Matt,

What colour is the floor around the base of the turret? It looks gold on my screen. If it is you need to consult your references regarding the interior colours for German vehicles. Especially if you are entering it in a competition.

Darryl

It's brass. I don't have any color photos of the interior, so I went by CMK's instructions. I admit, this doesn't seem like the right color. But, like I said, I have no color references for the interior.

Happy new year Matt!!!

Gary

I've decided to forge ahead. Here are some more progress photos:



I will be adding a wash of light rust and make it a little heavier on the top half of the exhaust.




I have also repainted the floor the same color as the interior. Once I have finished, I will post a photo.

Hey Matt,

Great to see you back at it! ill be following your build.

Gary

Matt,

On the exhaust, remember that the lower two pieces just cradle the muffler, and would be the vehicle base color, not rusty.

Also, you've got some noticeable seam lines in the idlers and those bumpstops.

Thanks for the comments.
Jerry: I'll get on that right away. It was a 2am project and I didn't have the clear headedness to sand them more. Besides that, I have arthritis in my right had and couldn't continue. I intend the hand paint the exhaust arms and, then, apply a whitewash. So, this won't be too noticeable.
Here are some more progress photos.



There are subtle differences in the rust here. They don't show up in photos.

That last photo brings up another bit...

Thin out that exhaust pipe. It's exhaust tubing, so very thin wall.

I'll get out my pin vise and hollow it a bit more.

Matt:

Things are looking GOOD with the ol' G!

Yes, your exhaust pipe needs thinning! I've attached a pic of my recent build of an old Tamiya Wirbelwind kit - the "fix" I used was quite simple: ream the pipe out with a nr.11 knife! Also drilled thru into the muffler can to show "connection"(there would actually be a baffle-screen down in there, but I skipped that detail ) paint it sooty-black with maybe a little grey dusting of pigment to show a hot pipe and you'll be in great "aus-puff" shape!

PS: I believe those two scoop-like bracket-things under that muffler are armor covers over the manifolds leading into that muffler. The muffler is supported by the bands from the upper flange down and under to the lower on the back plate. Those scoops would get pretty hot, so maybe they could be partially blackened to show scorched paint, and a little burnt & rust adjacent to the muffler would maybe be good?

Bob

Thanks for that Bob! I haven't given that a thought until you mentioned it...just one more of those details I've been overlooking

Glad to see some more progress on this one Matt, looking forward to the next installment!

Got to looking at my CMK interior last night. Turns out it is for the ausf. H and J, not the G. I won't be doing any more interior work, until I get the Verlinded set.
Thanks for the heads up on the brackets. I have already hollow the exhaust pipe out and painted it with MM exhaust. Once the white wash has been applied, I will add some MM burnt metal aroud the tip with a darkened weathered black to represent soot.

Here, I've added chains to the front shackles. The pe ones looked horrible and are very fragile.

The hollowed out and painted exhaust pipe.

The trimmed wheels.

The fender supports. This was a major pain in the . I use two 1/2" razor blades to fold my pe. 6" pieces are very difficult.

Matt;

Real chains are the WAY to go! OK, the real ONLY way to go, IMO. Whenever I try those PE things, they just kink up and look aweful!

I think you may want to re-arrange your chains, however... it looks to me like you attached them to the "lead end" of the pin - which would make the chain pull thru the shackle when the pin is pulled out? I think they attach to the bent-end of the pin

Bob

That's an easy fix.
My biggest problem is with the fender supports. In the instructions the outer supports are attached to the lower hull. However, the next photo shows that they are attached to the upper hull. The fender is too small to fit the lower hull, but the picture clearly shows them being attached to the upper hull with the cross members attached to the lower hull. This really has me scratching my head.

Some more progress.










Still building. May be a late night.

Hi Matt,

Nice job on the PE! definatly NOT one of my favorite things to do. looking good man!

Gary

I will have to agree with Gary. Me and photo etch are still trying to work out some sort of agreement. I think your doing quite fine however.

As far as the interior goes, I say be kind to yourself. Assuming that you are not allowing the tank to open up fully to see every last detail, I think that there is a little more room for artistic license to come into play. The key there is to create more the impression of depth and reality. I would not break the bank trying to do that.

Wait...what am I saying. I've got a months rent tied up in a Tiger I and PZ IV that will take me the next 2 years to finish...

Primed with Krylon Rudddy Brown with base coat of Behr Light Copper. I got a bunch of house paint after my mom moved. Quarts of Tamiya substitutes.

As always it is a pleasure to see your work Matt!
I enjoy learning the tools of the trade following you and Gary. Nice job, keep it coming.

Thank you for the kind comments, Phil.
I have a question. Would a recognition flag/panel be appropriate?

Here is the base hull. I will be doing a whitewash.
The upper and lower hull, along with the transmission cover is dry-fitted





I will be starting the interior, next. I will use Verlinden's interior with TWS's engine and compartment.
Since I added a new album, the rest of the photos can be seen here:
http://s832.photobucket.com/albums/zz242/capnluki/Panzer%20IV/

Very nice camo!

Phil

Hey Matt

FINNALY! The long awaited update. glad to see you back with the Pz. you gonna do the hairspray technique right? if you do can we get a bit of a SBS. ive never done it before and would love some info. Thanks for shareing Matt.

Gary

I may use the hairspray technique, but am leaning towards another. I intend to flat coat the kit with MM clear flat enamel. Then, I can scrape away the water-based paint with a dampened brush or cocktail stick.