So I have a Dragon M4A1 76 (W) "Operation Cobra" Sherman in the stash that I'm considering starting (like I need something else on the bench) as a companion to the M4 I am wrapping up. In reading Zaloga's piece on this kit in the Osprey 76mm Sherman modelling book it mentions adding pop rivets to the bogie wheels using the Waldron Sub Miniature punch set, but those punch sets are (a) hard to find, and (b) obscenely expensive and beyond my means right at the moment. Any thoughts on alternative means of adding this detail? I've never had much luck doing the "salami slicing" of stretched sprue, as I have trouble getting consistant thickness of the slices, plus where these would be added would preclude sanding down to an even thickness. Or is this getting too far into the weeds detail-wise and something that could be dispensed with?

Are you sure the rivets aren't already there somewhere Chuck?
ISTR that one or two manufacturers have them moulded onto the main sprue edges.
If not that kit then maybe one of your others?

I know Tasca provides them as a line of rivets on the sprue, to be shaved off and applied, but I also know that a little caked mud in the wheel rims hides the missing rivets nicely!

If you really want to make them the hard way, you could drill shallow holes, insert some rod, and clip it off a little "proud" to represent the rivet. It's a PITA, but easier than shaving identical slices of rod to apply. There's a dozen on each wheel to do...

Good luck!

Tom

Try Archer rivet decals, or dabs of acrylic texture paint.

BTW, they aren't "pop" rivets - I don't know why Steve called them that. "Pop" rivets are a brand of blind tubular detachable mandrel rivets. The ones on a VVSS wheel are are conventional solid rivets.

KL

Thanks for the reply guys; after a good night's sleep to rest the creative side of my brain (LOL) and steered by your suggestions I remembered that in my stash on the model railroad side of the supply closet I have some HO scale NBW casting that may do the trick once I nip the protruding bolt part off; will check later today after college football is done to see if they are the right size, and if my eyesight and sanity are up to the challenge, LOL

If you want constant thicknes salami sliced rivet discs do the following: Super glue some 0.005" thickness sheet styrene to the side of a single edge razor blade to act as a spacer. Find something that can act as a abutment block that has a 90 degree angle. Take your 0.015 diameter rods and put them up against the abutment block. Then cut down with your single edge razor blade, with the spacer in place and against the abutment block, on top of the rods. The spacer will give consistent thickness to your salami discs. After the first cut, remove the discs, move the rods against the abutment block again and cut your second set of discs. Continue until you have enough.

You can alter your disc thickness depending on the thickness of the spacer you glue to the razor blade. Try it out.

The rivets are so small that they disapear under a coat of mud, if its any comfort. Such a detail isnt worth the time in my opinion. Id rather invest that time with that special lady (and this is coming from a guy who loves MK tracks)

Kurt, that was the ticket: in the very same chapter in the Osprey book Mr. Zaloga mentions using dimensional acrylic T-shirt paint for adding roundness to PE periscope brush guards ( he also mentions making rivets with it), so made a trip to Hobby Lobby, picked up a bottle, and it worked like a charm. Thanks for all the input, gents!