...subarashi desu!!!
right now i'm away from home .... i also will modify my design... and it's been way to long that i ever touch any models...